Installing a voltmeter: Difference between revisions

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==Show Chrome 5-function meter==

The five-function meter from [http://www.casporttouring.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=14124&Category_Code=Electronics CA Sport Touring] (and many other places - search) is larger than the Datel one. It mounts with Velcro. It not only ~~gives you~~ the voltage, but also the time and temperature. It has ~~a pickup~~ in ~~the case and another on~~ a ~~wire suitable for taping to the windscreen~~ with a ~~couple of strips of electrical tape or a bit of RTV under the suction cup~~. The ~~temp gauge~~ is ~~nice to have~~. ~~If you run heated accessories you~~ can ~~readily tell by the voltage whether the battery is charging (13v~~ or ~~so) or discharging (11~~.~~4v) or everything is happy, happy, happy (14.7v)~~.

The five-function meter from [http://www.casporttouring.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=14124&Category_Code=Electronics CA Sport Touring] (and many other places - search) is larger than the Datel one. This unit mounts with Velcro. It gives you not only the voltage, but also the time and temperature. It has settings for temp readings in F or C. It also has a max temperature hold feature with a reset button. The voltmeter display is pretty straightforward and has a 3-color LED low battery alarm. The clock can be set to 12 or 24-hour format. You can also switch to a stopwatch/lap timer.

~~You can mount it between the gauge cluster and the windscreen using a couple of small L-brackets and double-stick tape - - no drilling or anything permanent~~. ~~Put tape around the corners so it won't scratch the inside~~ of the ~~windscreen. This offers some rain protection in case the bike gets left out in the rain. This~~ unit ~~'''is not''' waterproof. It hooks up three places: ground & battery~~ (~~front accessory leads for these two~~) ~~and a switched power lead, such as a tap into the horn or instrument lighting wiring~~. The ~~switched lead mainly only activates~~ the ~~LEDs~~ and ~~back lighting. The display is on constantly, as is usual for LCDs~~.

There are two temperature sensors. One of them is internal to the unit and (think car/truck) is expected to be your inside vehicle temperature reading. The other sensor is on the end of a long wire and intended to be your outside vehicle temperature reading.

~~The nighttime illumination is not that good, but it gives you three LEDs~~: red, amber, and green, to indicate less than 12.3v, between 12.3 and 12.7v, and over 12.7. You typically get all three when moving, two when stopped without the heaters or brake on, and only the red with either load added. You can't read the display well at night, and the LEDs are invisible in the daylight, so both display methods have merit.

[[image: IMGP6122.JPG|150px]]

[[image:IMG_7082.jpg|~~250px~~]]

====Mounting bracket====

You can mount this between the gauge cluster and the windscreen using a couple of small L-brackets and double-stick tape, although you might want to use [http://www.3m.com/product/information/Dual-Lock-Reclosable-Fastener.html 3M Dual Lock] instead. You don't need to drill anything. If you like, put tape around the corners so it won't scratch the inside of the windscreen.

The example below uses one piece to hold the unit. Cut out a spot for reaching the buttons on the back. Then, take a second piece of metal, bend it to the shape of the dash, and JB Weld the two pieces together. File off the rough edges and paint.

Cover the bracket's mounting face in 3M Dual Lock material. You should only need two small pads of it on the meter itself. Dual Lock is strong enough that you only need small mounting points. Too large and you can't remove it easily. The small pads on the meter with the large pads on the bracket leave lots of movement for fine tuning the position.

[[image: IMGP6181.JPG|150px]]

[[image: IMGP6182.JPG|150px]]

[[image: IMGP6199.JPG|150px]]

====Wiring====

The meter has 3 wires. Two are for a connection to constant 12V, which maintains the clock and runs the display with no backlighting. This is on all the time. The 3rd wire is tied to the ignition for the LCD backlighting. It’s wired this way so the unit does not draw much power while the ignition is off. Route the wires under the dash and back to the battery. Connection directly to the battery gives the most accuracy. The wires are plenty long enough.

For the third connection (comes on with the ignition switch), tap into the battery side of the horn or the instrument lighting wiring.

You can zip tie the temperature probe to the cross bar, or anywhere else that keeps it out of direct sunlight.

[[image:IMGP6201-2.jpg|110px]]

====Reading the gauges====

One reviewer said that the lighting was hard to read at night, but most have found that it works 'well enough'. It’s not super bright; you shouldn't have to stare at it to read it, but it takes slightly more than a glance when it's dark. Not enough to make for dangerous riding, but the readout is slightly dimmer than the dash.

The three LEDs are red, amber, and green, to indicate less than 12.3v, between 12.3 and 12.7v, and over 12.7. You typically get all three when moving, two when stopped without the heaters or brake on, and only the red with either load added. If you're running down the road and get anything other than green, it's time to start shutting electrical stuff off or finding out what your problem is. The voltmeter readout is more important than the LEDs.

This meter is not waterproof, but one of our members from the Pacific Northwest has had one on his Concours for years, riding year-round, rain and all. You just need to mount it somewhat out of the way and under cover, not out in the direct rain. You’ll probably want to cover it if you wash your bike.

