Mounting & balancing tires yourself - Revision history

Bokonon: /* Removing the old tire */

2011-10-05T04:24:39Z

Removing the old tire

← Older revision		Revision as of 00:24, 5 October 2011
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	[[image:bar clamp craftsman.jpg\|120px]]		[[image:bar clamp craftsman.jpg\|120px]]

	If you want to be one of the cool kids, you can get one of these from [http://www.harborfreight.com/bead-breaker-92961.html Harbor Freight]. [http://www.jcwhitney.com/tire-bead-breaker/p2004021.jcwx?filterid=j1# JC Whitney] has one that appears to be the same.		If you want to be one of the cool kids, you can get one of these from [http://www.harborfreight.com/bead-breaker-92961.html Harbor Freight]. It stores somewhat compact and works many times better than a c-clamp. [http://www.jcwhitney.com/tire-bead-breaker/p2004021.jcwx?filterid=j1# JC Whitney] has one that appears to be the same.

	[[Image:HFbeadbreaker.jpg\|150px]]		[[Image:HFbeadbreaker.jpg\|150px]]

Bokonon: /* Removing the old tire */

2011-10-05T01:57:18Z

Removing the old tire

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:57, 4 October 2011
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	[[image:bar clamp craftsman.jpg\|120px]]		[[image:bar clamp craftsman.jpg\|120px]]

	If you want to be one of the cool kids, you can get one of these from [http://www.harborfreight.com/bead-breaker-92961.html Harbor Freight] or [http://www.jcwhitney.com/~~autoparts/Product/Pr~~-~~p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2004055/c~~-~~10111~~/~~Nty-1/p-2004055/Ntx-mode+matchallpartial/N-111+10111+500000/tf-Browse/s-10101/Ntk-AllTextSearchGroup~~?~~Ntt~~=~~bead+breaker~~ JC Whitney]~~. Whitney also~~ has a [http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2004056/c-10111/Nty-1/p-2004056/Ntx-mode+matchallpartial/N-111+10111+500000/tf-Browse/s-10101/Ntk-AllTextSearchGroup?Ntt=bead+breaker less expensive model].		If you want to be one of the cool kids, you can get one of these from [http://www.harborfreight.com/bead-breaker-92961.html Harbor Freight]. [http://www.jcwhitney.com/tire-bead-breaker/p2004021.jcwx?filterid=j1# JC Whitney] has one that appears to be the same.

	[[Image:HFbeadbreaker.jpg\|150px]]		[[Image:HFbeadbreaker.jpg\|150px]]

Bokonon: /* Removing the old tire */

2011-10-05T01:32:04Z

Removing the old tire

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:32, 4 October 2011
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	[[image:bar clamp craftsman.jpg\|120px]]		[[image:bar clamp craftsman.jpg\|120px]]

	If you want to be one of the cool kids, you can get one of these from [http://www.harborfreight.com/~~cpi/ctaf/displayitem~~.~~taf?Itemnumber=92961~~ Harbor Freight] or [http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2004055/c-10111/Nty-1/p-2004055/Ntx-mode+matchallpartial/N-111+10111+500000/tf-Browse/s-10101/Ntk-AllTextSearchGroup?Ntt=bead+breaker JC Whitney]. Whitney also has a [http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2004056/c-10111/Nty-1/p-2004056/Ntx-mode+matchallpartial/N-111+10111+500000/tf-Browse/s-10101/Ntk-AllTextSearchGroup?Ntt=bead+breaker less expensive model].		If you want to be one of the cool kids, you can get one of these from [http://www.harborfreight.com/bead-breaker-92961.html Harbor Freight] or [http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2004055/c-10111/Nty-1/p-2004055/Ntx-mode+matchallpartial/N-111+10111+500000/tf-Browse/s-10101/Ntk-AllTextSearchGroup?Ntt=bead+breaker JC Whitney]. Whitney also has a [http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2004056/c-10111/Nty-1/p-2004056/Ntx-mode+matchallpartial/N-111+10111+500000/tf-Browse/s-10101/Ntk-AllTextSearchGroup?Ntt=bead+breaker less expensive model].

