Removing & replacing bar ends - Revision history

Bokonon: /* A couple things to think about */

2011-12-11T11:17:49Z

A couple things to think about

← Older revision		Revision as of 07:17, 11 December 2011
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	*If you find bar vibration to be a problem, and you'd like a good-looking, heavyweight bar end, look at the ones from [http://hvmp.com/ HVMP.] They are milled from solid stainless steel and come in 14 and 17 ounce models. Mounting hardware (stainless allen screws and lock washers) is included. They are $60 shipped, compared to about $40 from Ron Ayers for OEM and hardware. HVMP usually recommend the shorter 14 oz for sportbikes.		*If you find bar vibration to be a problem, and you'd like a good-looking, heavyweight bar end, look at the ones from [http://hvmp.com/ HVMP.] They are milled from solid stainless steel and come in 14 and 17 ounce models. Mounting hardware (stainless allen screws and lock washers) is included. They are $60 shipped, compared to about $40 from Ron Ayers for OEM and hardware. HVMP usually recommend the shorter 14 oz for sportbikes.

	*[http://www.manicsalamander.com/~~bar_end_weight~~.~~htm#8mmKawasaki~~ !!!MANIC Salamander] makes similar bar ends.		*[http://www.manicsalamander.com/home.aspx !!!MANIC Salamander] makes similar bar ends.

	:Here is a 17 ounce HVMP mounted on an EX250 (left) and with aftermarket ProGrips (right).		:Here is a 17 ounce HVMP mounted on an EX250 (left) and with aftermarket ProGrips (right).

IanJ: /* A couple things to think about */

2011-01-05T21:36:13Z

A couple things to think about

← Older revision		Revision as of 17:36, 5 January 2011
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	*The stock bar ends weigh five ounces (142 grams).		*The stock bar ends weigh five ounces (142 grams).

			*When you change the weight of the bar-end weights, you change the resonant frequency of the handlebars. Going to heavier bar ends will lower the frequency at which the bars buzz. This is not necessarily a good thing -- the buzz at 8k RPM is much harsher than 9k if you retune your bars there (~10 oz weights handily accomplish this; avoid 10 oz).

	*There is a set of bar ends from [http://www.murphskits.com/buzzless.htm MurphKits] for the Kawasaki Concours that are adjustable. They have an O ring that sits between the bar end weight itself and the bars. You vary the tightness of the center screw or bolt to change the rpm range where the bar ends become effective. These will most likely work on the 250, but contact them before you order.		*There is a set of bar ends from [http://www.murphskits.com/buzzless.htm MurphKits] for the Kawasaki Concours that are adjustable. They have an O ring that sits between the bar end weight itself and the bars. You vary the tightness of the center screw or bolt to change the rpm range where the bar ends become effective. These will most likely work on the 250, but contact them before you order.

Bokonon at 06:08, 31 July 2010

2010-07-31T06:08:48Z

Bokonon: /* A couple things to think about */

2010-06-18T21:57:53Z

A couple things to think about

← Older revision		Revision as of 17:57, 18 June 2010
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	*On the Concours there are a set of bar ends from [http://www.murphskits.com/buzzless.htm MurphKits] that are adjustable. They have an O ring that sits between the bar end weight itself and the bars. You vary the tightness of the center screw or bolt to change the RPM range that the bar ends become effective. These will most likely work on the 250, but contact them before you order.		*On the Concours there are a set of bar ends from [http://www.murphskits.com/buzzless.htm MurphKits] that are adjustable. They have an O ring that sits between the bar end weight itself and the bars. You vary the tightness of the center screw or bolt to change the RPM range that the bar ends become effective. These will most likely work on the 250, but contact them before you order.

	*If you find bar vibration to be a problem, and you'd like a good-looking, heavyweight bar end, look at the ones from [http://hvmp.com/ HVMP.] They are milled from solid stainless steel, and come in 14 and 17 ounce models. Mounting hardware (stainless allen screws and lock washers) is included. They are $60 shipped, compared to about $40 from Ron Ayers for OEM and hardware.		*If you find bar vibration to be a problem, and you'd like a good-looking, heavyweight bar end, look at the ones from [http://hvmp.com/ HVMP.] They are milled from solid stainless steel, and come in 14 and 17 ounce models. Mounting hardware (stainless allen screws and lock washers) is included. They are $60 shipped, compared to about $40 from Ron Ayers for OEM and hardware. HVMP usually recommend the shorter 14 oz for sportbikes.

