Removing J bike carbs: Difference between revisions

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[[Category:EX250J Info]]

Motorcycles, and Kawasakis in general, and EX250s specifically, are known for not always having all their carb settings in perfect order right out of the box. Here's how to take care of [[My ~~'08~~ is a cold-blooded ogre|that problem]].

Motorcycles, and Kawasakis in general, and EX250s specifically, are known for not always having all their carb settings in perfect order right out of the box. Here's how to take care of [[My 2008 is a cold-blooded ogre|that problem]].

Start by [[Removing 250J tank & bodywork|removing the fairings]]. Then, once the fairings are out of the way, you get to see all the different things that are still in your way to get at the carbs. There's a lot. Expect ''at least'' an hour and a half to get them out.

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Down on the left side of the airbox behind the S tube is the other 5mm bolt that holds the airbox to the frame. Remove it. It's right above the front sprocket but buried in there. It holds a thin piece of metal that guides a tube, which only helps the camouflage. You might want to put a pick-up magnet on it when removing, so you don't drop it into the sprocket cover.

~~Now, loosen~~ the 3mm allen bolts that hold the airbox to the inlet side of the carbs and push it as far back as you can. ~~Just like the old airbox, it~~ won't go far. You can remove the air injection tube on the top of the airbox for a couple more mm.

Loosen the 3mm allen bolts that hold the airbox to the inlet side of the carbs and push it as far back as you can. It won't go far. You can remove the air injection tube on the top of the airbox for a couple more mm.

~~Now, just like the old bike, loosen~~ the two clamps holding the intake boots to the carbs/head and pop the carbs back. Use a screwdriver and remove the left intake boot from the engine. This takes finesse. If you've done it on the [[How do I remove the carbs to work on them?|old bike]], you will notice that it's a bit harder to do it on the new bike. Why? Because you can't remove the carb to airbox boots for extra room.

Loosen the two clamps holding the intake boots to the carbs/head and pop the carbs back. Use a screwdriver and remove the left intake boot from the engine. This takes finesse. If you've done it on the [[How do I remove the carbs to work on them?|old bike]], you will notice that it's a bit harder to do it on the new bike. Why? Because you can't remove the carb to airbox boots for extra room.

~~Now, remove~~ the choke cable from the carbs. You can do this earlier if you like. Take the slack out of it by manually sliding the mechanism on the carbs.

Remove the choke cable from the carbs. You can do this earlier if you like. Take the slack out of it by manually sliding the mechanism on the carbs.

Remove the vacuum hose from the left carb. Use some more finesse and pull the carbs out of the left side of the bike.

~~So, now~~ you have the carbs in your hands. If you think the gas is new and good, you can just drain the carbs into the tank. Otherwise, use a correct container. You need that 3mm allen key again.

Now you have the carbs in your hands. If you think the gas is new and good, you can just drain the carbs into the tank. Otherwise, use a correct container. You need that 3mm allen key again.

Now you just need to remove the phillips screws holding the float bowls to the carb bodies and drill out the [[Removing idle mixture screw plugs|mixture screw protective caps]]. Then you can ~~then~~ make all the [[How do I work on the carbs?|adjustments]] you need to the carbs.

Now you just need to remove the phillips screws holding the float bowls to the carb bodies and drill out the [[Removing idle mixture screw plugs|mixture screw protective caps]]. Then you can make all the [[How do I work on the carbs?|adjustments]] you need to the carbs.

Make sure both [[How do I adjust the floats?|float heights]] are set to 17mm. Mixture screws on this bike were set to 1.5 to 2 turns out for the left cylinder and 2.5 to 3 turns out for the right from the factory. [[How do I adjust the idle mixture?|Set them both]] to 2.5 turns.

Put everything back together (much faster than taking it off) and ~~set~~ the petcock to prime. Don't forget to switch back to the on position; you don't need a flooded engine in the near future.

Put everything back together (much faster than taking it off). When re-assembling, do the airbox side first, and have the battery tray out and the airbox unbolted from the frame. Two bolts, one lower left front, one upper right rear, 4mm hex heads. The airbox can move about 3/4".

Set the petcock to prime for the first start. Don't forget to switch back to the on position; you don't need a flooded engine in the near future.

