Replacing body fasteners/bolts - Revision history

Bokonon at 23:06, 30 July 2010

2010-07-30T23:06:01Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:06, 30 July 2010
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	__TOC__		__TOC__

	So, your bike is getting on in years ~~(and~~, ~~if it~~'~~s a 250F, it may have~~ been ~~that way when you bought~~ it), the body panels have been off many times for various reasons, and the fasteners look like the finish on your neighbor's '74 Nova. It's pretty easy to replace them with new, stainless steel bolts that will bring back some pride of ownership and that new-bike feel.		So, your bike is getting on in years, previous owners haven't been terribly kind to it, the body panels have been off many times for various reasons, and the fasteners look like the finish on your neighbor's '74 Nova. It's pretty easy to replace them with new, stainless steel bolts that will bring back some pride of ownership and that new-bike feel.

	====Stainless steel body bolts====		====Stainless steel body bolts====

Bokonon: /* Stainless steel body bolts */

2010-04-13T08:45:15Z

Stainless steel body bolts

← Older revision		Revision as of 04:45, 13 April 2010
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	'''Disclaimer first, AND PAY ATTENTION''': The bolts that go from the upper fairing into the gas tank are very size-sensitive. We recommend using only OEM Kawasaki bolts in that application. On older bikes, if you used one of the bolts from the bottom in the top fairing hole, you would puncture the tank, making it leak gas and making you replace it. [[How do I remove the fairing, fuel tank, etc?\|See here]] for more info on this. Certainly don't use anything longer than the OEM length of [http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/Module/Main/TypeID/26/Type/Motorcycle/MakeID/3/Make/Kawasaki/YearID/47/Year/2006/ModelID/4185/Model/Ninja_250R/GroupID/132458/Group/Cowling%281/2%29 6x18]. </disclaimer>		'''Disclaimer first, AND PAY ATTENTION''': The bolts that go from the upper fairing into the gas tank are very size-sensitive. We recommend using only OEM Kawasaki bolts in that application. On older bikes, if you used one of the bolts from the bottom in the top fairing hole, you would puncture the tank, making it leak gas and making you replace it. [[How do I remove the fairing, fuel tank, etc?\|See here]] for more info on this. Certainly don't use anything longer than the OEM length of [http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/Module/Main/TypeID/26/Type/Motorcycle/MakeID/3/Make/Kawasaki/YearID/47/Year/2006/ModelID/4185/Model/Ninja_250R/GroupID/132458/Group/Cowling%281/2%29 6x18]. </disclaimer>

	The stock body fasteners are not made from the highest quality metals known to man and are known to strip. The Murphs' ones are stainless steel button-head hex screws blackened for looks. They work like a charm, no matter how many times you take the plastics off. Each bolt includes a washer and ~~has~~ a neoprene ~~backing~~. This kit replaces the usual strippable-by-looking-at-them Philips head bolts with infinitely superior hex (Allen) heads.		The stock body fasteners are not made from the highest quality metals known to man and are known to strip. The Murphs' ones are stainless steel button-head hex screws blackened for looks. They work like a charm, no matter how many times you take the plastics off. Each bolt includes a metal washer and a neoprene washer. This kit replaces the usual strippable-by-looking-at-them Philips head bolts with infinitely superior hex (Allen) heads.

	To make a bodywork fastener kit for the Ninja 250, you will need 15 each 6x20mm bolts, 1 each 5x15 bolt and 2 each 6x25mm bolts for the upper and lower fairings. Plus 6 each 5x15 bolts for the Windshield. This breaks down into:		To make a bodywork fastener kit for the Ninja 250, you will need 15 each 6x20mm bolts, 1 each 5x15 bolt and 2 each 6x25mm bolts for the upper and lower fairings. Plus 6 each 5x15 bolts for the Windshield. This breaks down into:
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	* 2 - 6x25mm Side Covers (6x28mm stock)		* 2 - 6x25mm Side Covers (6x28mm stock)
	* 0 - 6x18mm Upper Fairing to Tank – These were left stock, as they were already Allen head. See warning above.		* 0 - 6x18mm Upper Fairing to Tank – These were left stock, as they were already Allen head. See warning above.

			The photo below shows the bolts used for this article.

