Brake caliper rebuild: Difference between revisions

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* Heavy duty large zip ties

* Copper banjo bolt washers (optional) part #43067-001 WASHER, 10.5X15X1.5 - If you decide to go the recommended route below and take the caliper off the bike, you'll need two of these for each banjo bolt you remove.

* Red (high strength) thread-locking compound

====Additional parts for a rebuild====

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Throughout this process, use copious amounts of brake cleaner on every dirty part, then wipe and dry thoroughly. Not on the pads, though. The best practice is to keep every fluid possible off the pads. Air and water are okay, but anything else can lead to pads that get slick, get hard (providing less friction) or even get crumbly and wear away in just a couple of uses. It all depends on how the glue that's binding the particles (metal or organic) together reacts to whatever chemical hits it.

Remember that DOT3 and DOT4 brake fluid will remove paint if left on painted surfaces for very long. Wipe up spills quickly. It may be worth keeping clay-based granulated kitty litter on hand to absorb spills on the ground.

====Important Safety Note====

Brakes are so integral to your safety aboard a motorcycle that they should be considered sacrosanct. If you're not confident you can perform the work described here correctly and completely, DO NOT attempt this job; take it to a professional mechanic. Performing this maintenance incorrectly can result in missing brake pads, leaking fluid, and parts going flying at high speed, any of which disable half of your braking capability. Leaking brake fluid can also remove paint and lubricate tires enough that they no longer grip the road.

This is not a difficult job, and you should not take this warning as a reason not to attempt it. Just keep in mind at all times that your brakes are your one and only line of defense against smashing head-first into anything in front of you.

If you decide to perform this maintenance, we recommend that you do it to one caliper at a time (starting with the rear caliper), and ride-test the resulting work for several hundred miles before attempting the next caliper. This will ensure that you always have one working brake.

==Procedure==

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[[image:Brake5.jpg|150px]]

Reinstall the caliper, then [[How do I bleed the brake lines?|bleed the brakes]]. Torque for the mounting bolts is 24 ft-lbs front and 18 ft-lbs rear.

Reinstall the caliper, using red thread-lock on the mounting bolts, then [[How do I bleed the brake lines?|bleed the brakes]]. Torque for the mounting bolts is 24 ft-lbs front and 18 ft-lbs rear.

Test the brakes while walking before going for a ride. It's more pleasant to realize something's not working when you're walking next to it than when you're approaching a stop at a busy intersection.

@@ Line 16: / Line 16: @@
 * Heavy duty large zip ties
 * Copper banjo bolt washers (optional) part #43067-001 WASHER, 10.5X15X1.5 - If you decide to go the recommended route below and take the caliper off the bike, you'll need two of these for each banjo bolt you remove.
+* Red (high strength) thread-locking compound
 ====Additional parts for a rebuild====
@@ Line 26: / Line 27: @@
 Throughout this process, use copious amounts of brake cleaner on every dirty part, then wipe and dry thoroughly. Not on the pads, though. The best practice is to keep every fluid possible off the pads. Air and water are okay, but anything else can lead to pads that get slick, get hard (providing less friction) or even get crumbly and wear away in just a couple of uses. It all depends on how the glue that's binding the particles (metal or organic) together reacts to whatever chemical hits it.
+Remember that DOT3 and DOT4 brake fluid will remove paint if left on painted surfaces for very long.  Wipe up spills quickly.  It may be worth keeping clay-based granulated kitty litter on hand to absorb spills on the ground.
+====Important Safety Note====
+Brakes are so integral to your safety aboard a motorcycle that they should be considered sacrosanct.  If you're not confident you can perform the work described here correctly and completely, DO NOT attempt this job; take it to a professional mechanic.  Performing this maintenance incorrectly can result in missing brake pads, leaking fluid, and parts going flying at high speed, any of which disable half of your braking capability.  Leaking brake fluid can also remove paint and lubricate tires enough that they no longer grip the road.
+This is not a difficult job, and you should not take this warning as a reason not to attempt it.  Just keep in mind at all times that your brakes are your one and only line of defense against smashing head-first into anything in front of you.
+If you decide to perform this maintenance, we recommend that you do it to one caliper at a time (starting with the rear caliper), and ride-test the resulting work for several hundred miles before attempting the next caliper.  This will ensure that you always have one working brake.
 ==Procedure==
@@ Line 112: / Line 123: @@
 [[image:Brake5.jpg|150px]]
-Reinstall the caliper, then [[How do I bleed the brake lines?|bleed the brakes]]. Torque for the mounting bolts is 24 ft-lbs front and 18 ft-lbs rear.
+Reinstall the caliper, using red thread-lock on the mounting bolts, then [[How do I bleed the brake lines?|bleed the brakes]]. Torque for the mounting bolts is 24 ft-lbs front and 18 ft-lbs rear.
 Test the brakes while walking before going for a ride. It's more pleasant to realize something's not working when you're walking next to it than when you're approaching a stop at a busy intersection.