Making your accessory wires 'switched' - Revision history

Bokonon at 14:33, 23 November 2010

2010-11-23T14:33:40Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 10:33, 23 November 2010
Line 57:		Line 57:
	[[image:acc switched 8.jpg\|100px]]		[[image:acc switched 8.jpg\|100px]]

	Crush both ends lightly with your pliers, just enough to flatten them for clearance issues. Draw some solder into each end of the wire with the ~~solder gun~~, making sure it is well saturated before you solder it onto the board. Solder one end at a time to the applicable connectors. You are connecting the power (before the fuse) of the horn to the power (again before the fuse) side of the ACC. This way, if your ACC fuse blows, you won't also risk blowing the horn fuse (as it is at a lower amperage after your modifications).		Crush both ends lightly with your pliers, just enough to flatten them for clearance issues. Draw some solder into each end of the wire with the iron, making sure it is well saturated before you solder it onto the board. Solder one end at a time to the applicable connectors. You are connecting the power (before the fuse) of the horn to the power (again before the fuse) side of the ACC. This way, if your ACC fuse blows, you won't also risk blowing the horn fuse (as it is at a lower amperage after your modifications).

	If you aren't brave enough to learn to solder on this job, take it to your local electronics nerd and show him the final picture. Should be that easy.		If you aren't brave enough to learn to solder on this job, take it to your local electronics nerd and show him the final picture. Should be that easy.

Bokonon: /* Tools */

2010-11-23T14:31:34Z

Tools

← Older revision		Revision as of 10:31, 23 November 2010
Line 19:		Line 19:
	*Large Phillips screwdriver		*Large Phillips screwdriver
	*Small Phillips screwdriver		*Small Phillips screwdriver
	*Soldering ~~gun~~ - Smaller is good; a really big one runs the risk of overheating the board and delaminating the copper. See [[Soldering 101]]		*Soldering iron - Smaller is good; a really big one runs the risk of overheating the board and delaminating the copper. See [[Soldering 101]]
	*Utility knife		*Utility knife
	*Pliers		*Pliers
	*Testing light or another means of testing connections.		*Testing light or another means of testing connections.

	====Process====		====Process====

Bokonon at 05:46, 22 November 2010

2010-11-22T05:46:17Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 01:46, 22 November 2010
Line 57:		Line 57:
	[[image:acc switched 8.jpg\|100px]]		[[image:acc switched 8.jpg\|100px]]

	Crush both ends lightly with your pliers, just enough to flatten them for clearance issues. Draw some solder into each end of the wire with the solder gun, making sure it is well saturated before you solder it onto the board. ~~Take the wire, and solder~~ one end at a time to the applicable connectors. You are connecting the power (before the fuse) of the horn to the power (again before the fuse) side of the ACC. This way, if your ACC fuse blows, you won't also risk blowing the horn fuse (as it is at a lower amperage after your modifications).		Crush both ends lightly with your pliers, just enough to flatten them for clearance issues. Draw some solder into each end of the wire with the solder gun, making sure it is well saturated before you solder it onto the board. Solder one end at a time to the applicable connectors. You are connecting the power (before the fuse) of the horn to the power (again before the fuse) side of the ACC. This way, if your ACC fuse blows, you won't also risk blowing the horn fuse (as it is at a lower amperage after your modifications).

	If you aren't brave enough to learn to solder on this job, take it to your local electronics nerd and show him the final picture. Should be that easy.		If you aren't brave enough to learn to solder on this job, take it to your local electronics nerd and show him the final picture. Should be that easy.

Bokonon: /* Supplies */

2010-11-22T05:38:47Z

Supplies

← Older revision		Revision as of 01:38, 22 November 2010
Line 13:		Line 13:
	* 1" section of 18 to 12 gauge wire with sheath intact. Color is irrelevant.		* 1" section of 18 to 12 gauge wire with sheath intact. Color is irrelevant.
	* Solder - 1.6mm was used, but smaller would be preferred. See [[Soldering 101]]		* Solder - 1.6mm was used, but smaller would be preferred. See [[Soldering 101]]
	* [[Waterproofing your electrical connections\|Dielectric grease]] - ~~Again, not~~ required, but it's nice to have.		* [[Waterproofing your electrical connections\|Dielectric grease]] - Not required, but it's nice to have.