	*[http://www.manicsalamander.com/bar_end_weight.htm#8mmKawasaki !!!MANIC Salamander] makes similar bar ends.		*[http://www.manicsalamander.com/bar_end_weight.htm#8mmKawasaki !!!MANIC Salamander] makes similar bar ends.

Bokonon: /* A couple things to think about */

2009-07-21T06:33:47Z

A couple things to think about

← Older revision		Revision as of 02:33, 21 July 2009
Line 79:		Line 79:

	*If you find bar vibration to be a problem, and you'd like a good-looking, heavyweight bar end, look at the ones from [http://hvmp.com/ HVMP.] They are milled from solid stainless steel, and come in 14 and 17 ounce models. Mounting hardware (stainless allen screws and lock washers) is included. They are $60 shipped, compared to about $40 from Ron Ayers for OEM and hardware.		*If you find bar vibration to be a problem, and you'd like a good-looking, heavyweight bar end, look at the ones from [http://hvmp.com/ HVMP.] They are milled from solid stainless steel, and come in 14 and 17 ounce models. Mounting hardware (stainless allen screws and lock washers) is included. They are $60 shipped, compared to about $40 from Ron Ayers for OEM and hardware.

			*[http://www.manicsalamander.com/bar_end_weight.htm#8mmKawasaki !!!MANIC Salamander] makes similar bar ends.

	:Here is a 17 ounce HVMP mounted on an EX250 (left) and with aftermarket ProGrips (right).		:Here is a 17 ounce HVMP mounted on an EX250 (left) and with aftermarket ProGrips (right).

Bokonon at 10:26, 1 March 2009

2009-03-01T10:26:58Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 06:26, 1 March 2009
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	[[Category:Bodywork & Frame]]		[[Category:Bodywork & Frame]]
	====Removal====		==Removal==

	The first, and hardest, thing to do when putting on new bar ends is removing the old ones. This can either be nightmarishly difficult or a walk in the park. It may depend on which Loctite application guy was on shift when your bike was assembled. Kawasaki puts red (permanent) Loctite on the bar ends. We don't know why.		The first, and hardest, thing to do when putting on new bar ends is removing the old ones. This can either be nightmarishly difficult or a walk in the park. It may depend on which Loctite application guy was on shift when your bike was assembled. Kawasaki puts red (permanent) Loctite on the bar ends. We don't know why.
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	====Extracting the bolts====		====Extracting the bolts====

	*Make sure the screwdriver you are using is as nearly new as possible. Look at the tip of it and make sure you can see NO rounding or notching of any kind. The less it bites, the more of your force is wasted trying to press it into the bolt head in the first place.		Make sure the screwdriver you are using is as nearly new as possible. Look at the tip of it and make sure you can see NO rounding or notching of any kind. The less it bites, the more of your force is wasted trying to press it into the bolt head in the first place.

	*If turning with a screwdriver doesn't work, there are a lot of other methods listed below, but you could just save yourself some time right off the bat and drill the head off the bolt. Many people have tried some of the other ways and ended up doing just that in the end. You're going to replace the bolt with an Allen-head one, anyway. Yes, you are.		If turning with a screwdriver doesn't work, there are a lot of other methods listed below, but you could just save yourself some time right off the bat and drill the head off the bolt. Many people have tried some of the other ways and ended up doing just that in the end. You're going to replace the bolt with an Allen-head one, anyway. Yes, you are.

	:Get a 1/4" cobalt drill bit (or any kind of bit designed for drilling in metal) from any hardware store, and drill straight through the center of the head. The head will pop off and the bar end will slide right off.		Get a 1/4" cobalt drill bit (or any kind of bit designed for drilling in metal) from any hardware store, and drill straight through the center of the head. The head will pop off and the bar end will slide right off.

	:[[image:drill bolt head.jpg\|100px]]		[[image:drill bolt head.jpg\|100px]]

	:From there, clamp a vise-grips onto the remaining part of the bolt and turn it out, perhaps using one of the heat methods below to assist.		From there, clamp a vise-grips onto the remaining part of the bolt and turn it out, perhaps using one of the heat methods below to assist.

	====Replacing the bolts====		====Replacing the bolts====
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	Anything you can do to soften things up before you start wrenching on that bolt will definitely help.		Anything you can do to soften things up before you start wrenching on that bolt will definitely help.