	[[Image:HFbeadbreaker.jpg\|150px]]		[[Image:HFbeadbreaker.jpg\|150px]]

Bokonon: /* Reattaching the wheel */

2010-09-29T08:16:53Z

Reattaching the wheel

← Older revision		Revision as of 04:16, 29 September 2010
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	*[[Removing/replacing the rear wheel\|Rear wheel]]		*[[Removing/replacing the rear wheel\|Rear wheel]]

	Be sure to use a new cotter pin. Be sure to reattach the brake and use the [[Torque Values\|proper torque]] on everything~~. If the rear wheel gives you trouble, try this:~~		Be sure to use a new cotter pin. Be sure to reattach the brake and use the [[Torque Values\|proper torque]] on everything.

	Sit on the ground behind the bike. Hold the wheel up with your left hand, or your feet, and feed the axle in with your right. When it starts to hang up (and it almost always does), tap (not whack! just tap) the head of the bolt with a hammer while moving the wheel up and down a little with your left hand.

	~~If you get it back on and it doesn't seem quite right, check that your spacers are all in order. Should look like this:~~

	~~[[image:DSC00424.jpg\|150px]]~~

	~~If you have trouble with the wheel not spinning after the front is back on, check that the speedometer drive is [[Reinstalling the front wheel\|installed correctly]]~~.

	==Links==		==Links==

Bokonon at 08:05, 29 September 2010

2010-09-29T08:05:44Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 04:05, 29 September 2010
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	Also notice the DOT code. It's a 4-digit code that lists the week and the year the tire was made. This one is 3205, so the 32nd week of 2005. More than 3 or 4 years old and tires start to go 'off', get hard, and aren't any fun to ride on (worse than the stock Dunrocks on the 250).		Also notice the DOT code. It's a 4-digit code that lists the week and the year the tire was made. This one is 3205, so the 32nd week of 2005. More than 3 or 4 years old and tires start to go 'off', get hard, and aren't any fun to ride on (worse than the stock Dunrocks on the 250).

	==~~Find~~ the wheel's heavy point==		==Finding the wheel's heavy point==

	Before you put the tire on the rim, you need to find the wheel's heavy point. You only need to do this once for the lifetime of each wheel. Go to [[How can I balance the tires by myself?]] and do that part now. It will also tell you how to use the factory's paint mark to find the correct point to mount the tire on the wheel.		Before you put the tire on the rim, you need to find the wheel's heavy point. You only need to do this once for the lifetime of each wheel. Go to [[How can I balance the tires by myself?]] and do that part now. It will also tell you how to use the factory's paint mark to find the correct point to mount the tire on the wheel.

Bokonon: /* Reattaching the wheel */

2010-09-29T06:40:50Z

Reattaching the wheel

← Older revision		Revision as of 02:40, 29 September 2010
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	After you've balanced the wheel, you're done mounting and balancing. Time to put the wheels back on the bike and go for a ride.		After you've balanced the wheel, you're done mounting and balancing. Time to put the wheels back on the bike and go for a ride.

	[[Removing/replacing the rear wheel\|~~Reinstall the~~ wheel]] ~~(exact reverse of above).~~ Be sure to use a new cotter pin. Be sure to reattach the brake and use the [[Torque Values\|proper torque]] on everything. If the rear wheel gives you trouble, try this:		Reinstall the wheel:

			*[[Reinstalling the front wheel\|Front wheel]]
			*[[Removing/replacing the rear wheel\|Rear wheel]]

			Be sure to use a new cotter pin. Be sure to reattach the brake and use the [[Torque Values\|proper torque]] on everything. If the rear wheel gives you trouble, try this:

	Sit on the ground behind the bike. Hold the wheel up with your left hand, or your feet, and feed the axle in with your right. When it starts to hang up (and it almost always does), tap (not whack! just tap) the head of the bolt with a hammer while moving the wheel up and down a little with your left hand.		Sit on the ground behind the bike. Hold the wheel up with your left hand, or your feet, and feed the axle in with your right. When it starts to hang up (and it almost always does), tap (not whack! just tap) the head of the bolt with a hammer while moving the wheel up and down a little with your left hand.