	====Tools====		====Tools====

Bokonon at 05:20, 22 November 2010

2010-11-22T05:20:23Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 01:20, 22 November 2010
Line 4:		Line 4:

	If you have several farkles on your bike, it would be better for you to mount an [[Installing an accessory fuse box\|accessory fuse box]].		If you have several farkles on your bike, it would be better for you to mount an [[Installing an accessory fuse box\|accessory fuse box]].

			What is going on in this article is you are cutting a trace, then adding a jumper wire. The trace, which is a part of the copper layer on a printed circuit board, is about .001-.002" thick. It's copper, laminated to the board, which is probably made of fiberglass.

	Compared to installing a fuse box, this method is easier, costs much less, and is totally invisible, unless you open the back of your fuse box. This was written for a '96 Ninja EX250F; F series bikes built since 1995 ''should'' be the same, but take a good look at yours to make sure before you start modifying. This won't work on '94 and earlier bikes. They have a different junction box, which contains not only the fuses but also things like the diodes and relays which implement the headlight logic and other interesting things.		Compared to installing a fuse box, this method is easier, costs much less, and is totally invisible, unless you open the back of your fuse box. This was written for a '96 Ninja EX250F; F series bikes built since 1995 ''should'' be the same, but take a good look at yours to make sure before you start modifying. This won't work on '94 and earlier bikes. They have a different junction box, which contains not only the fuses but also things like the diodes and relays which implement the headlight logic and other interesting things.
Line 10:		Line 12:

	* 1" section of 18 to 12 gauge wire with sheath intact. Color is irrelevant.		* 1" section of 18 to 12 gauge wire with sheath intact. Color is irrelevant.
	* Solder - 1.6mm was used, but smaller would be preferred.		* Solder - 1.6mm was used, but smaller would be preferred. See [[Soldering 101]]
	* Solder Paste - Not required, but it does make life a bit easier.
	* [[Waterproofing your electrical connections\|Dielectric grease]] - Again, not required, but it's nice to have.		* [[Waterproofing your electrical connections\|Dielectric grease]] - Again, not required, but it's nice to have.

Line 18:		Line 19:
	*Large Phillips screwdriver		*Large Phillips screwdriver
	*Small Phillips screwdriver		*Small Phillips screwdriver
	*Soldering gun - Smaller is good; a ~~real manly~~ one ~~isn't necessary~~.		*Soldering gun - Smaller is good; a really big one runs the risk of overheating the board and delaminating the copper. See [[Soldering 101]]
	*~~Beater slotted (straight) screwdriver. This will be used for scraping, not driving screws. Smaller and sharp is good.~~		*Utility knife
	*Pliers		*Pliers
	*Testing light or another means of testing connections.		*Testing light or another means of testing connections.
Line 29:		Line 30:
	[[image:acc switched 1.jpg\|150px]]		[[image:acc switched 1.jpg\|150px]]

	Before you remove this box, take a moment to look at the fuses inside. Remove the cover. It comes off really easily with hand pressure. Take a look at the inside of the cover. You should see something like in the picture below. The fuse being pointed at is the ACC (accessory) fuse. This is always powered, even when the ignition is in the "Off" position. That fact is what this article is going to change.		Before you remove this box, take a moment to look at the fuses inside. Remove the cover. It comes off really easily with hand pressure. Take a look at the inside of the cover. You should see something like the picture below. The fuse being pointed at is the ACC (accessory) fuse. This is always powered, even when the ignition is in the Off position. That fact is what this article is going to change.