	====Finding new bar ends====		==Finding new bar ends==

	All bar ends are not created equal. The bar ends on the EX250 are designed for solid bars. Many bikes have hollow bars that use an expanding rubber thingy to hold them on. ZX-10Rs and some others have completely weird bar ends that actually screw into the bar.		All bar ends are not created equal. The bar ends on the EX250 are designed for solid bars. Many bikes have hollow bars that use an expanding rubber thingy to hold them on. ZX-10Rs and some others have completely weird bar ends that actually screw into the bar.
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	The stock bar ends are steel and seem quite crash-resistant. Many aftermarket bar ends are aluminium and grind away during a crash. Grinding away means crash energy is being used up, and your bike still works fine without nice bar ends. That said, the stock bar ends are also quite long and help to preserve the tips of your levers. Take your pick, and try not to crash.		The stock bar ends are steel and seem quite crash-resistant. Many aftermarket bar ends are aluminium and grind away during a crash. Grinding away means crash energy is being used up, and your bike still works fine without nice bar ends. That said, the stock bar ends are also quite long and help to preserve the tips of your levers. Take your pick, and try not to crash.

	====A couple things to think about====		==A couple things to think about==

	*The purpose of the bar ends is to dampen the vibration of the handlebars. This is one place where weight is a good thing. Most of the aftermarket ends are made from aluminum, or even a kind of nylon-ish plastic. Those may not be heavy enough to do the job they are supposed to do as well as the OEM product. They do come in pretty colors, though. eBay is a good place to look.		*The purpose of the bar ends is to dampen the vibration of the handlebars. This is one place where weight is a good thing. Most of the aftermarket ends are made from aluminum, or even a kind of nylon-ish plastic. Those may not be heavy enough to do the job they are supposed to do as well as the OEM product. They do come in pretty colors, though. eBay is a good place to look.

Bokonon: /* Extracting the bolts */

2009-03-01T10:23:58Z

Extracting the bolts

← Older revision		Revision as of 06:23, 1 March 2009
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	:[[image:drill bolt head.jpg\|100px]]		:[[image:drill bolt head.jpg\|100px]]

	From there, clamp a vise-grips onto the remaining part of the bolt and turn it out, perhaps using one of the heat methods below to assist.		:From there, clamp a vise-grips onto the remaining part of the bolt and turn it out, perhaps using one of the heat methods below to assist.

	~~'''~~Replacing the bolts~~'''~~		====Replacing the bolts====

	When you're looking for replacements, go to Ace Hardware or the equivalent and get two hex (Allen) head bolts (instead of the Phillips). You should be able to hunt them down at your big-box hardware supply, too. Bring your bar ends and the old bolts with you to see how they fit. A standard size is: m8, 1.25, 50 mm long. Yours might be a different length, depending on your new bar end, but the diameter [m8] and the pitch (1.25) should be the same. Get chrome or stainless if you can.		When you're looking for replacements, go to Ace Hardware or the equivalent and get two hex (Allen) head bolts (instead of the Phillips). You should be able to hunt them down at your big-box hardware supply, too. Bring your bar ends and the old bolts with you to see how they fit. A standard size is: m8, 1.25, 50 mm long. Yours might be a different length, depending on your new bar end, but the diameter [m8] and the pitch (1.25) should be the same. Get chrome or stainless if you can.

Bokonon: /* Finding new bar ends */

2009-03-01T10:21:42Z

Finding new bar ends

← Older revision		Revision as of 06:21, 1 March 2009
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	All bar ends are not created equal. The bar ends on the EX250 are designed for solid bars. Many bikes have hollow bars that use an expanding rubber thingy to hold them on. ZX-10Rs and some others have completely weird bar ends that actually screw into the bar.		All bar ends are not created equal. The bar ends on the EX250 are designed for solid bars. Many bikes have hollow bars that use an expanding rubber thingy to hold them on. ZX-10Rs and some others have completely weird bar ends that actually screw into the bar.