Bokonon: /* Mounting the new tire */

2010-09-29T06:36:56Z

Mounting the new tire

← Older revision		Revision as of 02:36, 29 September 2010
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	Then, push the first bead into the center of the rim, put some lube (see [[Tire Mounting Hints & Tips\|Hints & Tips]]) on the bead that is still outside the rim, and slowly work the tire on with your irons. It is important that you put the bead that is already all the way on the rim into the center of the rim (the deepest part), and not against the side of the rim on the far side. This will give your tire more slack, and will make it less likely that you'll have to bust your fingers trying to get the second bead on.		Then, push the first bead into the center of the rim, put some lube (see [[Tire Mounting Hints & Tips\|Hints & Tips]]) on the bead that is still outside the rim, and slowly work the tire on with your irons. It is important that you put the bead that is already all the way on the rim into the center of the rim (the deepest part), and not against the side of the rim on the far side. This will give your tire more slack, and will make it less likely that you'll have to bust your fingers trying to get the second bead on.

	~~There are no pictures of this process, as it's impossible to stop without having the tire work its way off the rim. Here's Leon to give you a good idea of how it works.~~ Keep your knees on the part that's already on the rim, the first bead in the low center part of the rim~~, work~~ your way around with your tire irons, and it should only be difficult the last little bit.		Keep your knees on the part that's already on the rim and the first bead in the low center part of the rim. Work your way around with your tire irons, and it should only be difficult the last little bit.

	[[Image:p8181947.jpg\|150px]]		[[Image:p8181947.jpg\|150px]]
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	Once the bead seems to be seated, look for an even ring on the tire all the way around the rim. There are usually some rings molded into the tire to make this task simple. There should be an even distance between the ring and the rim all the way around. If it's not even all the way around, the bead is not fully seated.		Once the bead seems to be seated, look for an even ring on the tire all the way around the rim. There are usually some rings molded into the tire to make this task simple. There should be an even distance between the ring and the rim all the way around. If it's not even all the way around, the bead is not fully seated.

	Now, put the core back in the valve stem and fill the tire up~~. Go a little over what you normally run until you get it back on the bike. It's always easier to let some out than to add some back~~.		Now, put the core back in the valve stem and fill the tire up.

	==Balancing==		==Balancing==

Bokonon: /* Sidewall information */

2010-09-29T06:32:41Z

Sidewall information

← Older revision		Revision as of 02:32, 29 September 2010
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	[[Image:mount balance 13.JPG\|150px]]		[[Image:mount balance 13.JPG\|150px]]

	Also notice the DOT code. It's a 4-digit code that lists the week and the year the tire was made. This one is 3205, so the 32nd week of 2005. More than 3 or 4 years old and tires start to go 'off', get hard, and aren't any fun to ride on (worse than the stock Dunrocks on the 250!).		Also notice the DOT code. It's a 4-digit code that lists the week and the year the tire was made. This one is 3205, so the 32nd week of 2005. More than 3 or 4 years old and tires start to go 'off', get hard, and aren't any fun to ride on (worse than the stock Dunrocks on the 250).

	==Find the wheel's heavy point==		==Find the wheel's heavy point==

Bokonon at 06:11, 29 September 2010

2010-09-29T06:11:30Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 02:11, 29 September 2010
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	Get the shortest stem you can find. Angled ones are a bad idea (need to be replaced more often) and the screw-together metal stems can be a PITA to get to fit correctly, and to remove later when they eventually fail. It's best to just change the valve stem every 3 or 4 sets of tires. The stem is the same standard size as those used by cars. You should be able to get one at any tire retailer. They may just give it to you. Tireflies and other heavy caps will lead to premature stem failure. If you run anything but plastic caps, you'll likely be doing valve stem replacements a lot sooner.		Get the shortest stem you can find. Angled ones are a bad idea (need to be replaced more often) and the screw-together metal stems can be a PITA to get to fit correctly, and to remove later when they eventually fail. It's best to just change the valve stem every 3 or 4 sets of tires. The stem is the same standard size as those used by cars. You should be able to get one at any tire retailer. They may just give it to you. Tireflies and other heavy caps will lead to premature stem failure. If you run anything but plastic caps, you'll likely be doing valve stem replacements a lot sooner.

