Servicing the swingarm: Difference between revisions

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==Tools and supplies==

*~~22mm~~, ~~19mm~~, ~~17mm~~, ~~14mm~~, 12mm sockets and appropriate ratchet handle and/or wrenches. In particular, a 19mm open-~~ended~~ wrench (suspension linkage 'holder wrench') and a 17mm open-~~ended wrench~~ (brake torque link arm). A 12" extension and a 30" breaker bar or piece of iron pipe will make this job a lot easier.

*22, 19, 17, 14, and 12mm sockets and appropriate ratchet handle, and/or wrenches. In particular, a 19mm open-end wrench (suspension linkage 'holder wrench') and a 17mm open-end (brake torque link arm). A 12" extension and a 30" breaker bar or piece of iron pipe will make this job a lot easier.

*Kerosene (or low flash point solvent) and a kerosene-safe container

*Plenty of clean, lint-free rags

*[[Torque Values|Torque Values list]]

*Molybdenum disulfide ("Moly") grease - any high-pressure bearing grease will do. However, a waterproof [http://searchwarp.com/swa3953.htm lithium grease] containing [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molybdenum_disulfide molybdenum disulphide] is the best choice). The factory explicitly calls for molybdenum disulphide, as it is an extremely effective additive for needle bearings in oscillating applications. It reduces wear by plating the bearing needles.

:This grease ~~should be~~ an excellent choice; it is a lithium soap and it contains molybdenum disulphide:

*Kerosene (or low flash point solvent) and a kerosene-safe container

:Kerosene is findable more easily in some places than others. Try a mom & pop hardware store or the camping section at Big Box, Inc. Or you can use one of the many alternatives: automotive parts cleaner, carb cleaner, mineral spirits, lacquer thinner, WD-40, electrical contact cleaner, diesel (stinky) or Simple Green.

*Molybdenum disulphide ("moly") grease - Any high-pressure bearing grease will do. However, a waterproof [http://searchwarp.com/swa3953.htm lithium grease] containing [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molybdenum_disulfide molybdenum disulphide] is the best choice. The factory explicitly calls for molybdenum disulphide, as it is an extremely effective additive for needle bearings in oscillating applications. It reduces wear by plating the bearing needles.

:This grease is an excellent choice; it is a lithium soap and contains molybdenum disulphide:

:[[Image:grease2.jpg|120px]][[Image:grease.jpg|120px]]

:[[Image:grease2.jpg|120px]] [[Image:grease.jpg|120px]]

*O-rings. Kawasaki part #92055-1215 (size 19.8 X 2.2) The Unitrak linkage uses a LOT of O-rings around the bushings, and it isn't that unusual to find some damaged ones on a high-miles bike. It is imperative these O-rings are in good shape. You normally don't need any, but ~~there's a bunch, and~~ stalling the job for 3-4 days because you're missing a $2 part would be bad.

*O-rings. Kawasaki part #92055-1215 (size 19.8 X 2.2) The Unitrak linkage uses a LOT of O-rings around the bushings, and it isn't that unusual to find some damaged ones on a high-miles bike. It is imperative that these O-rings are in good shape. You normally don't need any, but stalling the job for 3-4 days because you're missing a $2 part would be bad.

==Procedure==

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[[Image:wheelremoved.jpg|150px]]

3) Remove the nuts from the swingarm pivot (22mm), lower shock mount (19mm) and upper tie rod arms (19mm), but do not remove the bolts or pivot shaft. The easiest way to remove the 19mm nuts is to "lock" them in place with a 19mm open-~~ended~~ wrench, then spin their corresponding bolt heads with a 17mm socket, extension, and breaker bar (or ratchet + piece of pipe).

3) Remove the nuts from the swingarm pivot (22mm), lower shock mount (19mm) and upper tie rod arms (19mm), but do not remove the bolts or pivot shaft. The easiest way to remove the 19mm nuts is to "lock" them in place with a 19mm open-end wrench, then spin their corresponding bolt heads with a 17mm socket, extension, and breaker bar (or ratchet + piece of pipe).

[[Image:swingarmclose.jpg|150px]] [[Image:pivotnutremoved.jpg|150px]]

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Remove the rubber chain guard from the swingarm. Wipe off any crud from it and the swingarm. If you are planning to re-paint the swingarm when you see how horrible it looks, Duplicolor [http://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-HWP101-Silver-Performance-Wheel/dp/B000B6DFZ0 silver wheel paint], available at fine Wal-Mart stores everywhere, is a perfect match.

7) Remove the plastic rings from either end of the pivot shaft and clean them. They pop out easily with your fingernails.

7) Remove the plastic rings from either end of the pivot shaft sleeve and clean them. They pop out easily with your fingernails.

8) Remove the pivot shaft from the front of the swingarm by sliding it out one end.

8) Remove the pivot shaft sleeve from the front of the swingarm by sliding it out one end.

9) Wash the pivot shaft, pivot shaft sleeve, and needle bearings with kerosene and dry thoroughly.

