Installing emulators and springs: Difference between revisions

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Step 2. Remove the cotter pin (if present, as it should be) and break loose the front axle nut with your breaker bar.

Step 3. Remove the handlebars. Each bar is held by two hex bolts. It is not a good idea to let the handlebars dangle by the cabling, particularly in the case of the right handlebar and the brake line. There may be more elegant solutions, but just taping the left and right bars together with some masking tape over the instrument cluster works:

Step 3. Remove the handlebars. Each bar is held by two hex bolts. It is not a good idea to let the handlebars dangle by the cabling, particularly in the case of the right handlebar and the brake line. There may be more elegant solutions, but just taping the left and right bars together with some masking tape over the instrument cluster works.

[[image:18010131880.jpg|150px]]

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[[image:18010131893.jpg|150px]]

Step 4a: [[How do I remove the fork caps/pistons?|Remove the fork caps]]. The fork caps are held in place by a small ring that sits in a groove. The caps are preloaded by the fork spring, and there is a lot of pressure there, so be careful! The fork seal article suggests a couple of alternative methods to remove these that may or may not work. ~~Our author recommends a~~ two-jaw puller~~. It~~ is very easy and makes the work quick. You also have a controlled method for releasing the spring tension, which is probably the best reason. A 3-pack of pullers from Harbor Freight runs about $15. It is worth it.

Step 4a: [[How do I remove the fork caps/pistons?|Remove the fork caps]]. The fork caps are held in place by a small ring that sits in a groove. The caps are preloaded by the fork spring, and there is a lot of pressure there, so be careful! The fork seal article suggests a couple of alternative methods to remove these that may or may not work for you. A two-jaw puller, like the one used here, is very easy and makes the work quick. You also have a controlled method for releasing the spring tension, which is probably the best reason. A 3-pack of pullers from Harbor Freight runs about $15. It is worth it.

Step 4b: What you do is install the jaw puller and compress the spring enough to provide easy access to the ring. Then you use a $3.99 Chinese secret weapon:

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Step 14: De-burr and chamfer the holes, inside and out. Racetech instructs you to do this in the directions. When you chamfer the holes, you are essentially getting rid of the sharp 90-degree corners where you drilled the hole and replacing the straight line with a beveled edge. This makes the fluid (fork oil) flow better through the holes, which is why the extra holes are there in the first place.

One way to safely chamfer the hole would be to use a small, circular file. With the file held at a 45-degree angle to the rod, file evenly around the holes until the outside edge is beveled. Repeat for the inside edge. You'll need a file that has a smaller diameter than 5/16" (the diameter of the hole) in order to do this effectively.

One way to safely chamfer the hole would be to use a small circular file. With the file held at a 45-degree angle to the rod, file evenly around the holes until the outside edge is beveled. Repeat for the inside edge. You'll need a file that has a smaller diameter than 5/16" (the diameter of the hole) in order to do this effectively.

Another way would be to use a rotary tool (dremel) with a sanding bit. Do basically the same process as above. The dremel makes for light work, but it is much easier to make a mistake by removing too much material. It is also much easier to have an accident when chamfering the inner surface, since the tool is mostly inside the damper rod, and if/when it catches the wrong edge the tool can fling about violently. A drill bit on the dremel is most definitely the '''wrong''' tool for the job.

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[[image:18010132132.jpg|150px]]

Step 17: Now that the damper rod is back in place, the next major step is to measure out your fork spacers. The length of the fork spacers determines the preload setting for the fork spring. Longer = more preload. Sonic Springs recommends you set the preload to 1/2", so that's what was done. In order to measure this out, place the GVE atop the damper rod, followed by the new spring, followed by TWO washers (supplied by Sonic). Then, place the (not yet cut, long) spacer tube in and mark the tube at the top of the fork tube (let's call this length L). Next, measure (with the calipers) the width of the fork cap (~14mm) and the length down from the top of the fork tube to where the top of the fork cap sits (in the range of ~11mm) For 1/2" (12.7mm) of preload you want the top of the fork cap (with the spring uncompressed) to sit 1/2" above the ring-groove, so that means cutting the spacer to L - (14 + 11 - 12.7). ~~For me,~~ this equated to about 93mm.

Step 17: Now that the damper rod is back in place, the next major step is to measure out your fork spacers. For this part, see also [[Where can I get some preload spacers?]]

The length of the fork spacers determines the preload setting for the fork spring. Longer = more preload. Sonic Springs recommends you set the preload to 1/2", so that's what was done. In order to measure this out, place the GVE atop the damper rod, followed by the new spring, followed by TWO washers (supplied by Sonic). Then, place the (not yet cut, long) spacer tube in and mark the tube at the top of the fork tube (let's call this length L). Next, measure (with the calipers) the width of the fork cap (~14mm) and the length down from the top of the fork tube to where the top of the fork cap sits (in the range of ~11mm) For 1/2" (12.7mm) of preload you want the top of the fork cap (with the spring uncompressed) to sit 1/2" above the ring-groove, so that means cutting the spacer to L - (14 + 11 - 12.7). On this bike that equated to about 93mm.

