Brake caliper rebuild: Difference between revisions
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[[Category: Brakes]] | [[Category: Brakes]] | ||
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Supplies | For more information and pictures, see [[How do I replace the brake pads?]]. | ||
==Supplies== | |||
====For a deep cleaning==== | |||
* DOT3 or DOT4 brake fluid [http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_I_change_the_brake_fluid%3F#What_kind_of_brake_fluid.3F DOT4 preferred] | * DOT3 or DOT4 brake fluid [http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_I_change_the_brake_fluid%3F#What_kind_of_brake_fluid.3F DOT4 preferred] | ||
* Permatex | * Permatex [http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/lubricants/specialty_lubricants/auto_Permatex_Ultra_Disc_Brake_Caliper_Lube_Hi-Temp_Silicone_Formula.htm ultra disc brake caliper lube] or similar brake lubricant - Comes in brush-top cans, tubes, or small packets | ||
* Disposable nitrile gloves (don't skimp on this one) | * Disposable nitrile gloves (don't skimp on this one) | ||
* Brake cleaner | * Brake cleaner | ||
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* Dentist's-type pick or tiny flat head screwdriver | * Dentist's-type pick or tiny flat head screwdriver | ||
* Heavy duty large zip ties | * Heavy duty large zip ties | ||
* Copper banjo bolt washers (optional) part #43067-001 WASHER, 10.5X15X1.5 - If you decide to go the recommended route below and take the caliper off the bike, you'll need two of these for each banjo bolt you remove. | |||
* Red (high strength) thread-locking compound | |||
====Additional parts for a rebuild==== | |||
If you're going to go to the trouble of taking your caliper all apart, you might as well replace the rubber seals. They're wear parts and are designed to be replaced every 20,000 miles or so, depending. It's $20-30 per caliper for the seals, but that's a worthwhile expense vs. having the brake fail at some inopportune point in the future. | |||
Keep in mind that there are four seals per caliper and each has a different part number. Also note that the front and rear calipers are not the same and use different seals as well. | |||
==Notes== | |||
Throughout this process, use copious amounts of brake cleaner on every dirty part, then wipe and dry thoroughly. Not on the pads, though. The best practice is to keep every fluid possible off the pads. Air and water are okay, but anything else can lead to pads that get slick, get hard (providing less friction) or even get crumbly and wear away in just a couple of uses. It all depends on how the glue that's binding the particles (metal or organic) together reacts to whatever chemical hits it. | Throughout this process, use copious amounts of brake cleaner on every dirty part, then wipe and dry thoroughly. Not on the pads, though. The best practice is to keep every fluid possible off the pads. Air and water are okay, but anything else can lead to pads that get slick, get hard (providing less friction) or even get crumbly and wear away in just a couple of uses. It all depends on how the glue that's binding the particles (metal or organic) together reacts to whatever chemical hits it. | ||
Remember that DOT3 and DOT4 brake fluid will remove paint if left on painted surfaces for very long. Wipe up spills quickly. It may be worth keeping clay-based granulated kitty litter on hand to absorb spills on the ground. | |||
====Important Safety Note==== | |||
Brakes are so integral to your safety aboard a motorcycle that they should be considered sacrosanct. If you're not confident you can perform the work described here correctly and completely, DO NOT attempt this job; take it to a professional mechanic. Performing this maintenance incorrectly can result in missing brake pads, leaking fluid, and parts going flying at high speed, any of which disable half of your braking capability. Leaking brake fluid can also remove paint and lubricate tires enough that they no longer grip the road. | |||
This is not a difficult job, and you should not take this warning as a reason not to attempt it. Just keep in mind at all times that your brakes are your one and only line of defense against smashing head-first into anything in front of you. | |||
If you decide to perform this maintenance, we recommend that you do it to one caliper at a time (starting with the rear caliper), and ride-test the resulting work for several hundred miles before attempting the next caliper. This will ensure that you always have one working brake. | |||
==Procedure== | |||
Remove the two 12mm bolts attaching the caliper to the fork. | Remove the two 12mm bolts attaching the caliper to the fork. | ||
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[[image:123-1.jpg|150px]] | [[image:123-1.jpg|150px]] | ||
Gently remove the little brake pad and set it aside. | Gently remove the little brake pad and set it aside. (Note that in this picture, the little brake pad is incorrectly shown upside-down.) | ||
[[image:123-2.jpg|150px]] | [[image:123-2.jpg|150px]] | ||
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[[image:123-6.jpg|150px]] | [[image:123-6.jpg|150px]] | ||
Remove the anti-vibration | Remove the anti-vibration spring (take note of its orientation). | ||
[[image:123-7.jpg|150px]] | [[image:123-7.jpg|150px]] | ||
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[[image:123-8.jpg|150px]] | [[image:123-8.jpg|150px]] | ||
Remove all four (4) seals inside the caliper. | At this point you should consider disconnecting the brake line so you can relocate the caliper to a convenient flat surface, such as a workbench. This will necessitate replacing the copper banjo bolt washers, but it makes the cleaning and rebuilding process much easier. Do not be tempted to reuse the copper washers. | ||
Remove all four (4) seals inside the caliper, using the pick or small screwdriver. Inspect them carefully; if they don't look perfect, replace them. Remember that all 4 are different and the front and rear calipers are also different from each other. | |||
If you are reusing the old seals, clean them carefully and very thoroughly, using brake fluid. There was a lot of dirt and unknown yucky stuff inside and behind these seals. This is why you should rebuild your caliper from time to time. If the cleaning process damages the seals at all, replace them. | |||
[[image:123-9.jpg|150px]] | [[image:123-9.jpg|150px]] | ||
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[[image:123-13.jpg|150px]] | [[image:123-13.jpg|150px]] | ||
Spray tons of brake cleaner into the two caliper pin guide holes and make sure you get all of the old crud out. Then, insert a bunch of grease with your finger. The aftermath should look like so. | Spray tons of brake cleaner into the two caliper pin guide holes and make sure you get all of the old crud out. It may be worth wrapping a few layers of paper towel around the shaft of the small screwdriver and using that as a kind of brush to remove crud from inside the holes. Then, insert a bunch of grease with your finger. The aftermath should look like so. | ||
[[image:123-14.jpg|150px]] | [[image:123-14.jpg|150px]] | ||
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[[image:123-17.jpg|150px]] | [[image:123-17.jpg|150px]] | ||
Install the anti-vibration | Install the anti-vibration spring. | ||
[[image:123-18.jpg|150px]] | [[image:123-18.jpg|150px]] | ||
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[[image:Brake5.jpg|150px]] | [[image:Brake5.jpg|150px]] | ||
Reinstall the caliper, then [[How do I bleed the brake lines?|bleed the brakes]]. Torque for the mounting bolts is 24 ft-lbs front and 18 ft-lbs rear. | Reinstall the caliper, using red thread-lock on the mounting bolts, then [[How do I bleed the brake lines?|bleed the brakes]]. Torque for the mounting bolts is 24 ft-lbs front and 18 ft-lbs rear. | ||
Test the brakes while walking before going for a ride. It's more pleasant to realize something's not working when you're walking next to it than when you're approaching a stop at a busy intersection. | Test the brakes while walking before going for a ride. It's more pleasant to realize something's not working when you're walking next to it than when you're approaching a stop at a busy intersection. | ||