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 ==Tools and supplies==
-*22mm, 19mm, 17mm, 14mm, 12mm sockets and appropriate ratchet handle and/or wrenches. In particular, a 19mm open-ended wrench (suspension linkage 'holder wrench') and a 17mm open-ended wrench (brake torque link arm). A 12" extension and a 30" breaker bar or piece of iron pipe will make this job a lot easier.
+*22, 19, 17, 14, and 12mm sockets and appropriate ratchet handle, and/or wrenches. In particular, a 19mm open-end wrench (suspension linkage 'holder wrench') and a 17mm open-end (brake torque link arm). A 12" extension and a 30" breaker bar or piece of iron pipe will make this job a lot easier.
-*Kerosene (or low flash point solvent) and a kerosene-safe container
 *Plenty of clean, lint-free rags
 *[[Torque Values|Torque Values list]]
-*Molybdenum disulfide ("Moly") grease - any high-pressure bearing grease will do. However, a waterproof [http://searchwarp.com/swa3953.htm lithium grease] containing [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molybdenum_disulfide molybdenum disulphide] is the best choice). The factory explicitly calls for molybdenum disulphide, as it is an extremely effective additive for needle bearings in oscillating applications. It reduces wear by plating the bearing needles.
-:This grease should be an excellent choice; it is a lithium soap and it contains molybdenum disulphide:
+*Kerosene (or low flash point solvent) and a kerosene-safe container
+:Kerosene is findable more easily in some places than others. Try a mom & pop hardware store or the camping section at Big Box, Inc. Or you can use one of the many alternatives: automotive parts cleaner, carb cleaner, mineral spirits, lacquer thinner, WD-40, electrical contact cleaner, diesel (stinky) or Simple Green.
+*Molybdenum disulphide ("moly") grease - Any high-pressure bearing grease will do. However, a waterproof [http://searchwarp.com/swa3953.htm lithium grease] containing [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molybdenum_disulfide molybdenum disulphide] is the best choice. The factory explicitly calls for molybdenum disulphide, as it is an extremely effective additive for needle bearings in oscillating applications. It reduces wear by plating the bearing needles.
+:This grease is an excellent choice; it is a lithium soap and contains molybdenum disulphide:
-:[[Image:grease2.jpg|120px]][[Image:grease.jpg|120px]]
+:[[Image:grease2.jpg|120px]] [[Image:grease.jpg|120px]]
-*O-rings. Kawasaki part #92055-1215 (size 19.8 X 2.2) The Unitrak linkage uses a LOT of O-rings around the bushings, and it isn't that unusual to find some damaged ones on a high-miles bike. It is imperative these O-rings are in good shape. You normally don't need any, but there's a bunch, and stalling the job for 3-4 days because you're missing a $2 part would be bad.
+*O-rings. Kawasaki part #92055-1215 (size 19.8 X 2.2) The Unitrak linkage uses a LOT of O-rings around the bushings, and it isn't that unusual to find some damaged ones on a high-miles bike. It is imperative that these O-rings are in good shape. You normally don't need any, but stalling the job for 3-4 days because you're missing a $2 part would be bad.
 ==Procedure==
@@ Line 35: / Line 41: @@
 [[Image:wheelremoved.jpg|150px]]
-) Remove the nuts from the swingarm pivot (22mm), lower shock mount (19mm) and upper tie rod arms (19mm), but do not remove the bolts or pivot shaft. The easiest way to remove the 19mm nuts is to "lock" them in place with a 19mm open-ended wrench, then spin their corresponding bolt heads with a 17mm socket, extension, and breaker bar (or ratchet + piece of pipe).
+) Remove the nuts from the swingarm pivot (22mm), lower shock mount (19mm) and upper tie rod arms (19mm), but do not remove the bolts or pivot shaft. The easiest way to remove the 19mm nuts is to "lock" them in place with a 19mm open-end wrench, then spin their corresponding bolt heads with a 17mm socket, extension, and breaker bar (or ratchet + piece of pipe).
 [[Image:swingarmclose.jpg|150px]] [[Image:pivotnutremoved.jpg|150px]]
@@ Line 51: / Line 57: @@
 Remove the rubber chain guard from the swingarm. Wipe off any crud from it and the swingarm. If you are planning to re-paint the swingarm when you see how horrible it looks, Duplicolor [http://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-HWP101-Silver-Performance-Wheel/dp/B000B6DFZ0 silver wheel paint], available at fine Wal-Mart stores everywhere, is a perfect match.
-) Remove the plastic rings from either end of the pivot shaft and clean them. They pop out easily with your fingernails.
+) Remove the plastic rings from either end of the pivot shaft sleeve and clean them. They pop out easily with your fingernails.
-) Remove the pivot shaft from the front of the swingarm by sliding it out one end.
+) Remove the pivot shaft sleeve from the front of the swingarm by sliding it out one end.
 ) Wash the pivot shaft, pivot shaft sleeve, and needle bearings with kerosene and dry thoroughly.