	[[image:acc switched 2.jpg\|150px]]		[[image:acc switched 2.jpg\|150px]]
Line 37:		Line 38:
	[[image:acc switched 3.jpg\|100px]]		[[image:acc switched 3.jpg\|100px]]

	Once you've removed this from the bike, go to your favorite work station. You will need to remove the back of the box, so bring all of the tools and materials you haven't used yet with you. Take all four screws out with your small Phillips; be careful not to strip them, as they are soft. Remove the rubber baffle on the back; this comes off fairly easily ~~with~~ hand ~~pressure~~.		Once you've removed this from the bike, go to your favorite work station. You will need to remove the back of the box, so bring all of the tools and materials you haven't used yet with you. Take all four screws out with your small Phillips; be careful not to strip them, as they are soft. Remove the rubber baffle on the back; this comes off fairly easily by hand.

	[[image:acc switched 4.jpg\|100px]]		[[image:acc switched 4.jpg\|100px]]
	[[image:acc switched 5.jpg\|100px]]		[[image:acc switched 5.jpg\|100px]]

	Now that you have the back off, you should see an exposed circuit board. This is where all of the fuses are connected. From now on you want to keep all metal tools away. You '''don't''' want to scratch this board (until you need to). Locate ~~were~~ the fuses are connected, and observe that the diagram on the cover will be mirrored. You can draw one yourself, just to make life easier. This makes it readily apparent what goes where on the circuit board.		Now that you have the back off, you should see an exposed circuit board. This is where all of the fuses are connected. From now on you want to keep all metal tools away. You '''don't''' want to scratch this board (until you need to). Locate where the fuses are connected, and observe that the diagram on the cover will be mirrored. You can draw one yourself, just to make life easier. This makes it readily apparent what goes where on the circuit board.

	[[image:acc switched 6.jpg\|100px]]		[[image:acc switched 6.jpg\|100px]]

	This is where you're going to remove power from your "ACC" fuse when the ignition is "Off". The only other item that receives power when the ignition is in the "Off" position is the ~~Fan~~, and you can see here that they are connected by the circuit (refer to earlier diagram). The best way to do this is to sever this printed circuit. At this point you need to take your ~~small, sharp, flat screwdriver~~ and make a "cut" in the board, as in the picture below. You want to make many slow motions with minimal force; you don't want to go off target and hit a portion of the board that you don't want scratched. You need to keep going until you see a yellowish color instead of the silvery metal color of the circuit; this shows you are through the metal and the link is severed. Use your tester to ensure that these two points aren't connected anymore. Put one arm of the tester on each metal contact (not on the board itself; there is a protective coating that is non-conductive on it).		This is where you're going to remove power from your ACC fuse when the ignition is Off. The only other item that receives power when the ignition is in the Off position is the fan, and you can see here that they are connected by the circuit (refer to earlier diagram). The best way to do this is to sever this printed circuit. At this point you need to take your knife and make a cut in the board, as in the picture below.

	[[image:acc switched 7-r.jpg\|100px]]		[[image:acc switched 7-r.jpg\|100px]]

			Make many slow motions with minimal force; you don't want to go off target and hit a portion of the board that you don't want scratched. You need to keep going until you see a yellowish color instead of the silvery metal color of the circuit; this shows you are through the metal and the link is severed. Use your tester to ensure that these two points aren't connected anymore. Put one arm of the tester on each metal contact (not on the board itself; there is a protective coating that is non-conductive on it).