	At this point, check the static balance of just the rim (without the tire on it), as the valve stem never seems to be the heavy point any more. You can do this on the cheap, with the axle and a couple of jack stands. You can spend lots more money to do the same thing and never feel a difference. Don't spin the wheel; that'll just take more time to slow down. Instead, rotate the wheel 90* and let go. Do this a couple times; the heavy spot will always fall. If there isn't a heavy spot, then it won't rotate from where you let go.		==Sidewall information==

	~~[[Image~~:~~mount balance 12.JPG\|150px]]~~		It's important to note that tires are directional, due to how they're constructed. The arrow is plainly shown on the side of the tire, like this (to the left):

	~~Make note, or mark on the inside of the wheel, where the heavy spot is located. As you can see above, the valve stem is off to the right, and very much ''not'' the heavy spot~~.		[[Image:mount balance 13.JPG\|150px]]

	It's ~~important to note~~ that ~~tires are directional, due to how they're constructed~~. ~~The arrow~~ is ~~plainly shown on~~ the ~~side~~ of ~~the tire~~, ~~like this~~ (to the ~~left~~):		Also notice the DOT code. It's a 4-digit code that lists the week and the year the tire was made. This one is 3205, so the 32nd week of 2005. More than 3 or 4 years old and tires start to go 'off', get hard, and aren't any fun to ride on (worse than the stock Dunrocks on the 250!).

	~~[[Image:mount balance 13.JPG\|150px]]~~		==Find the wheel's heavy point==

	~~Also notice the DOT code. It's a 4-digit code that lists the week and the year~~ the tire ~~was made. This one is 3205, so~~ the ~~32nd week of 2005. More than 3 or 4 years old and tires start to go 'off'~~, ~~get hard, and aren't any fun~~ to ~~ride on (worse than~~ the ~~stock Dunrocks on the 250!)~~. You ~~should also look~~ for ~~a round dot, about~~ the ~~size~~ of ~~a dime, on~~ the ~~tire~~. ~~This is an indicator of~~ the ~~lightest spot on the tire from~~ the ~~manufacturer, though not all brands have this (this Avon didn't). You'll want~~ to ~~line this up with~~ the ~~heaviest spot~~ on the ~~rim that you noted earlier~~.		Before you put the tire on the rim, you need to find the wheel's heavy point. You only need to do this once for the lifetime of each wheel. Go to [[How can I balance the tires by myself?]] and do that part now. It will also tell you how to use the factory's paint mark to find the correct point to mount the tire on the wheel.

	==Mounting the new tire==		==Mounting the new tire==

			Make sure you have read the balancing article and put the "light point" mark on the tire at the heavy point of the wheel.

	When it comes time to put the new tire on, you should be able to just walk the first bead over the rim without any tools other than your body weight. If needed, you can use a rim protector, tire lube, and tire iron to help, as was needed here:		When it comes time to put the new tire on, you should be able to just walk the first bead over the rim without any tools other than your body weight. If needed, you can use a rim protector, tire lube, and tire iron to help, as was needed here:

Bokonon: /* Reattaching the wheel */

2010-09-29T04:32:12Z

Reattaching the wheel

← Older revision		Revision as of 00:32, 29 September 2010
Line 147:		Line 147:
	==Reattaching the wheel==		==Reattaching the wheel==

	~~Now~~ [[Removing/replacing the rear wheel\|~~reinstall~~ the wheel]] (exact reverse of above). Be sure to use a new cotter pin. Be sure to reattach the brake and use the [[Torque Values\|proper torque]] on everything. If the rear wheel gives you trouble, try this:		After you've balanced the wheel, you're done mounting and balancing. Time to put the wheels back on the bike and go for a ride.

			[[Removing/replacing the rear wheel\|Reinstall the wheel]] (exact reverse of above). Be sure to use a new cotter pin. Be sure to reattach the brake and use the [[Torque Values\|proper torque]] on everything. If the rear wheel gives you trouble, try this:

	Sit on the ground behind the bike. Hold the wheel up with your left hand, or your feet, and feed the axle in with your right. When it starts to hang up (and it almost always does), tap (not whack! just tap) the head of the bolt with a hammer while moving the wheel up and down a little with your left hand.		Sit on the ground behind the bike. Hold the wheel up with your left hand, or your feet, and feed the axle in with your right. When it starts to hang up (and it almost always does), tap (not whack! just tap) the head of the bolt with a hammer while moving the wheel up and down a little with your left hand.