	Our bars aren't solid, but they DO have a tapped end as though they WERE solid. Also, HD and knock-offs have 1" bars, whereas the rest of the world uses 7/8" bars. Most Kawasaki sport bike bar ends will fit. HOWEVER, the "lip" at the end of the bar end on our bikes ~~seem~~ to be unique to the EX250 and EX500. This means that if you use anything not designed for one of these two bikes ~~that~~ you will have a little gap between the grip and the bar end, unless you do a little bit of monkeying around to remove it (and it will never be perfect). See photo below:		Our bars aren't solid, but they DO have a tapped end as though they WERE solid. Also, HD and knock-offs have 1" bars, whereas the rest of the world uses 7/8" bars. Most Kawasaki sport bike bar ends will fit. HOWEVER, the "lip" at the end of the bar end on our bikes seems to be unique to the EX250 and EX500. This means that if you use anything not designed for one of these two bikes you will have a little gap between the grip and the bar end, unless you do a little bit of monkeying around to remove it (and it will never be perfect). See photo below:

	[[Image:bar end gap.jpg\|150px]]		[[Image:bar end gap.jpg\|150px]]

Bokonon at 09:51, 1 March 2009

2009-03-01T09:51:04Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 05:51, 1 March 2009
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	[[image:red threadlock.jpg\|150px]]		[[image:red threadlock.jpg\|150px]]

	~~'''Here are a few tips for extracting~~ the ~~bolt:'''~~		====Extracting the bolts====

	*Make sure the screwdriver you are using is as nearly new as possible. Look at the tip of it and make sure you can see NO rounding or notching of any kind. The less it bites, the more of your force is wasted trying to press it into the bolt head in the first place.		*Make sure the screwdriver you are using is as nearly new as possible. Look at the tip of it and make sure you can see NO rounding or notching of any kind. The less it bites, the more of your force is wasted trying to press it into the bolt head in the first place.

	*If ~~the first step~~ doesn't work, there are a lot of other methods listed below, but you could just save yourself some time right off the bat and drill the head off the bolt. Many people have tried some of the other ways and ended up doing just that in the end. You're going to replace the bolt with an Allen-head one, anyway. Yes, you are.		*If turning with a screwdriver doesn't work, there are a lot of other methods listed below, but you could just save yourself some time right off the bat and drill the head off the bolt. Many people have tried some of the other ways and ended up doing just that in the end. You're going to replace the bolt with an Allen-head one, anyway. Yes, you are.

	:Get a 1/4" cobalt drill bit (or any kind of bit designed for drilling in metal) from any hardware store, and drill straight through the head. The head will pop off and the bar end will slide right off.		:Get a 1/4" cobalt drill bit (or any kind of bit designed for drilling in metal) from any hardware store, and drill straight through the center of the head. The head will pop off and the bar end will slide right off.

	:[[image:drill bolt head.jpg\|100px]]		:[[image:drill bolt head.jpg\|100px]]
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	From there, clamp a vise-grips onto the remaining part of the bolt and turn it out, perhaps using one of the heat methods below to assist.		From there, clamp a vise-grips onto the remaining part of the bolt and turn it out, perhaps using one of the heat methods below to assist.

	'''~~Other things to try~~'''		'''Replacing the bolts'''

			When you're looking for replacements, go to Ace Hardware or the equivalent and get two hex (Allen) head bolts (instead of the Phillips). You should be able to hunt them down at your big-box hardware supply, too. Bring your bar ends and the old bolts with you to see how they fit. A standard size is: m8, 1.25, 50 mm long. Yours might be a different length, depending on your new bar end, but the diameter [m8] and the pitch (1.25) should be the same. Get chrome or stainless if you can.

			====Alternate bolt removal methods====

			*If you strip a bolt head during this process, [[I need to remove a stripped screw\|see this FAQ page.]]

	*An impact driver takes the force of a hammer and turns it into rotary torque. This is a very useful tool, especially for older vehicles with stubborn fasteners. Can usually be used for screws or nuts/bolts.		*An impact driver takes the force of a hammer and turns it into rotary torque. This is a very useful tool, especially for older vehicles with stubborn fasteners. Can usually be used for screws or nuts/bolts.
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	*This will sometimes help crack the bolt loose: Find a piece of rubber, like an old piece of heater hose or garden hose, and split it up the side. Put that over the bar end to protect it from scratching. Then clamp the bar end with a large pair of vise grips. Now turn the bar end and the bolt at the same time.		*This will sometimes help crack the bolt loose: Find a piece of rubber, like an old piece of heater hose or garden hose, and split it up the side. Put that over the bar end to protect it from scratching. Then clamp the bar end with a large pair of vise grips. Now turn the bar end and the bolt at the same time.

