Installing a battery charger - Revision history

MIK at 19:38, 1 February 2019

2019-02-01T19:38:44Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 15:38, 1 February 2019
Line 10:		Line 10:
	====Here we go====		====Here we go====

	Most people should have a battery ~~tender~~ for their cycles. Why, you ask? Well, motorcycles have very small batteries (you may have noticed this). They have a much smaller capacity than their automobile counterparts. These batteries can discharge over time if not maintained on a battery ~~tender~~, especially during the winter months, when the cold results in a more dramatic/quicker discharge. Also, the stator (alternator) on a cycle doesn't recharge the battery as quickly as an automobile one does.		Most people should have a battery charger for their cycles. Why, you ask? Well, motorcycles have very small batteries (you may have noticed this). They have a much smaller capacity than their automobile counterparts. These batteries can discharge over time if not maintained on a battery charger, especially during the winter months, when the cold results in a more dramatic/quicker discharge. Also, the stator (alternator) on a cycle doesn't recharge the battery as quickly as an automobile one does.

	This tutorial will walk you through the steps of installing a battery ~~tender~~ with ring connectors. The model used here is the [http://www.yuasabatteries.com/chargers.asp Yuasa 900 mA] battery charger, which costs about $35.00. It's readily available online or locally at Wal-Mart, automotive stores, etc. This (and most other) units come with both a ring (permanent) and clip end. We recommend the ring end, as it's safer and easier to use. If you have additional motorcycles, you can buy additional Yuasa ring ends for about $7.00 each. It's easy to install one on each motorcycle and move the ~~tender~~ between them on a rotating basis.		This tutorial will walk you through the steps of installing a battery charger with ring connectors. The model used here is the [http://www.yuasabatteries.com/chargers.asp Yuasa 900 mA] battery charger, which costs about $35.00. It's readily available online or locally at Wal-Mart, automotive stores, etc. This (and most other) units come with both a ring (permanent) and clip end. We recommend the ring end, as it's safer and easier to use. If you have additional motorcycles, you can buy additional Yuasa ring ends for about $7.00 each. It's easy to install one on each motorcycle and move the charger between them on a rotating basis.

	Umm... our photographer was still working on his macro technique when these photos were taken. We feel that you can figure everything out, anyway.		Umm... our photographer was still working on his macro technique when these photos were taken. We feel that you can figure everything out, anyway.
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	[[Image:Yuasa_13.jpg\|150px]]		[[Image:Yuasa_13.jpg\|150px]]

	Notice that the positive side has a RED boot/cover? You have two choices for installation of the POSITIVE (RED) ring connector: either on the outside of the red boot, or from within the red boot. If it's warm when you do this you may be able to push the POSITIVE ring connector through the boot sleeve with the other wires. However, if it's cold the rubber boot will be very stiff, and this won't work. So, cut off the ring connector and then feed the ~~tender~~'s POSITIVE wire through the red boot. You'll then need to crimp a new ring connector to the wire. If you want the easy way (not the preferred way), then you can place the bolt through the RED ring outside the red boot and then through the cycle's POSITIVE connector.		Notice that the positive side has a RED boot/cover? You have two choices for installation of the POSITIVE (RED) ring connector: either on the outside of the red boot, or from within the red boot. If it's warm when you do this you may be able to push the POSITIVE ring connector through the boot sleeve with the other wires. However, if it's cold the rubber boot will be very stiff, and this won't work. So, cut off the ring connector and then feed the charger's POSITIVE wire through the red boot. You'll then need to crimp a new ring connector to the wire. If you want the easy way (not the preferred way), then you can place the bolt through the RED ring outside the red boot and then through the cycle's POSITIVE connector.

	Then, insert the bolt into the positive terminal post. You'll find out that the bolt is too short to reach the square nut. The nut falls down when the terminal bolt is loosened.		Then, insert the bolt into the positive terminal post. You'll find out that the bolt is too short to reach the square nut. The nut falls down when the terminal bolt is loosened.