	You will now need the small piece of wire, preferably between 18 and 12 gauge – no larger than 12 for clearance issues. 16 AWG usually works well for moto applications. Strip a few mm off of each end, but not too much; you want the coating to occupy most of the length to prevent any issue of touching another piece inside the fuse box. Refer to your own board for exact length; you can see how it will be used in this photo.		You will now need the small piece of wire, preferably between 18 and 12 gauge – no larger than 12 for clearance issues. 16 AWG usually works well for moto applications. Strip a few mm off of each end, but not too much; you want the coating to occupy most of the length to prevent any issue of touching another piece inside the fuse box. Refer to your own board for exact length; you can see how it will be used in this photo.
Line 54:		Line 57:
	[[image:acc switched 8.jpg\|100px]]		[[image:acc switched 8.jpg\|100px]]

	Crush both ends lightly with your pliers, just enough to flatten them for clearance issues~~. Use your solder paste, dabbing a bit on each end, to help the solder itself~~. Draw some solder into each end of the wire with the solder gun, making sure it is well saturated before you solder it onto the board. Take the wire, and one end at a time ~~solder it~~ to the applicable connectors. You are connecting the power, before the fuse, of the horn, to the power, again before the fuse, side of the ACC. This way, if your ACC fuse blows, you won't also risk blowing the horn fuse (as it is at a lower amperage after your modifications).		Crush both ends lightly with your pliers, just enough to flatten them for clearance issues. Draw some solder into each end of the wire with the solder gun, making sure it is well saturated before you solder it onto the board. Take the wire, and solder one end at a time to the applicable connectors. You are connecting the power (before the fuse) of the horn to the power (again before the fuse) side of the ACC. This way, if your ACC fuse blows, you won't also risk blowing the horn fuse (as it is at a lower amperage after your modifications).

			If you aren't brave enough to learn to solder on this job, take it to your local electronics nerd and show him the final picture. Should be that easy.

	====Testing====		====Testing====

	You can now re-assemble everything and test the finished product. Use some dielectric grease on the fuse box connectors. No modifying is obvious, and what has been modified is reversible (you only need to solder a wire to make the connection you severed ~~with the flat blade~~ whole again).		You can now re-assemble everything and test the finished product. Use some dielectric grease on the fuse box connectors. No modifying is obvious, and what has been modified is reversible (you only need to solder a wire to make the connection you severed whole again).

	When you test the modification, be sure to plug in all the gear you plan on running and blow the horn. As you are drawing power from the horn, this could blow a fuse that would otherwise be safe without the addition of your accessories. Be sure to carry a spare fuse in the spare slot, just in case. You may also consider carrying a spare 15 amp fuse, but only use this '''in an emergency''', for instance if you're 200 miles from home and need to keep moving.		When you test the modification, be sure to plug in all the gear you plan on running and blow the horn. As you are drawing power from the horn, this could blow a fuse that would otherwise be safe without the addition of your accessories. Be sure to carry a spare fuse in the spare slot, just in case. You may also consider carrying a spare 15 amp fuse, but only use this '''in an emergency''', for instance if you're 200 miles from home and need to keep moving.

Bokonon at 21:00, 25 May 2010

2010-05-25T21:00:48Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 17:00, 25 May 2010
Line 5:		Line 5:
	If you have several farkles on your bike, it would be better for you to mount an [[Installing an accessory fuse box\|accessory fuse box]].		If you have several farkles on your bike, it would be better for you to mount an [[Installing an accessory fuse box\|accessory fuse box]].

	Compared to installing a fuse box, this method is easier, costs much less, and is totally invisible, unless you open the back of your fuse box. This was written for a '96 Ninja EX250F; ~~other years of~~ F series bikes ''should'' be the same, but take a good look at yours to make sure before you start modifying.		Compared to installing a fuse box, this method is easier, costs much less, and is totally invisible, unless you open the back of your fuse box. This was written for a '96 Ninja EX250F; F series bikes built since 1995 ''should'' be the same, but take a good look at yours to make sure before you start modifying. This won't work on '94 and earlier bikes. They have a different junction box, which contains not only the fuses but also things like the diodes and relays which implement the headlight logic and other interesting things.