	*If you do strip a bolt head during this process, [[I need to remove a stripped screw\|see this FAQ page.]]

	*For the budget-conscious: Soak the bar end first for half an hour, using a ziplock bag filled with hot water. Turn the entire front end so the bar end you are working on is as low to the ground as it can go, and rubber band the bag onto the bar end. Next, cut a cross section of a bicycle inner tube and put it around the bar end. Attach vise grips very strongly and turn. This should get some movement. Now, impact drive with a sharp phillips head.		*For the budget-conscious: Soak the bar end first for half an hour, using a ziplock bag filled with hot water. Turn the entire front end so the bar end you are working on is as low to the ground as it can go, and rubber band the bag onto the bar end. Next, cut a cross section of a bicycle inner tube and put it around the bar end. Attach vise grips very strongly and turn. This should get some movement. Now, impact drive with a sharp phillips head.
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	Anything you can do to soften things up before you start wrenching on that bolt will definitely help.		Anything you can do to soften things up before you start wrenching on that bolt will definitely help.

	'''When you're looking for replacement screws''', go to Ace Hardware or the equivalent and get two hex (Allen) head bolts (instead of the Phillips). You should be able to hunt them down at your big-box hardware supply, too. Bring your bar ends and the old bolts with you to see how they fit. A standard size is: m8, 1.25, 50 mm long. Yours might be a different length, depending on your new bar end, but the diameter [m8] and the pitch (1.25) should be the same. Get chrome or stainless if you can.

	====Finding new bar ends====		====Finding new bar ends====
Line 68:		Line 70:
	The stock bar ends are steel and seem quite crash-resistant. Many aftermarket bar ends are aluminium and grind away during a crash. Grinding away means crash energy is being used up, and your bike still works fine without nice bar ends. That said, the stock bar ends are also quite long and help to preserve the tips of your levers. Take your pick, and try not to crash.		The stock bar ends are steel and seem quite crash-resistant. Many aftermarket bar ends are aluminium and grind away during a crash. Grinding away means crash energy is being used up, and your bike still works fine without nice bar ends. That said, the stock bar ends are also quite long and help to preserve the tips of your levers. Take your pick, and try not to crash.

	~~'''~~A couple things to think about~~:'''~~		====A couple things to think about====

	*The purpose of the bar ends is to dampen the vibration of the handlebars. This is one place where weight is a good thing. Most of the aftermarket ends are made from aluminum, or even a kind of nylon-ish plastic. Those may not be heavy enough to do the job they are supposed to do as well as the OEM product. They do come in pretty colors, though. eBay is a good place to look.		*The purpose of the bar ends is to dampen the vibration of the handlebars. This is one place where weight is a good thing. Most of the aftermarket ends are made from aluminum, or even a kind of nylon-ish plastic. Those may not be heavy enough to do the job they are supposed to do as well as the OEM product. They do come in pretty colors, though. eBay is a good place to look.
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	*'''Remember~~, when~~ you replace your bar ends, use allen-head bolts, which are much easier to remove.'''		*'''Remember: When you replace your bar ends, use allen-head bolts, which are much easier to remove.'''

Bokonon at 09:38, 1 March 2009

2009-03-01T09:38:56Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 05:38, 1 March 2009
Line 20:		Line 20:
	:Get a 1/4" cobalt drill bit (or any kind of bit designed for drilling in metal) from any hardware store, and drill straight through the head. The head will pop off and the bar end will slide right off.		:Get a 1/4" cobalt drill bit (or any kind of bit designed for drilling in metal) from any hardware store, and drill straight through the head. The head will pop off and the bar end will slide right off.

	:[[image:drill bolt head.jpg\|~~150px~~]]		:[[image:drill bolt head.jpg\|100px]]

	From there, clamp a vise-grips onto the remaining part of the bolt and turn it out, perhaps using one of the heat methods below to assist.		From there, clamp a vise-grips onto the remaining part of the bolt and turn it out, perhaps using one of the heat methods below to assist.