MIK: MIK moved page Installing a battery tender to Installing a battery charger

2019-02-01T19:37:10Z

MIK moved page Installing a battery tender to Installing a battery charger

← Older revision		Revision as of 15:37, 1 February 2019
(No difference)

Bokonon at 07:26, 8 November 2008

2008-11-08T07:26:43Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 03:26, 8 November 2008
Line 72:		Line 72:
	Then, insert the bolt into the positive terminal post. You'll find out that the bolt is too short to reach the square nut. The nut falls down when the terminal bolt is loosened.		Then, insert the bolt into the positive terminal post. You'll find out that the bolt is too short to reach the square nut. The nut falls down when the terminal bolt is loosened.

	[[image:715852.gif~~\|150px~~]]		[[image:715852.gif]]

	This is why we removed the side panels, to provide access to the nut from under the frame. Use a flat head screwdriver to 'lift' the nut up high enough to screw the bolt back in all the way. The terminals are made of lead, which is very soft. Don't get carried away with the screwdriver.		This is why we removed the side panels, to provide access to the nut from under the frame. Use a flat head screwdriver to 'lift' the nut up high enough to screw the bolt back in all the way. The terminals are made of lead, which is very soft. Don't get carried away with the screwdriver.

Bokonon: /* Here we go */

2008-11-08T07:25:23Z

Here we go

← Older revision		Revision as of 03:25, 8 November 2008
Line 12:		Line 12:
	Most people should have a battery tender for their cycles. Why, you ask? Well, motorcycles have very small batteries (you may have noticed this). They have a much smaller capacity than their automobile counterparts. These batteries can discharge over time if not maintained on a battery tender, especially during the winter months, when the cold results in a more dramatic/quicker discharge. Also, the stator (alternator) on a cycle doesn't recharge the battery as quickly as an automobile one does.		Most people should have a battery tender for their cycles. Why, you ask? Well, motorcycles have very small batteries (you may have noticed this). They have a much smaller capacity than their automobile counterparts. These batteries can discharge over time if not maintained on a battery tender, especially during the winter months, when the cold results in a more dramatic/quicker discharge. Also, the stator (alternator) on a cycle doesn't recharge the battery as quickly as an automobile one does.

	This tutorial will walk you through the steps of installing a battery tender with ring connectors. The model used here is the Yuasa 900 mA battery charger, which costs about $35.00. It's readily available ~~[http://www.motorcyclebatteriesusa.com/battery-chargers-details.asp?battery=122~~ online] or locally at Wal-Mart, automotive stores, etc. This (and most other) units come with both a ring (permanent) and clip end. We recommend the ring end, as it's safer and easier to use. If you have additional motorcycles, you can buy additional Yuasa ring ends for about $7.00 each. It's easy to install one on each motorcycle and move the tender between them on a rotating basis.		This tutorial will walk you through the steps of installing a battery tender with ring connectors. The model used here is the [http://www.yuasabatteries.com/chargers.asp Yuasa 900 mA] battery charger, which costs about $35.00. It's readily available online or locally at Wal-Mart, automotive stores, etc. This (and most other) units come with both a ring (permanent) and clip end. We recommend the ring end, as it's safer and easier to use. If you have additional motorcycles, you can buy additional Yuasa ring ends for about $7.00 each. It's easy to install one on each motorcycle and move the tender between them on a rotating basis.