[[image: IMGP6180.JPG|150px]]

[[image:IMG_7082.jpg|150px]]

@@ Line 51: / Line 51: @@
 ==Show Chrome 5-function meter==
-The five-function meter from [http://www.casporttouring.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=14124&Category_Code=Electronics CA Sport Touring] (and many other places - search) is larger than the Datel one. It mounts with Velcro. It not only gives you the voltage, but also the time and temperature. It has a pickup in the case and another on a wire suitable for taping to the windscreen with a couple of strips of electrical tape or a bit of RTV under the suction cup. The temp gauge is nice to have. If you run heated accessories you can readily tell by the voltage whether the battery is charging (13v or so) or discharging (11.4v) or everything is happy, happy, happy (14.7v).
+The five-function meter from [http://www.casporttouring.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=14124&Category_Code=Electronics CA Sport Touring] (and many other places - search) is larger than the Datel one. This unit mounts with Velcro. It gives you not only the voltage, but also the time and temperature. It has settings for temp readings in F or C. It also has a max temperature hold feature with a reset button. The voltmeter display is pretty straightforward and has a 3-color LED low battery alarm. The clock can be set to 12 or 24-hour format. You can also switch to a stopwatch/lap timer.
-You can mount it between the gauge cluster and the windscreen using a couple of small L-brackets and double-stick tape - - no drilling or anything permanent. Put tape around the corners so it won't scratch the inside of the windscreen. This offers some rain protection in case the bike gets left out in the rain. This unit '''is not''' waterproof. It hooks up three places: ground & battery (front accessory leads for these two) and a switched power lead, such as a tap into the horn or instrument lighting wiring. The switched lead mainly only activates the LEDs and back lighting. The display is on constantly, as is usual for LCDs.
+There are two temperature sensors. One of them is internal to the unit and (think car/truck) is expected to be your inside vehicle temperature reading. The other sensor is on the end of a long wire and intended to be your outside vehicle temperature reading.
-The nighttime illumination is not that good, but it gives you three LEDs: red, amber, and green, to indicate less than 12.3v, between 12.3 and 12.7v, and over 12.7. You typically get all three when moving, two when stopped without the heaters or brake on, and only the red with either load added. You can't read the display well at night, and the LEDs are invisible in the daylight, so both display methods have merit.
+[[image: IMGP6122.JPG|150px]]
-[[image:IMG_7082.jpg|250px]]
+====Mounting bracket====
+You can mount this between the gauge cluster and the windscreen using a couple of small L-brackets and double-stick tape, although you might want to use [http://www.3m.com/product/information/Dual-Lock-Reclosable-Fastener.html 3M Dual Lock] instead. You don't need to drill anything. If you like, put tape around the corners so it won't scratch the inside of the windscreen.
+The example below uses one piece to hold the unit. Cut out a spot for reaching the buttons on the back. Then, take a second piece of metal, bend it to the shape of the dash, and JB Weld the two pieces together. File off the rough edges and paint.
+Cover the bracket's mounting face in 3M Dual Lock material. You should only need two small pads of it on the meter itself. Dual Lock is strong enough that you only need small mounting points. Too large and you can't remove it easily. The small pads on the meter with the large pads on the bracket leave lots of movement for fine tuning the position.
+[[image: IMGP6181.JPG|150px]]
+[[image: IMGP6182.JPG|150px]]
+[[image: IMGP6199.JPG|150px]]
+====Wiring====
+The meter has 3 wires. Two are for a connection to constant 12V, which maintains the clock and runs the display with no backlighting. This is on all the time. The 3rd wire is tied to the ignition for the LCD backlighting. It’s wired this way so the unit does not draw much power while the ignition is off. Route the wires under the dash and back to the battery. Connection directly to the battery gives the most accuracy. The wires are plenty long enough.
+For the third connection (comes on with the ignition switch), tap into the battery side of the horn or the instrument lighting wiring.
+You can zip tie the temperature probe to the cross bar, or anywhere else that keeps it out of direct sunlight.
+[[image:IMGP6201-2.jpg|110px]]
+====Reading the gauges====
+One reviewer said that the lighting was hard to read at night, but most have found that it works 'well enough'. It’s not super bright; you shouldn't have to stare at it to read it, but it takes slightly more than a glance when it's dark. Not enough to make for dangerous riding, but the readout is slightly dimmer than the dash.
+The three LEDs are red, amber, and green, to indicate less than 12.3v, between 12.3 and 12.7v, and over 12.7. You typically get all three when moving, two when stopped without the heaters or brake on, and only the red with either load added. If you're running down the road and get anything other than green, it's time to start shutting electrical stuff off or finding out what your problem is. The voltmeter readout is more important than the LEDs.
+This meter is not waterproof, but one of our members from the Pacific Northwest has had one on his Concours for years, riding year-round, rain and all. You just need to mount it somewhat out of the way and under cover, not out in the direct rain. You’ll probably want to cover it if you wash your bike.
+[[image: IMGP6180.JPG|150px]]
+[[image:IMG_7082.jpg|150px]]