			[[image:IMGP4249.JPG\|150px]]

			Installed photos

	[[image:IMGP4237.JPG\|150px]]		[[image:IMGP4237.JPG\|150px]]

Bokonon: /* Stainless steel body bolts */

2010-04-11T08:16:18Z

Stainless steel body bolts

← Older revision		Revision as of 04:16, 11 April 2010
Line 24:		Line 24:
	* 0 - 6x18mm Upper Fairing to Tank – These were left stock, as they were already Allen head. See warning above.		* 0 - 6x18mm Upper Fairing to Tank – These were left stock, as they were already Allen head. See warning above.

	[[image:~~IMGP4239~~.JPG\|150px]]		[[image:IMGP4237.JPG\|150px]]
	[[image:IMGP4244.JPG\|150px]]		[[image:IMGP4244.JPG\|150px]]

Bokonon: /* Other Concours Kits Available */

2010-04-11T06:57:56Z

Other Concours Kits Available

← Older revision		Revision as of 02:57, 11 April 2010
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	====Other Concours Kits Available====		====Other Concours Kits Available====

	These Concours kits will work for Ninja 250. The sizes are the same; you just won't use the entire kit. You might not want to spend the money unless you have some rust and want to dress things up with a non-rusting model.		These Concours kits will work for the Ninja 250. The sizes are the same; you just won't use the entire kit. You might not want to spend the money unless you have some rust and want to dress things up with a non-rusting model.

	*[http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1_95&products_id=126 Tank and Cylinder Kit] – Use the 1994-2006 kit. You will get the 7 screws for the tank filler and the small screws for 2 master cylinders, as the Connie has both brake and clutch master cylinders. You'll have spares.		*[http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1_95&products_id=126 Tank and Cylinder Kit] – Use the 1994-2006 kit. You will get the 7 screws for the tank filler and the small screws for 2 master cylinders, as the Connie has both brake and clutch master cylinders. You'll have spares.

Bokonon: /* Stainless steel body bolts */

2010-04-11T06:50:25Z

Stainless steel body bolts

← Older revision		Revision as of 02:50, 11 April 2010
Line 10:		Line 10:
	'''Disclaimer first, AND PAY ATTENTION''': The bolts that go from the upper fairing into the gas tank are very size-sensitive. We recommend using only OEM Kawasaki bolts in that application. On older bikes, if you used one of the bolts from the bottom in the top fairing hole, you would puncture the tank, making it leak gas and making you replace it. [[How do I remove the fairing, fuel tank, etc?\|See here]] for more info on this. Certainly don't use anything longer than the OEM length of [http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/Module/Main/TypeID/26/Type/Motorcycle/MakeID/3/Make/Kawasaki/YearID/47/Year/2006/ModelID/4185/Model/Ninja_250R/GroupID/132458/Group/Cowling%281/2%29 6x18]. </disclaimer>		'''Disclaimer first, AND PAY ATTENTION''': The bolts that go from the upper fairing into the gas tank are very size-sensitive. We recommend using only OEM Kawasaki bolts in that application. On older bikes, if you used one of the bolts from the bottom in the top fairing hole, you would puncture the tank, making it leak gas and making you replace it. [[How do I remove the fairing, fuel tank, etc?\|See here]] for more info on this. Certainly don't use anything longer than the OEM length of [http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/Module/Main/TypeID/26/Type/Motorcycle/MakeID/3/Make/Kawasaki/YearID/47/Year/2006/ModelID/4185/Model/Ninja_250R/GroupID/132458/Group/Cowling%281/2%29 6x18]. </disclaimer>

	The stock body fasteners are not made from the highest quality metals known to man and are known to strip. The Murphs' ones are stainless steel button-head hex screws blackened for looks. They work like a charm, no matter how many times you take the plastics off~~. Whatever process is used works well and lasts a long time~~. Each bolt includes a washer and has a neoprene backing. This kit replaces the usual strippable-by-looking-at-them Philips head bolts with infinitely superior hex heads.		The stock body fasteners are not made from the highest quality metals known to man and are known to strip. The Murphs' ones are stainless steel button-head hex screws blackened for looks. They work like a charm, no matter how many times you take the plastics off. Each bolt includes a washer and has a neoprene backing. This kit replaces the usual strippable-by-looking-at-them Philips head bolts with infinitely superior hex (Allen) heads.