	Umm... our photographer was still working on his macro technique when these photos were taken. We feel that you can figure everything out, anyway.		Umm... our photographer was still working on his macro technique when these photos were taken. We feel that you can figure everything out, anyway.
Line 70:		Line 70:
	Notice that the positive side has a RED boot/cover? You have two choices for installation of the POSITIVE (RED) ring connector: either on the outside of the red boot, or from within the red boot. If it's warm when you do this you may be able to push the POSITIVE ring connector through the boot sleeve with the other wires. However, if it's cold the rubber boot will be very stiff, and this won't work. So, cut off the ring connector and then feed the tender's POSITIVE wire through the red boot. You'll then need to crimp a new ring connector to the wire. If you want the easy way (not the preferred way), then you can place the bolt through the RED ring outside the red boot and then through the cycle's POSITIVE connector.		Notice that the positive side has a RED boot/cover? You have two choices for installation of the POSITIVE (RED) ring connector: either on the outside of the red boot, or from within the red boot. If it's warm when you do this you may be able to push the POSITIVE ring connector through the boot sleeve with the other wires. However, if it's cold the rubber boot will be very stiff, and this won't work. So, cut off the ring connector and then feed the tender's POSITIVE wire through the red boot. You'll then need to crimp a new ring connector to the wire. If you want the easy way (not the preferred way), then you can place the bolt through the RED ring outside the red boot and then through the cycle's POSITIVE connector.

	Then, insert the bolt into the positive terminal post. You'll find out that the bolt is too short to reach the square nut. This is why we removed the side panels, to provide access to the nut from under the frame. Use a flat head screwdriver to 'lift' the nut up high enough to screw the bolt back in all the way. The terminals are made of lead, which is very soft. Don't get carried away with the screwdriver.		Then, insert the bolt into the positive terminal post. You'll find out that the bolt is too short to reach the square nut. The nut falls down when the terminal bolt is loosened.

			[[image:715852.gif\|150px]]

			This is why we removed the side panels, to provide access to the nut from under the frame. Use a flat head screwdriver to 'lift' the nut up high enough to screw the bolt back in all the way. The terminals are made of lead, which is very soft. Don't get carried away with the screwdriver.

	[[Image:Yuasa_10.jpg\|150px]]		[[Image:Yuasa_10.jpg\|150px]]

Bokonon at 16:35, 25 August 2007

2007-08-25T16:35:36Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 12:35, 25 August 2007
Line 70:		Line 70:
	Notice that the positive side has a RED boot/cover? You have two choices for installation of the POSITIVE (RED) ring connector: either on the outside of the red boot, or from within the red boot. If it's warm when you do this you may be able to push the POSITIVE ring connector through the boot sleeve with the other wires. However, if it's cold the rubber boot will be very stiff, and this won't work. So, cut off the ring connector and then feed the tender's POSITIVE wire through the red boot. You'll then need to crimp a new ring connector to the wire. If you want the easy way (not the preferred way), then you can place the bolt through the RED ring outside the red boot and then through the cycle's POSITIVE connector.		Notice that the positive side has a RED boot/cover? You have two choices for installation of the POSITIVE (RED) ring connector: either on the outside of the red boot, or from within the red boot. If it's warm when you do this you may be able to push the POSITIVE ring connector through the boot sleeve with the other wires. However, if it's cold the rubber boot will be very stiff, and this won't work. So, cut off the ring connector and then feed the tender's POSITIVE wire through the red boot. You'll then need to crimp a new ring connector to the wire. If you want the easy way (not the preferred way), then you can place the bolt through the RED ring outside the red boot and then through the cycle's POSITIVE connector.

	Then, insert the bolt into the positive terminal post. You'll find out that the bolt is too short to reach the square nut~~, this~~ is why we removed the side panels, to provide access to the nut from under the frame:		Then, insert the bolt into the positive terminal post. You'll find out that the bolt is too short to reach the square nut. This is why we removed the side panels, to provide access to the nut from under the frame. Use a flat head screwdriver to 'lift' the nut up high enough to screw the bolt back in all the way. The terminals are made of lead, which is very soft. Don't get carried away with the screwdriver.

	[[Image:~~Yuasa_12~~.jpg\|150px]]		[[Image:Yuasa_10.jpg\|150px]]

	Note that this is the negative side. Do the positive side first. We just don't have pictures of the positive side.		Note that this is the negative side. Do the positive side first. We just don't have pictures of the positive side.