← Older revision		Revision as of 02:08, 31 July 2010
Line 26:		Line 26:
	====Replacing the bolts====		====Replacing the bolts====

	When you're looking for replacements, go to Ace Hardware or the equivalent and get two hex (Allen) head bolts ~~(instead of~~ the Phillips)~~. You should be able to hunt them down at your big-box hardware supply, too~~. Bring your bar ends and the old bolts with you to see how they fit. A standard size is: m8, 1.25, 50 mm long. Yours might be a different length, depending on your new bar end, but the diameter [m8] and the pitch (1.25) should be the same. Get chrome or stainless if you can.		When you're looking for replacements, go to Ace Hardware or the equivalent and get two hex (Allen) head bolts to replace the Phillips). Bring your bar ends and the old bolts with you to see how they fit. A standard size is: m8, 1.25, 50 mm long. Yours might be a different length, depending on your new bar end, but the diameter (m8) and the pitch (1.25) should be the same. Get chrome or stainless if you can.

	====Alternate bolt removal methods====		====Alternate bolt removal methods====
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	All bar ends are not created equal. The bar ends on the EX250 are designed for solid bars. Many bikes have hollow bars that use an expanding rubber thingy to hold them on. ZX-10Rs and some others have completely weird bar ends that actually screw into the bar.		All bar ends are not created equal. The bar ends on the EX250 are designed for solid bars. Many bikes have hollow bars that use an expanding rubber thingy to hold them on. ZX-10Rs and some others have completely weird bar ends that actually screw into the bar.

	Our bars aren't solid, but they DO have a tapped end as though they ~~WERE~~ solid. Also, HD and knock-offs have 1" bars, whereas the rest of the world uses 7/8" bars. Most Kawasaki sport bike bar ends will fit. HOWEVER, the "lip" at the end of the bar end on our bikes seems to be unique to the EX250 and EX500. This means that if you use anything not designed for one of these two bikes you will have a little gap between the grip and the bar end, unless you do a little bit of monkeying around to remove it (and it will never be perfect). See photo below:		Our bars aren't solid, but they do have a tapped end as though they were solid. Also, H-D bikes and knock-offs have 1" bars, whereas the rest of the world uses 7/8" bars. Most Kawasaki sport bike bar ends will fit. HOWEVER, the "lip" at the end of the bar end on our bikes seems to be unique to the EX250 and EX500. This means that if you use anything not designed for one of these two bikes you will have a little gap between the grip and the bar end, unless you do a little bit of monkeying around to remove it (and it will never be perfect). See photo below:

	[[Image:bar end gap.jpg\|150px]]		[[Image:bar end gap.jpg\|150px]]
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	*The stock bar ends weigh five ounces (142 grams).		*The stock bar ends weigh five ounces (142 grams).

	*~~On the Concours there are~~ a set of bar ends from [http://www.murphskits.com/buzzless.htm MurphKits] that are adjustable. They have an O ring that sits between the bar end weight itself and the bars. You vary the tightness of the center screw or bolt to change the ~~RPM~~ range ~~that~~ the bar ends become effective. These will most likely work on the 250, but contact them before you order.		*There is a set of bar ends from [http://www.murphskits.com/buzzless.htm MurphKits] for the Kawasaki Concours that are adjustable. They have an O ring that sits between the bar end weight itself and the bars. You vary the tightness of the center screw or bolt to change the rpm range where the bar ends become effective. These will most likely work on the 250, but contact them before you order.

	*If you find bar vibration to be a problem, and you'd like a good-looking, heavyweight bar end, look at the ones from [http://hvmp.com/ HVMP.] They are milled from solid stainless steel, and come in 14 and 17 ounce models. Mounting hardware (stainless allen screws and lock washers) is included. They are $60 shipped, compared to about $40 from Ron Ayers for OEM and hardware. HVMP usually recommend the shorter 14 oz for sportbikes.		*If you find bar vibration to be a problem, and you'd like a good-looking, heavyweight bar end, look at the ones from [http://hvmp.com/ HVMP.] They are milled from solid stainless steel and come in 14 and 17 ounce models. Mounting hardware (stainless allen screws and lock washers) is included. They are $60 shipped, compared to about $40 from Ron Ayers for OEM and hardware. HVMP usually recommend the shorter 14 oz for sportbikes.

	*[http://www.manicsalamander.com/bar_end_weight.htm#8mmKawasaki !!!MANIC Salamander] makes similar bar ends.		*[http://www.manicsalamander.com/bar_end_weight.htm#8mmKawasaki !!!MANIC Salamander] makes similar bar ends.
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	*'''Remember: When you replace your bar ends, use allen-head bolts, which are much easier to remove.~~'''~~		*'''Remember''': When you replace your bar ends, use allen-head bolts, which are much easier to remove.