	To make a bodywork fastener kit for the Ninja 250, you will need 15 each 6x20mm bolts, 1 each 5x15 bolt and 2 each 6x25mm bolts for the upper and lower fairings. Plus 6 each 5x15 bolts for the Windshield. This breaks down into:		To make a bodywork fastener kit for the Ninja 250, you will need 15 each 6x20mm bolts, 1 each 5x15 bolt and 2 each 6x25mm bolts for the upper and lower fairings. Plus 6 each 5x15 bolts for the Windshield. This breaks down into:

Bokonon: /* Stainless steel body bolts */

2010-04-11T06:46:11Z

Stainless steel body bolts

← Older revision		Revision as of 02:46, 11 April 2010
Line 10:		Line 10:
	'''Disclaimer first, AND PAY ATTENTION''': The bolts that go from the upper fairing into the gas tank are very size-sensitive. We recommend using only OEM Kawasaki bolts in that application. On older bikes, if you used one of the bolts from the bottom in the top fairing hole, you would puncture the tank, making it leak gas and making you replace it. [[How do I remove the fairing, fuel tank, etc?\|See here]] for more info on this. Certainly don't use anything longer than the OEM length of [http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/Module/Main/TypeID/26/Type/Motorcycle/MakeID/3/Make/Kawasaki/YearID/47/Year/2006/ModelID/4185/Model/Ninja_250R/GroupID/132458/Group/Cowling%281/2%29 6x18]. </disclaimer>		'''Disclaimer first, AND PAY ATTENTION''': The bolts that go from the upper fairing into the gas tank are very size-sensitive. We recommend using only OEM Kawasaki bolts in that application. On older bikes, if you used one of the bolts from the bottom in the top fairing hole, you would puncture the tank, making it leak gas and making you replace it. [[How do I remove the fairing, fuel tank, etc?\|See here]] for more info on this. Certainly don't use anything longer than the OEM length of [http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/Module/Main/TypeID/26/Type/Motorcycle/MakeID/3/Make/Kawasaki/YearID/47/Year/2006/ModelID/4185/Model/Ninja_250R/GroupID/132458/Group/Cowling%281/2%29 6x18]. </disclaimer>

	The stock body fasteners are not made from the highest quality metals known to man and are known to strip. The ~~new~~ stainless ~~ones~~ work like a charm, no matter how many times you take the plastics off~~. These are stainless steel button-head hex screws blackened for looks~~. Whatever process is used works well and lasts a long time~~. Our man has had no issues in years of use on his Connie~~. Each ~~screw~~ includes a washer and has a neoprene backing. This kit replaces the usual strippable-by-looking-at-them Philips head bolts with infinitely superior hex heads.		The stock body fasteners are not made from the highest quality metals known to man and are known to strip. The Murphs' ones are stainless steel button-head hex screws blackened for looks. They work like a charm, no matter how many times you take the plastics off. Whatever process is used works well and lasts a long time. Each bolt includes a washer and has a neoprene backing. This kit replaces the usual strippable-by-looking-at-them Philips head bolts with infinitely superior hex heads.

	To make a bodywork fastener kit for the Ninja 250, you will need 15 each 6x20mm bolts, 1 each 5x15 bolt and 2 each 6x25mm bolts for the upper and lower fairings. Plus 6 each 5x15 bolts for the Windshield. This breaks down into:		To make a bodywork fastener kit for the Ninja 250, you will need 15 each 6x20mm bolts, 1 each 5x15 bolt and 2 each 6x25mm bolts for the upper and lower fairings. Plus 6 each 5x15 bolts for the Windshield. This breaks down into:

Bokonon at 06:43, 11 April 2010

2010-04-11T06:43:29Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 02:43, 11 April 2010
Line 10:		Line 10:
	'''Disclaimer first, AND PAY ATTENTION''': The bolts that go from the upper fairing into the gas tank are very size-sensitive. We recommend using only OEM Kawasaki bolts in that application. On older bikes, if you used one of the bolts from the bottom in the top fairing hole, you would puncture the tank, making it leak gas and making you replace it. [[How do I remove the fairing, fuel tank, etc?\|See here]] for more info on this. Certainly don't use anything longer than the OEM length of [http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/Module/Main/TypeID/26/Type/Motorcycle/MakeID/3/Make/Kawasaki/YearID/47/Year/2006/ModelID/4185/Model/Ninja_250R/GroupID/132458/Group/Cowling%281/2%29 6x18]. </disclaimer>		'''Disclaimer first, AND PAY ATTENTION''': The bolts that go from the upper fairing into the gas tank are very size-sensitive. We recommend using only OEM Kawasaki bolts in that application. On older bikes, if you used one of the bolts from the bottom in the top fairing hole, you would puncture the tank, making it leak gas and making you replace it. [[How do I remove the fairing, fuel tank, etc?\|See here]] for more info on this. Certainly don't use anything longer than the OEM length of [http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/Module/Main/TypeID/26/Type/Motorcycle/MakeID/3/Make/Kawasaki/YearID/47/Year/2006/ModelID/4185/Model/Ninja_250R/GroupID/132458/Group/Cowling%281/2%29 6x18]. </disclaimer>

