Replacing body fasteners/bolts: Difference between revisions

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So, your bike is getting on in years (and, if it's a 250F, it may have been that way when you bought it), the body panels have been off many times for various reasons, and the fasteners look like the finish on your neighbor's '74 Nova. It's pretty easy to replace them with new, stainless steel bolts that will bring back some pride of ownership and that new-bike feel.  
So, your bike is getting on in years, previous owners haven't been terribly kind to it, the body panels have been off many times for various reasons, and the fasteners look like the finish on your neighbor's '74 Nova. It's pretty easy to replace them with new, stainless steel bolts that will bring back some pride of ownership and that new-bike feel.  


====Stainless steel body bolts====
====Stainless steel body bolts====
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'''Disclaimer first, AND PAY ATTENTION''': The bolts that go from the upper fairing into the gas tank are very size-sensitive. We recommend using only OEM Kawasaki bolts in that application. On older bikes, if you used one of the bolts from the bottom in the top fairing hole, you would puncture the tank, making it leak gas and making you replace it. [[How do I remove the fairing, fuel tank, etc?|See here]] for more info on this.  Certainly don't use anything longer than the OEM length of [http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/Module/Main/TypeID/26/Type/Motorcycle/MakeID/3/Make/Kawasaki/YearID/47/Year/2006/ModelID/4185/Model/Ninja_250R/GroupID/132458/Group/Cowling%281/2%29 6x18]. </disclaimer>
'''Disclaimer first, AND PAY ATTENTION''': The bolts that go from the upper fairing into the gas tank are very size-sensitive. We recommend using only OEM Kawasaki bolts in that application. On older bikes, if you used one of the bolts from the bottom in the top fairing hole, you would puncture the tank, making it leak gas and making you replace it. [[How do I remove the fairing, fuel tank, etc?|See here]] for more info on this.  Certainly don't use anything longer than the OEM length of [http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/Module/Main/TypeID/26/Type/Motorcycle/MakeID/3/Make/Kawasaki/YearID/47/Year/2006/ModelID/4185/Model/Ninja_250R/GroupID/132458/Group/Cowling%281/2%29 6x18]. </disclaimer>


The stock body fasteners are not made from the highest quality metals known to man and are known to strip. The Murphs' ones are stainless steel button-head hex screws blackened for looks. They work like a charm, no matter how many times you take the plastics off. Each bolt includes a washer and has a neoprene backing. This kit replaces the usual strippable-by-looking-at-them Philips head bolts with infinitely superior hex (Allen) heads.  
The stock body fasteners are not made from the highest quality metals known to man and are known to strip. The Murphs' ones are stainless steel button-head hex screws blackened for looks. They work like a charm, no matter how many times you take the plastics off. Each bolt includes a metal washer and a neoprene washer. This kit replaces the usual strippable-by-looking-at-them Philips head bolts with infinitely superior hex (Allen) heads.  
   
   
To make a bodywork fastener kit for the Ninja 250, you will need 15 each 6x20mm bolts, 1 each 5x15 bolt and 2 each 6x25mm bolts for the upper and lower fairings. Plus 6 each 5x15 bolts for the Windshield. This breaks down into:  
To make a bodywork fastener kit for the Ninja 250, you will need 15 each 6x20mm bolts, 1 each 5x15 bolt and 2 each 6x25mm bolts for the upper and lower fairings. Plus 6 each 5x15 bolts for the Windshield. This breaks down into:  
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* 0 - 6x18mm Upper Fairing to Tank – These were left stock, as they were already Allen head. See warning above.  
* 0 - 6x18mm Upper Fairing to Tank – These were left stock, as they were already Allen head. See warning above.  


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The photo below shows the bolts used for this article.
 
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Installed photos
 
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