	====Supplies====		====Supplies====

Bokonon: /* Process */

2010-05-25T12:52:53Z

Process

← Older revision		Revision as of 08:52, 25 May 2010
Line 48:		Line 48:
	This is where you're going to remove power from your "ACC" fuse when the ignition is "Off". The only other item that receives power when the ignition is in the "Off" position is the Fan, and you can see here that they are connected by the circuit (refer to earlier diagram). The best way to do this is to sever this printed circuit. At this point you need to take your small, sharp, flat screwdriver and make a "cut" in the board, as in the picture below. You want to make many slow motions with minimal force; you don't want to go off target and hit a portion of the board that you don't want scratched. You need to keep going until you see a yellowish color instead of the silvery metal color of the circuit; this shows you are through the metal and the link is severed. Use your tester to ensure that these two points aren't connected anymore. Put one arm of the tester on each metal contact (not on the board itself; there is a protective coating that is non-conductive on it).		This is where you're going to remove power from your "ACC" fuse when the ignition is "Off". The only other item that receives power when the ignition is in the "Off" position is the Fan, and you can see here that they are connected by the circuit (refer to earlier diagram). The best way to do this is to sever this printed circuit. At this point you need to take your small, sharp, flat screwdriver and make a "cut" in the board, as in the picture below. You want to make many slow motions with minimal force; you don't want to go off target and hit a portion of the board that you don't want scratched. You need to keep going until you see a yellowish color instead of the silvery metal color of the circuit; this shows you are through the metal and the link is severed. Use your tester to ensure that these two points aren't connected anymore. Put one arm of the tester on each metal contact (not on the board itself; there is a protective coating that is non-conductive on it).

	[[image:acc switched 7-r.jpg\|~~150px~~]]		[[image:acc switched 7-r.jpg\|100px]]

	You will now need the small piece of wire, preferably between 18 and 12 gauge – no larger than 12 for clearance issues. 16 AWG usually works well for moto applications. Strip a few mm off of each end, but not too much; you want the coating to occupy most of the length to prevent any issue of touching another piece inside the fuse box. Refer to your own board for exact length; you can see how it will be used in this photo.		You will now need the small piece of wire, preferably between 18 and 12 gauge – no larger than 12 for clearance issues. 16 AWG usually works well for moto applications. Strip a few mm off of each end, but not too much; you want the coating to occupy most of the length to prevent any issue of touching another piece inside the fuse box. Refer to your own board for exact length; you can see how it will be used in this photo.

Bokonon: /* Process */

2010-05-25T12:51:01Z

Process

← Older revision		Revision as of 08:51, 25 May 2010
Line 48:		Line 48:
	This is where you're going to remove power from your "ACC" fuse when the ignition is "Off". The only other item that receives power when the ignition is in the "Off" position is the Fan, and you can see here that they are connected by the circuit (refer to earlier diagram). The best way to do this is to sever this printed circuit. At this point you need to take your small, sharp, flat screwdriver and make a "cut" in the board, as in the picture below. You want to make many slow motions with minimal force; you don't want to go off target and hit a portion of the board that you don't want scratched. You need to keep going until you see a yellowish color instead of the silvery metal color of the circuit; this shows you are through the metal and the link is severed. Use your tester to ensure that these two points aren't connected anymore. Put one arm of the tester on each metal contact (not on the board itself; there is a protective coating that is non-conductive on it).		This is where you're going to remove power from your "ACC" fuse when the ignition is "Off". The only other item that receives power when the ignition is in the "Off" position is the Fan, and you can see here that they are connected by the circuit (refer to earlier diagram). The best way to do this is to sever this printed circuit. At this point you need to take your small, sharp, flat screwdriver and make a "cut" in the board, as in the picture below. You want to make many slow motions with minimal force; you don't want to go off target and hit a portion of the board that you don't want scratched. You need to keep going until you see a yellowish color instead of the silvery metal color of the circuit; this shows you are through the metal and the link is severed. Use your tester to ensure that these two points aren't connected anymore. Put one arm of the tester on each metal contact (not on the board itself; there is a protective coating that is non-conductive on it).