	The stock body fasteners are not made from the highest quality metals known to man and are known to strip. ~~These~~ work like a charm, no matter how many times you take the plastics off. These are stainless steel button-head hex screws blackened for looks. Whatever process is used works well and lasts a long time. Our man has had no issues in years of use on his Connie. Each screw includes a washer and has a neoprene backing. This kit replaces the usual strippable-by-looking-at-them Philips head bolts with infinitely superior hex heads.		The stock body fasteners are not made from the highest quality metals known to man and are known to strip. The new stainless ones work like a charm, no matter how many times you take the plastics off. These are stainless steel button-head hex screws blackened for looks. Whatever process is used works well and lasts a long time. Our man has had no issues in years of use on his Connie. Each screw includes a washer and has a neoprene backing. This kit replaces the usual strippable-by-looking-at-them Philips head bolts with infinitely superior hex heads.

	To make a bodywork fastener kit for the Ninja 250, you will need 15 each 6x20mm bolts, 1 each 5x15 bolt and 2 each 6x25mm bolts for the upper and lower fairings. Plus 6 each 5x15 bolts for the Windshield. This breaks down into:		To make a bodywork fastener kit for the Ninja 250, you will need 15 each 6x20mm bolts, 1 each 5x15 bolt and 2 each 6x25mm bolts for the upper and lower fairings. Plus 6 each 5x15 bolts for the Windshield. This breaks down into:

Bokonon at 06:41, 11 April 2010

2010-04-11T06:41:59Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 02:41, 11 April 2010
Line 16:		Line 16:
	* 6 - 5x15mm Windshield (5x12mm stock)		* 6 - 5x15mm Windshield (5x12mm stock)
	* 1 - 5x15mm Lower Fairing, Front Screen (5x18mm stock)		* 1 - 5x15mm Lower Fairing, Front Screen (5x18mm stock)
	* 4 - 6x20mm Upper Fairing, Inner Panel (6x18mm stock)		* 4 - 6x20mm Upper Fairing, Inner Panel (6x18mm stock)('''not''' fairing-to-tank)
	* 4 - 6x20mm Front Turn Signals (6x18mm stock)		* 4 - 6x20mm Front Turn Signals (6x18mm stock)
	* 4 - 6x20mm Upper Fairing to Lower Fairing (6x18mm stock)		* 4 - 6x20mm Upper Fairing to Lower Fairing (6x18mm stock)

Bokonon: /* Stainless steel body bolts */

2010-04-11T06:34:45Z

Stainless steel body bolts

← Older revision		Revision as of 02:34, 11 April 2010
Line 8:		Line 8:
	The photos below show replacement black stainless steel bolts from [http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/ Murphs' Kits]. Murphs' specializes in parts for the Kawasaki Concours and is a favorite of the members of the [http://www.concours.org/ Concours Owners Group]. They don't really have a kit for the Ninja 250; our owner used leftovers from his Connie and a spare parts kit from Murphs'. This article will tell you which bolt sizes you need to do the replacement. You can contact Murph from his site, and if he won't make up a kit for you, there is a list of other bolt/fastener suppliers at the bottom.		The photos below show replacement black stainless steel bolts from [http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/ Murphs' Kits]. Murphs' specializes in parts for the Kawasaki Concours and is a favorite of the members of the [http://www.concours.org/ Concours Owners Group]. They don't really have a kit for the Ninja 250; our owner used leftovers from his Connie and a spare parts kit from Murphs'. This article will tell you which bolt sizes you need to do the replacement. You can contact Murph from his site, and if he won't make up a kit for you, there is a list of other bolt/fastener suppliers at the bottom.

