My upper fairing stay is broken: Difference between revisions

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[[Image:fairing stay2.jpg|150px]]

It can also ~~be done~~ without a welder -- use a long bolt through the strut to hold the new bracket into place. You may need to trim the bottom of the strut if you use the bolt; there isn't a lot of clearance where the bolt head goes.

Here are the measurements that one of our guys came up with. YMMV. He used 3/4" wide x 1/8" thick flat steel, with these ''approximate'' dimensions:

*A: ~70mm

*B: ~30mm (lower corner needs to be rounded as described below)

*C: ~20mm (bolt hole diameter: 6.4mm)

*The hole in the center where post would go through is ~16mm

:[[image:813132.png|150px]]

You can also mount the new part without a welder -- use a long bolt through the strut to hold the new bracket into place. You may need to trim the bottom of the strut if you use the bolt; there isn't a lot of clearance where the bolt head goes.

To remove the broken bracket pieces, grind down the weld on the end of the fairing stay, then beat the bracket ring (all that should remain after the angles snap off) right off the end of the fairing stay post. Here's a couple shots of the fairing stay with the old bracket remains removed:

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Line 44:

With the upper fairing stay bracket removed and the tube cleaned up, position the new bracket on the tube. Weld it on. The end of the tube should not protrude through the hole in the bracket, since there is minimal clearance to the frame in that area.

~~It is important to note that the~~ thicker bracket material will require new hardware to mount the stay to the frame. Something in the neighborhood of M6x14mm bolts is what you~~'ll probably~~ need.

The thicker bracket material will require new hardware to mount the stay to the frame. Something in the neighborhood of M6x14mm bolts is what you should need.

~~Also very~~ important to note is that the lower corners of the bracket need to be removed to clear the lower triple tree as the handlebars are turned. Use a Dremel tool cutoff wheel and clean up the edges with a grinding stone bit.

It's important to note that the lower corners of the bracket need to be removed to clear the steering stop on the lower triple tree as the handlebars are turned. Use a Dremel tool cutoff wheel and clean up the edges with a grinding stone bit.

[[image:IMG_9420.jpg|100px]]

@@ Line 22: / Line 22: @@
 [[Image:fairing stay2.jpg|150px]]
-It can also be done without a welder -- use a long bolt through the strut to hold the new bracket into place. You may need to trim the bottom of the strut if you use the bolt; there isn't a lot of clearance where the bolt head goes.
+Here are the measurements that one of our guys came up with. YMMV. He used 3/4" wide x 1/8" thick flat steel, with these ''approximate'' dimensions:
+*A: ~70mm
+*B: ~30mm (lower corner needs to be rounded as described below)
+*C: ~20mm (bolt hole diameter: 6.4mm)
+*The hole in the center where post would go through is ~16mm
+:[[image:813132.png|150px]]
+You can also mount the new part without a welder -- use a long bolt through the strut to hold the new bracket into place. You may need to trim the bottom of the strut if you use the bolt; there isn't a lot of clearance where the bolt head goes.
 To remove the broken bracket pieces, grind down the weld on the end of the fairing stay, then beat the bracket ring (all that should remain after the angles snap off) right off the end of the fairing stay post. Here's a couple shots of the fairing stay with the old bracket remains removed:
@@ Line 35: / Line 44: @@
 With the upper fairing stay bracket removed and the tube cleaned up, position the new bracket on the tube. Weld it on. The end of the tube should not protrude through the hole in the bracket, since there is minimal clearance to the frame in that area.
-It is important to note that the thicker bracket material will require new hardware to mount the stay to the frame. Something in the neighborhood of M6x14mm bolts is what you'll probably need.
+The thicker bracket material will require new hardware to mount the stay to the frame. Something in the neighborhood of M6x14mm bolts is what you should need.
-Also very important to note is that the lower corners of the bracket need to be removed to clear the lower triple tree as the handlebars are turned. Use a Dremel tool cutoff wheel and clean up the edges with a grinding stone bit.
+It's important to note that the lower corners of the bracket need to be removed to clear the steering stop on the lower triple tree as the handlebars are turned. Use a Dremel tool cutoff wheel and clean up the edges with a grinding stone bit.
 [[image:IMG_9420.jpg|100px]]