Installing a ZX600 shock: Difference between revisions

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4. Now, remove the lower shock mounting bolt. The bolt head is 17mm, but you'll need another socket/wrench to stop the nut from spinning with the bolt (nut = 19mm). An impact wrench (if you have one) will work wonders for this step.

5. The shock will now drop out (with a little persuasion). Put the nut back on the bolt and set it aside. Now you will need to remove the bolt to the left of lower shock mount. Again, use the impact wrench, or a breaker bar, and set aside. This will aid in the positioning of the larger ZX600 shock.

5. The shock will now drop out (with a little persuasion). Put the nut back on the bolt and set it aside. Now you will need to remove the bolt to the left of the lower shock mount. Again, use the impact wrench, or a breaker bar, and set aside. This will aid in the positioning of the larger ZX600 shock.

[[Image:ZX600_shock_3.jpg|90px]]

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====Checking the pressure in the shock====

~~Don~~'t use an air compressor, and ~~don't use a gauge. Get a shock pump from a bicycle store (this one is from Performance Bike, $20~~.)

There are two ways to do this. Whatever you do, don't use an air compressor. The air reservoir can burst if you put too much pressure in it, and then you get to start all over again.

~~[[Image:ZX600_shock_pump~~.~~jpg|110px]]~~

1. Get a shock pump, or other '''low-volume''' pump, from a bicycle store. Make sure your bicycle pump is accurate at pressures as low as 5 or 10 psi. This may be difficult to find. The pump has to be low-volume; filling the reservoir slowly is important. This kind of pump may have to be combined with a pressure gauge that measures in 1 psi increments (see warning below) as most of them don't have gauges that read low enough for this application.

~~The~~ air ~~reservoir can burst if~~ you put ~~too much pressure~~ in it, ~~and~~ then you ~~get~~ to ~~start all over again~~. ~~Likewise, if you put a~~ tire gauge on the ~~air hose, some of the shock oil may leak out. It~~'s ~~better to get a good shock pump, like the one above, and use that to check and adjust your pressure~~.

2. If you have a portable air tank, set the tank to the pressure you want to put in the shock, then let them equalize. This works whether you want to raise or lower the shock pressure. Don't trust the gauge on the tank; use your precision tire gauge on the tank's Schrader fill-valve.

Max psi is 28, so be careful. It doesn't take much to get that high. ~~Make sure your bicycle shock pump is accurate at that low pressure. Several ~140-pound riders reported on their pressure~~ settings. One ~~on the~~ "A" series ('85-'87) ~~used~~ about 15-20 psi. A different member with an "A" series ~~said~~ he uses about 5 psi around town, and increases it to 20 for sporting weekend rides. ~~The member who had~~ a newer "C" series ('88-'97) shock said that he usually found the shock to be stiff enough without any air in it. You'll have to test for yourself, and see what works for you. Be careful when adding air, though.

If you put a tire gauge on the air hose, some of the shock oil may leak out. Try putting the bike on its centerstand and adding a pump of air before checking pressure, to force any potential oil back into the shock and minimize leakage. If this happens too many times, plan on either topping it off or changing the oil again.

Max psi is 28, so be careful. It doesn't take much to get that high. Pressure settings are a matter of personal preference. One rider with an "A" series ('85-'87) uses about 15-20 psi. A different member with an "A" series says he uses about 5 psi around town and increases it to 20 for sporting weekend rides. One person with a newer "C" series ('88-'97) shock said that he usually found the shock to be stiff enough without any air in it. All of these guys weigh in the 140-150 lb. range. You'll have to test for yourself and see what works for you. Be careful when adding air, though.

====Notes====

@@ Line 18: / Line 18: @@
 . Now, remove the lower shock mounting bolt. The bolt head is 17mm, but you'll need another socket/wrench to stop the nut from spinning with the bolt (nut = 19mm). An impact wrench (if you have one) will work wonders for this step.
-. The shock will now drop out (with a little persuasion). Put the nut back on the bolt and set it aside. Now you will need to remove the bolt to the left of lower shock mount. Again, use the impact wrench, or a breaker bar, and set aside. This will aid in the positioning of the larger ZX600 shock.
+. The shock will now drop out (with a little persuasion). Put the nut back on the bolt and set it aside. Now you will need to remove the bolt to the left of the lower shock mount. Again, use the impact wrench, or a breaker bar, and set aside. This will aid in the positioning of the larger ZX600 shock.
 [[Image:ZX600_shock_3.jpg|90px]]
@@ Line 52: / Line 52: @@
 ====Checking the pressure in the shock====
-Don't use an air compressor, and don't use a gauge. Get a shock pump from a bicycle store (this one is from Performance Bike, $20.)
+There are two ways to do this. Whatever you do, don't use an air compressor. The air reservoir can burst if you put too much pressure in it, and then you get to start all over again.
-[[Image:ZX600_shock_pump.jpg|110px]]
+. Get a shock pump, or other '''low-volume''' pump, from a bicycle store. Make sure your bicycle pump is accurate at pressures as low as 5 or 10 psi. This may be difficult to find. The pump has to be low-volume; filling the reservoir slowly is important. This kind of pump may have to be combined with a pressure gauge that measures in 1 psi increments (see warning below) as most of them don't have gauges that read low enough for this application.
-The air reservoir can burst if you put too much pressure in it, and then you get to start all over again. Likewise, if you put a tire gauge on the air hose, some of the shock oil may leak out. It's better to get a good shock pump, like the one above, and use that to check and adjust your pressure.
+. If you have a portable air tank, set the tank to the pressure you want to put in the shock, then let them equalize. This works whether you want to raise or lower the shock pressure. Don't trust the gauge on the tank; use your precision tire gauge on the tank's Schrader fill-valve.
-Max psi is 28, so be careful. It doesn't take much to get that high. Make sure your bicycle shock pump is accurate at that low pressure. Several ~140-pound riders reported on their pressure settings. One on the "A" series ('85-'87) used about 15-20 psi. A different member with an "A" series said he uses about 5 psi around town, and increases it to 20 for sporting weekend rides. The member who had a newer "C" series ('88-'97) shock said that he usually found the shock to be stiff enough without any air in it. You'll have to test for yourself, and see what works for you. Be careful when adding air, though.
+If you put a tire gauge on the air hose, some of the shock oil may leak out. Try putting the bike on its centerstand and adding a pump of air before checking pressure, to force any potential oil back into the shock and minimize leakage.  If this happens too many times, plan on either topping it off or changing the oil again.
+Max psi is 28, so be careful. It doesn't take much to get that high.  Pressure settings are a matter of personal preference. One rider with an "A" series ('85-'87) uses about 15-20 psi. A different member with an "A" series says he uses about 5 psi around town and increases it to 20 for sporting weekend rides. One person with a newer "C" series ('88-'97) shock said that he usually found the shock to be stiff enough without any air in it. All of these guys weigh in the 140-150 lb. range. You'll have to test for yourself and see what works for you. Be careful when adding air, though.
 ====Notes====