	[[image:acc switched 7.jpg\|150px]]		[[image:acc switched 7-r.jpg\|150px]]

	You will now need the small piece of wire, preferably between 18 and 12 gauge – no larger than 12 for clearance issues. 16 AWG usually works well for moto applications. Strip a few mm off of each end, but not too much; you want the coating to occupy most of the length to prevent any issue of touching another piece inside the fuse box. Refer to your own board for exact length; you can see how it will be used in this photo.		You will now need the small piece of wire, preferably between 18 and 12 gauge – no larger than 12 for clearance issues. 16 AWG usually works well for moto applications. Strip a few mm off of each end, but not too much; you want the coating to occupy most of the length to prevent any issue of touching another piece inside the fuse box. Refer to your own board for exact length; you can see how it will be used in this photo.

Bokonon at 07:26, 25 May 2010

2010-05-25T07:26:35Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 03:26, 25 May 2010
Line 1:		Line 1:
	[[Category:Electrical & Lighting]]		[[Category:Electrical & Lighting]]
	__TOC__		__TOC__
	The [[What are these wires that aren't attached to anything?\|accessory wires]] on the Ninja 250 are a really good thing, except that they are always hot, which has its drawbacks. If you are only running one or two accessories (heated grips, for example) this writeup will show you how you can arrange it so the accessory wires go off when you turn off the key. It may save you from the dead battery you'll get if you forget to turn off your accessory when you walk away from the bike.		The [[What are these wires that aren't attached to anything?\|accessory wires]] on the Ninja 250 are a really good thing, except that they are always hot, which has its drawbacks. If you are only running one or two accessories (heated grips or charging a phone, for example) this writeup will show you how you can arrange it so the accessory wires go off when you turn off the key. It may save you from the dead battery you'll get if you forget to turn off your accessory when you walk away from the bike.

	If you have several farkles on your bike, it would be better for you to mount an [[Installing an accessory fuse box\|accessory fuse box]].		If you have several farkles on your bike, it would be better for you to mount an [[Installing an accessory fuse box\|accessory fuse box]].

Bokonon at 07:23, 25 May 2010

2010-05-25T07:23:33Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 03:23, 25 May 2010
Line 35:		Line 35:
	The box itself slides out of its rubber mounts by gently pushing it forwards, towards the front of the bike. When you have it out of its mounting slot, take out the two power wires. These should come out with just finger pressure, but you may need to use a screwdriver to depress the release button as you use pliers to pull them out. Be careful: they are fairly soft and you don't want to wreck them.		The box itself slides out of its rubber mounts by gently pushing it forwards, towards the front of the bike. When you have it out of its mounting slot, take out the two power wires. These should come out with just finger pressure, but you may need to use a screwdriver to depress the release button as you use pliers to pull them out. Be careful: they are fairly soft and you don't want to wreck them.

	[[image:acc switched 3.jpg\|~~150px~~]]		[[image:acc switched 3.jpg\|100px]]

	Once you've removed this from the bike, go to your favorite work station. You will need to remove the back of the box, so bring all of the tools and materials you haven't used yet with you. Take all four screws out with your small Phillips; be careful not to strip them, as they are soft. Remove the rubber baffle on the back; this comes off fairly easily with hand pressure.		Once you've removed this from the bike, go to your favorite work station. You will need to remove the back of the box, so bring all of the tools and materials you haven't used yet with you. Take all four screws out with your small Phillips; be careful not to strip them, as they are soft. Remove the rubber baffle on the back; this comes off fairly easily with hand pressure.