	~~Use~~ a flat head screwdriver ~~to 'lift' the nut up high enough to~~ screw the bolt back in all the way~~. The terminals are made of lead, which is very soft. Don't get carried away with the screwdriver~~. Once you are done, it will look like this:		Now repeat the process for the right side to raise the nut using a flat head screwdriver, and then screw the bolt back in all the way. Once you are done, it will look like this (negative side again):

	[[Image:~~Yuasa_10~~.jpg\|150px]]		[[Image:Yuasa_12.jpg\|150px]]

	~~Now repeat the process for the right side to raise the nut using a flat head screwdriver, and then screw the bolt back in all the way.~~ Your 250 will now look like this:		Your 250 will now look like this:

	[[Image:Yuasa_15.jpg\|150px]]		[[Image:Yuasa_15.jpg\|150px]]

Bokonon at 14:15, 25 August 2007

2007-08-25T14:15:26Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 10:15, 25 August 2007
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	Positive lead (RED):		Positive lead (RED):

	[[Image:~~Yuasa_02~~.jpg\|150px]]		[[Image:Yuasa_03.jpg\|150px]]

	Negative lead (black):		Negative lead (black):

	[[Image:~~Yuasa_03~~.jpg\|150px]]		[[Image:Yuasa_04.jpg\|150px]]

	Inline fuse (3 amp):		Inline fuse (3 amp):

	[[Image:~~Yuasa_04~~.jpg\|150px]]		[[Image:Yuasa_02.jpg\|150px]]

	Quick connector (with cover on):		Quick connector (with cover on):
Line 48:		Line 48:
	[[Image:Yuasa_07.jpg\|150px]]		[[Image:Yuasa_07.jpg\|150px]]

	Once your seat is removed, this is what you will see:		Once your seat is removed, this is what you will see. The battery is located to the left, just before the two fuel tank bolts and behind the airbox (those two holes). There is also a black rubber strap that holds the battery in place.

	[[Image:Yuasa_08.jpg\|150px]]		[[Image:Yuasa_08.jpg\|150px]]

	~~The battery is located to the left, just before the two fuel tank bolts and behind the airbox (those two holes). There is also a black rubber strap that holds the battery in place.~~ This is what the battery looks like from overhead:		This is what the battery looks like from overhead:

	[[Image:Yuasa_09.jpg\|150px]]		[[Image:Yuasa_09.jpg\|150px]]
Line 62:		Line 62:
	Next, remove the POSITIVE lead from the POSITIVE terminal. Here's what the POSITIVE lead looks like with the bolt removed from the POSITIVE terminal:		Next, remove the POSITIVE lead from the POSITIVE terminal. Here's what the POSITIVE lead looks like with the bolt removed from the POSITIVE terminal:

	[[Image:~~Yuasa_10~~.jpg\|150px]]		[[Image:Yuasa_14.jpg\|150px]]

	Now, remove the side fairings from each side of the cycle that start at the back edge of the tank (one Phillips bolt and then pull free from the one front and two rear grommet stays):		Now, remove the side fairings from each side of the cycle that start at the back edge of the tank (one Phillips bolt and then pull free from the one front and two rear grommet stays):

	[[Image:~~Yuasa_12~~.jpg\|150px]]		[[Image:Yuasa_13.jpg\|150px]]