	'''Disclaimer first, AND PAY ATTENTION''': The bolts that go from the upper fairing into the gas tank are very size-sensitive. We recommend using only OEM Kawasaki bolts in that application. On older bikes, if you used one of the bolts from the bottom in the top fairing hole, you would puncture the tank, making it leak gas and making you replace it. [[How do I remove the fairing, fuel tank, etc?\|See here]] for more info on this. Certainly don't use anything longer than the OEM length of [~~https~~://~~www~~.~~kawasakiepc~~.com/~~SystemSearch_Frames~~.cfm~~?QuickSearch=1&SearchFor=EX250-F6&SearchBy=~~Model~~&cGroupID=&CFID=4165869&CFTOKEN=79224002~~ 6x18].		'''Disclaimer first, AND PAY ATTENTION''': The bolts that go from the upper fairing into the gas tank are very size-sensitive. We recommend using only OEM Kawasaki bolts in that application. On older bikes, if you used one of the bolts from the bottom in the top fairing hole, you would puncture the tank, making it leak gas and making you replace it. [[How do I remove the fairing, fuel tank, etc?\|See here]] for more info on this. Certainly don't use anything longer than the OEM length of [http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/Module/Main/TypeID/26/Type/Motorcycle/MakeID/3/Make/Kawasaki/YearID/47/Year/2006/ModelID/4185/Model/Ninja_250R/GroupID/132458/Group/Cowling%281/2%29 6x18]. </disclaimer>

	The stock body fasteners are not made from the highest quality metals known to man and are known to strip. These work like a charm, no matter how many times as you take the plastics off. These are stainless steel button head hex screws blackened for looks. ~~What ever~~ process is used works well and lasts a long time. Our man has had no issues in years of use on his Connie. Each screw includes a washer and has a neoprene backing. This kit replaces the usual strippable-by-looking-at-them Philips head bolts with infinitely superior hex heads.		The stock body fasteners are not made from the highest quality metals known to man and are known to strip. These work like a charm, no matter how many times you take the plastics off. These are stainless steel button-head hex screws blackened for looks. Whatever process is used works well and lasts a long time. Our man has had no issues in years of use on his Connie. Each screw includes a washer and has a neoprene backing. This kit replaces the usual strippable-by-looking-at-them Philips head bolts with infinitely superior hex heads.

	To make a bodywork fastener kit for the Ninja 250, you will need 15 each 6x20mm ~~screws~~, 1 each 5x15 ~~screw~~ and 2 each 6x25mm ~~screws~~ for the upper and lower fairings. Plus 6 each 5x15 ~~Screws~~ for the Windshield. This breaks down into:		To make a bodywork fastener kit for the Ninja 250, you will need 15 each 6x20mm bolts, 1 each 5x15 bolt and 2 each 6x25mm bolts for the upper and lower fairings. Plus 6 each 5x15 bolts for the Windshield. This breaks down into:

	* 6 - 5x15mm Windshield (5x12mm stock)		* 6 - 5x15mm Windshield (5x12mm stock)
	* 1 - 5x15mm Lower Fairing, Front Screen (~~5x18m~~ stock)		* 1 - 5x15mm Lower Fairing, Front Screen (5x18mm stock)
	* 4 - 6x20mm Upper Fairing, Inner Panel (6x18mm stock)		* 4 - 6x20mm Upper Fairing, Inner Panel (6x18mm stock)
	* 4 - 6x20mm Front Turn Signals (6x18mm stock)		* 4 - 6x20mm Front Turn Signals (6x18mm stock)

Bokonon: /* Other Concours Kits Available */

2010-04-11T06:14:01Z

Other Concours Kits Available

← Older revision		Revision as of 02:14, 11 April 2010
Line 44:		Line 44:
	*[http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1_95&products_id=126 Tank and Cylinder Kit] – Use the 1994-2006 kit. You will get the 7 screws for the tank filler and the small screws for 2 master cylinders, as the Connie has both brake and clutch master cylinders. You'll have spares.		*[http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1_95&products_id=126 Tank and Cylinder Kit] – Use the 1994-2006 kit. You will get the 7 screws for the tank filler and the small screws for 2 master cylinders, as the Connie has both brake and clutch master cylinders. You'll have spares.

	:[[image:IMGP4235.JPG\|150px]]		:[[image:IMGP4235.JPG\|150px]] [[image:IMGP4233.JPG\|150px]]
	:[[image:IMGP4233.JPG\|150px]]

	*[http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1_95&products_id=57 Fairing U-Nuts] Those little things that fit out of sight and that the bolts turn into when putting the two pieces of the fairing together. Something to have around just in case. Kawasaki part # 92015-1602		*[http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1_95&products_id=57 Fairing U-Nuts] Those little things that fit out of sight and that the bolts turn into when putting the two pieces of the fairing together. Something to have around just in case. Kawasaki part # 92015-1602