	[[image:acc switched 4.jpg\|~~150px~~]]		[[image:acc switched 4.jpg\|100px]]
	[[image:acc switched 5.jpg\|~~150px~~]]		[[image:acc switched 5.jpg\|100px]]

	Now that you have the back off, you should see an exposed circuit board. This is where all of the fuses are connected. From now on you want to keep all metal tools away. You '''don't''' want to scratch this board (until you need to). Locate were the fuses are connected, and observe that the diagram on the cover will be mirrored. You can draw one yourself, just to make life easier. This makes it readily apparent what goes where on the circuit board.		Now that you have the back off, you should see an exposed circuit board. This is where all of the fuses are connected. From now on you want to keep all metal tools away. You '''don't''' want to scratch this board (until you need to). Locate were the fuses are connected, and observe that the diagram on the cover will be mirrored. You can draw one yourself, just to make life easier. This makes it readily apparent what goes where on the circuit board.

	[[image:acc switched 6.jpg\|~~150px~~]]		[[image:acc switched 6.jpg\|100px]]

	This is where you're going to remove power from your "ACC" fuse when the ignition is "Off". The only other item that receives power when the ignition is in the "Off" position is the Fan, and you can see here that they are connected by the circuit (refer to earlier diagram). The best way to do this is to sever this printed circuit. At this point you need to take your small, sharp, flat screwdriver and make a "cut" in the board, as in the picture below. You want to make many slow motions with minimal force; you don't want to go off target and hit a portion of the board that you don't want scratched. You need to keep going until you see a yellowish color instead of the silvery metal color of the circuit; this shows you are through the metal and the link is severed. Use your tester to ensure that these two points aren't connected anymore. Put one arm of the tester on each metal contact (not on the board itself; there is a protective coating that is non-conductive on it).		This is where you're going to remove power from your "ACC" fuse when the ignition is "Off". The only other item that receives power when the ignition is in the "Off" position is the Fan, and you can see here that they are connected by the circuit (refer to earlier diagram). The best way to do this is to sever this printed circuit. At this point you need to take your small, sharp, flat screwdriver and make a "cut" in the board, as in the picture below. You want to make many slow motions with minimal force; you don't want to go off target and hit a portion of the board that you don't want scratched. You need to keep going until you see a yellowish color instead of the silvery metal color of the circuit; this shows you are through the metal and the link is severed. Use your tester to ensure that these two points aren't connected anymore. Put one arm of the tester on each metal contact (not on the board itself; there is a protective coating that is non-conductive on it).
Line 52:		Line 52:
	You will now need the small piece of wire, preferably between 18 and 12 gauge – no larger than 12 for clearance issues. 16 AWG usually works well for moto applications. Strip a few mm off of each end, but not too much; you want the coating to occupy most of the length to prevent any issue of touching another piece inside the fuse box. Refer to your own board for exact length; you can see how it will be used in this photo.		You will now need the small piece of wire, preferably between 18 and 12 gauge – no larger than 12 for clearance issues. 16 AWG usually works well for moto applications. Strip a few mm off of each end, but not too much; you want the coating to occupy most of the length to prevent any issue of touching another piece inside the fuse box. Refer to your own board for exact length; you can see how it will be used in this photo.

	[[image:acc switched 8.jpg\|~~150px~~]]		[[image:acc switched 8.jpg\|100px]]

	Crush both ends lightly with your pliers, just enough to flatten them for clearance issues. Use your solder paste, dabbing a bit on each end, to help the solder itself. Draw some solder into each end of the wire with the solder gun, making sure it is well saturated before you solder it onto the board. Take the wire, and one end at a time solder it to the applicable connectors. You are connecting the power, before the fuse, of the horn, to the power, again before the fuse, side of the ACC. This way, if your ACC fuse blows, you won't also risk blowing the horn fuse (as it is at a lower amperage after your modifications).		Crush both ends lightly with your pliers, just enough to flatten them for clearance issues. Use your solder paste, dabbing a bit on each end, to help the solder itself. Draw some solder into each end of the wire with the solder gun, making sure it is well saturated before you solder it onto the board. Take the wire, and one end at a time solder it to the applicable connectors. You are connecting the power, before the fuse, of the horn, to the power, again before the fuse, side of the ACC. This way, if your ACC fuse blows, you won't also risk blowing the horn fuse (as it is at a lower amperage after your modifications).