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 [[Category:EX250J Info]]
-Motorcycles, and Kawasakis in general, and EX250s specifically, are known for not always having all their carb settings in perfect order right out of the box. Here's how to take care of [[My '08 is a cold-blooded ogre|that problem]].
+Motorcycles, and Kawasakis in general, and EX250s specifically, are known for not always having all their carb settings in perfect order right out of the box. Here's how to take care of [[My 2008 is a cold-blooded ogre|that problem]].
 Start by [[Removing 250J tank & bodywork|removing the fairings]]. Then, once the fairings are out of the way, you get to see all the different things that are still in your way to get at the carbs. There's a lot. Expect ''at least'' an hour and a half to get them out.
@@ Line 20: / Line 20: @@
 Down on the left side of the airbox behind the S tube is the other 5mm bolt that holds the airbox to the frame. Remove it. It's right above the front sprocket but buried in there. It holds a thin piece of metal that guides a tube, which only helps the camouflage. You might want to put a pick-up magnet on it when removing, so you don't drop it into the sprocket cover.
-Now, loosen the 3mm allen bolts that hold the airbox to the inlet side of the carbs and push it as far back as you can. Just like the old airbox, it won't go far. You can remove the air injection tube on the top of the airbox for a couple more mm.
+Loosen the 3mm allen bolts that hold the airbox to the inlet side of the carbs and push it as far back as you can. It won't go far. You can remove the air injection tube on the top of the airbox for a couple more mm.
-Now, just like the old bike, loosen the two clamps holding the intake boots to the carbs/head and pop the carbs back. Use a screwdriver and remove the left intake boot from the engine. This takes finesse. If you've done it on the [[How do I remove the carbs to work on them?|old bike]], you will notice that it's a bit harder to do it on the new bike. Why? Because you can't remove the carb to airbox boots for extra room.
+Loosen the two clamps holding the intake boots to the carbs/head and pop the carbs back. Use a screwdriver and remove the left intake boot from the engine. This takes finesse. If you've done it on the [[How do I remove the carbs to work on them?|old bike]], you will notice that it's a bit harder to do it on the new bike. Why? Because you can't remove the carb to airbox boots for extra room.
-Now, remove the choke cable from the carbs. You can do this earlier if you like. Take the slack out of it by manually sliding the mechanism on the carbs.
+Remove the choke cable from the carbs. You can do this earlier if you like. Take the slack out of it by manually sliding the mechanism on the carbs.
 Remove the vacuum hose from the left carb. Use some more finesse and pull the carbs out of the left side of the bike.
-So, now you have the carbs in your hands. If you think the gas is new and good, you can just drain the carbs into the tank. Otherwise, use a correct container. You need that 3mm allen key again.
+Now you have the carbs in your hands. If you think the gas is new and good, you can just drain the carbs into the tank. Otherwise, use a correct container. You need that 3mm allen key again.
-Now you just need to remove the phillips screws holding the float bowls to the carb bodies and drill out the [[Removing idle mixture screw plugs|mixture screw protective caps]]. Then you can then make all the [[How do I work on the carbs?|adjustments]] you need to the carbs.
+Now you just need to remove the phillips screws holding the float bowls to the carb bodies and drill out the [[Removing idle mixture screw plugs|mixture screw protective caps]]. Then you can make all the [[How do I work on the carbs?|adjustments]] you need to the carbs.
 Make sure both [[How do I adjust the floats?|float heights]] are set to 17mm. Mixture screws on this bike were set to 1.5 to 2 turns out for the left cylinder and 2.5 to 3 turns out for the right from the factory. [[How do I adjust the idle mixture?|Set them both]] to 2.5 turns.
-Put everything back together (much faster than taking it off) and set the petcock to prime. Don't forget to switch back to the on position; you don't need a flooded engine in the near future.
+Put everything back together (much faster than taking it off). When re-assembling, do the airbox side first, and have the battery tray out and the airbox unbolted from the frame. Two bolts, one lower left front, one upper right rear, 4mm hex heads. The airbox can move about 3/4".
+Set the petcock to prime for the first start. Don't forget to switch back to the on position; you don't need a flooded engine in the near future.