	Notice that the positive side has a RED boot/cover? You have two choices for installation of the POSITIVE (RED) ring connector: either on the outside of the red boot, or from within the red boot. If it's warm when you do this you may be able to push the POSITIVE ring connector through the boot sleeve with the other wires. However, if it's cold the rubber boot will be very stiff, and this won't work. So, cut off the ring connector and then feed the tender's POSITIVE wire through the red boot. You'll then need to crimp a new ring connector to the wire. If you want the easy way (not the preferred way), then you can place the bolt through the RED ring outside the red boot and then through the cycle's POSITIVE connector.		Notice that the positive side has a RED boot/cover? You have two choices for installation of the POSITIVE (RED) ring connector: either on the outside of the red boot, or from within the red boot. If it's warm when you do this you may be able to push the POSITIVE ring connector through the boot sleeve with the other wires. However, if it's cold the rubber boot will be very stiff, and this won't work. So, cut off the ring connector and then feed the tender's POSITIVE wire through the red boot. You'll then need to crimp a new ring connector to the wire. If you want the easy way (not the preferred way), then you can place the bolt through the RED ring outside the red boot and then through the cycle's POSITIVE connector.
Line 72:		Line 72:
	Then, insert the bolt into the positive terminal post. You'll find out that the bolt is too short to reach the square nut, this is why we removed the side panels, to provide access to the nut from under the frame:		Then, insert the bolt into the positive terminal post. You'll find out that the bolt is too short to reach the square nut, this is why we removed the side panels, to provide access to the nut from under the frame:

	[[Image:~~Yuasa_13~~.jpg\|150px]]		[[Image:Yuasa_12.jpg\|150px]]

	Note that this is the negative side. Do the positive side first. We just don't have pictures of the positive side.		Note that this is the negative side. Do the positive side first. We just don't have pictures of the positive side.
Line 78:		Line 78:
	Use a flat head screwdriver to 'lift' the nut up high enough to screw the bolt back in all the way. The terminals are made of lead, which is very soft. Don't get carried away with the screwdriver. Once you are done, it will look like this:		Use a flat head screwdriver to 'lift' the nut up high enough to screw the bolt back in all the way. The terminals are made of lead, which is very soft. Don't get carried away with the screwdriver. Once you are done, it will look like this:

	[[Image:~~Yuasa_14~~.jpg\|150px]]		[[Image:Yuasa_10.jpg\|150px]]

	Now repeat the process for the right side to raise the nut using a flat head screwdriver, and then screw the bolt back in all the way. Your 250 will now look like this:		Now repeat the process for the right side to raise the nut using a flat head screwdriver, and then screw the bolt back in all the way. Your 250 will now look like this:

Bokonon at 13:53, 25 August 2007

2007-08-25T13:53:06Z

New page

[[Category:Electrical & Lighting]]
====Notes====

Before reading this article, you may wish to read the FAQ article on [[What kind of battery charger can I use?|buying a battery charger]].

'''ALWAYS''', on every battery you ever deal with, '''disconnect the negative terminal first''', and '''reconnect the negative terminal last'''. So, for this procedure, disconnect the negative side, then do everything on the positive side, and finally finish up the negative side. This is to prevent arcing (creating sparks - bad things to have right behind your fuel tank/carbs) and for general safety.

'''Another caution:''' This is important: If you strip anything on your battery, or lose the terminal nut, the only way you can fix this is by buying a new battery.

====Here we go====

Most people should have a battery tender for their cycles. Why, you ask? Well, motorcycles have very small batteries (you may have noticed this). They have a much smaller capacity than their automobile counterparts. These batteries can discharge over time if not maintained on a battery tender, especially during the winter months, when the cold results in a more dramatic/quicker discharge. Also, the stator (alternator) on a cycle doesn't recharge the battery as quickly as an automobile one does.

This tutorial will walk you through the steps of installing a battery tender with ring connectors. The model used here is the Yuasa 900 mA battery charger, which costs about $35.00. It's readily available [http://www.motorcyclebatteriesusa.com/battery-chargers-details.asp?battery=122 online] or locally at Wal-Mart, automotive stores, etc. This (and most other) units come with both a ring (permanent) and clip end. We recommend the ring end, as it's safer and easier to use. If you have additional motorcycles, you can buy additional Yuasa ring ends for about $7.00 each. It's easy to install one on each motorcycle and move the tender between them on a rotating basis.

Umm... our photographer was still working on his macro technique when these photos were taken. We feel that you can figure everything out, anyway.

Yuasa 900mA battery charger (repackaged by Interstate Batteries):

[[Image:Yuasa_19.jpg|150px]]

Additional fused ring connector:

[[Image:Yuasa_01.jpg|150px]]

Positive lead (RED):

[[Image:Yuasa_02.jpg|150px]]

Negative lead (black):

[[Image:Yuasa_03.jpg|150px]]

Inline fuse (3 amp):

[[Image:Yuasa_04.jpg|150px]]

Quick connector (with cover on):

[[Image:Yuasa_05.jpg|150px]]

Quick connector (with cover off):

[[Image:Yuasa_06.jpg|150px]]

The first step is to remove the seat on your 250. To do this, insert your key on the left side into the seat lock, which is located just above the helmet lock, as shown here:

[[Image:Yuasa_07.jpg|150px]]

Once your seat is removed, this is what you will see:

[[Image:Yuasa_08.jpg|150px]]

The battery is located to the left, just before the two fuel tank bolts and behind the airbox (those two holes). There is also a black rubber strap that holds the battery in place. This is what the battery looks like from overhead:

[[Image:Yuasa_09.jpg|150px]]

The POSITIVE lead is on the left and is RED. The NEGATIVE lead is on the right and is BLACK. '''Do not mix these up'''.

First, remove the bolt from the NEGATIVE lead on the right using a Phillips screwdriver. Leave the NEGATIVE disconnected until you have completed the process for the POSITIVE terminal, as mentioned at the head of this page.

Next, remove the POSITIVE lead from the POSITIVE terminal. Here's what the POSITIVE lead looks like with the bolt removed from the POSITIVE terminal:

[[Image:Yuasa_10.jpg|150px]]

Now, remove the side fairings from each side of the cycle that start at the back edge of the tank (one Phillips bolt and then pull free from the one front and two rear grommet stays):

[[Image:Yuasa_12.jpg|150px]]

Notice that the positive side has a RED boot/cover? You have two choices for installation of the POSITIVE (RED) ring connector: either on the outside of the red boot, or from within the red boot. If it's warm when you do this you may be able to push the POSITIVE ring connector through the boot sleeve with the other wires. However, if it's cold the rubber boot will be very stiff, and this won't work. So, cut off the ring connector and then feed the tender's POSITIVE wire through the red boot. You'll then need to crimp a new ring connector to the wire. If you want the easy way (not the preferred way), then you can place the bolt through the RED ring outside the red boot and then through the cycle's POSITIVE connector.

Then, insert the bolt into the positive terminal post. You'll find out that the bolt is too short to reach the square nut, this is why we removed the side panels, to provide access to the nut from under the frame:

[[Image:Yuasa_13.jpg|150px]]

Note that this is the negative side. Do the positive side first. We just don't have pictures of the positive side.

Use a flat head screwdriver to 'lift' the nut up high enough to screw the bolt back in all the way. The terminals are made of lead, which is very soft. Don't get carried away with the screwdriver. Once you are done, it will look like this:

[[Image:Yuasa_14.jpg|150px]]

Now repeat the process for the right side to raise the nut using a flat head screwdriver, and then screw the bolt back in all the way. Your 250 will now look like this:

[[Image:Yuasa_15.jpg|150px]]

Run the quick connector back on the left side, under the tool kit box and under the seat release mechanism:

[[Image:Yuasa_16.jpg|150px]] [[Image:Yuasa_17.jpg|150px]]

This is how the connector looks with the seat re-installed and the charger plugged into the cycle connector:

[[Image:Yuasa_18.jpg|150px]]

An explanation of the charger's three lights:

*The top light is yellow and indicates that the unit has power.
*The middle light is orange and indicates that the battery is charging.
*The bottom light is green and indicates that the battery is fully charged, and is in trickle mode.

[[Image:Yuasa_19.jpg|150px]]

This unit, along with most others, will work with all major battery types, including [http://pweb.jps.net/~snowbum/newbattery.htm flooded (wet)], [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gel_battery gelled], and [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Absorbent_glass_mat AGM (Absorbent Glass Mat)]. If in doubt, check the packaging.