Sonic springs gives you a long tube of PVC pipe to make the spacer. Cut the spacer to length and clean up the edges to prevent loose pieces of PVC from floating around.

Step 18: Add fork oil and bleed. This is done without the GVE or spring or anything else (other than the damper rod) in the fork tube. Add enough oil that when the fork is completely extended the oil still covers the inner tube. Pump the fork up and down a while until you hear (and see) no more air coming out. Not too complicated.

Step 18: Add fork oil and bleed. This is done without the GVE or spring or anything else (other than the damper rod) in the fork tube. Add enough oil so that when the fork is completely extended the oil still covers the inner tube. Pump the fork up and down a while until you hear (and see) no more air coming out. Not too complicated.

Step 19: Assembly~~/Set~~ fork oil level~~: Now, as~~ gently as possible so as to minimize a big splash of fork oil, drop the GVE down into the fork tube. Fully compress the fork. Measure from the top of the fork ~~the distance~~ to the fork oil. This is the important thing: the fork oil level. Racetech recommends 130mm of fork oil. Sonic Springs (and others on this website) suggest 115mm. 125mm was chosen by our rider. Remember to take your time. Set up a jig or something to hold the fork upright at this point, so ~~that~~ you don't spill fork oil.

Step 19: Assembly and setting the fork oil level. As gently as possible so as to minimize a big splash of fork oil, drop the GVE down into the fork tube. Fully compress the fork. Measure the distance down from the top of the fork to the fork oil. This is the important thing: the fork oil level. Racetech recommends 130mm of fork oil. Sonic Springs (and others on this website) suggest 115mm. 125mm was chosen by our rider. Remember to take your time. Set up a jig or something to hold the fork upright at this point so you don't spill fork oil.

Step 20: Install the fork springs ~~after that~~, then a washer, then the spacer, then another washer. ~~Now place~~ the fork cap back on. If everything is done correctly the cap will be 1/2" (preload setting) above the ring. So, you'll have to compress the spring to get the circle/ring clip (or [[How do I remove the fork caps/pistons?|new circlip]]) back on:

Step 20: Install the fork springs, then a washer, then the spacer, then another washer. Place the fork cap back on. If everything is done correctly, the cap will be 1/2" (preload setting) above the ring. So, you'll have to compress the spring to get the circle/ring clip (or [[How do I remove the fork caps/pistons?|new circlip]]) back on:

[[image:18010132199-2.jpg|150px]]

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Step 22: Use your trusty jaw puller tool to compress the spring and set the fork cap in place with the clip.

Step 23: ~~Now we want to set~~ the fork height to (probably, depending on your goals) what it was before. That was 12mm above the top triple clamp. Don't torque yet!!

Step 23: Set the fork height to (probably, depending on your goals) what it was before. That was 12mm above the top triple clamp on this bike. Don't torque yet!

Step 24: Install the fender.

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Step 25: Install the brake caliper. (torque 24 lb-ft)

Step 26: Install the front wheel. (axle nut torque 65 lb-ft)

Step 26: [[Reinstalling the front wheel|Install the front wheel]]. (axle nut torque 65 lb-ft)

Step 27: With the front end still supported by the jack (or whatever you're using ~~to support the bike~~) loosen up each fork in the triple clamps (one at a time, not both) in order to reduce any kind of imperceptible imbalance in fork height between either side. Do this for one side, then re-tighten, then repeat for the other side.

Step 27: With the front end still supported by the jack (or whatever you're using) loosen up each fork in the triple clamps (one at a time, not both) in order to reduce any kind of imperceptible imbalance in fork height between either side. Do this for one side, then re-tighten, then repeat for the other side.

Step 28: Torque the pinch bolts in the triple clamps to spec. Upper is 14.5 lb-ft, lower is 22 lb-ft, according to the shop manual.

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Step 32: Cautiously take your bike for a test ride.

Total time for an experienced machine worker, but who was a total newbie to forks, including clean-up and lunch break, was ~~about~~ 6 hours or so.

Total time for an experienced machine worker, but who was a total newbie to forks, including clean-up and lunch break, was 6 hours or so.

====Adjusting the emulators====

The Racetech instructions will tell you how to adjust these to your preference. Just note that after you have the ~~GVE's~~ installed, it's possible to remove them for adjustment by just dropping the handlebars, popping the fork caps, washers, spacers and springs, and fishing them out with a little loop of copper wire. There's no need to drop the wheel and remove the forks just to change those little adjustment springs.

The Racetech instructions will tell you how to adjust these to your preference. Just note that after you have the GVEs installed, it's possible to remove them for adjustment by just dropping the handlebars, popping the fork caps, washers, spacers and springs, and fishing them out with a little loop of copper wire. There's no need to drop the wheel and remove the forks just to change those little adjustment springs.

====Conclusions~~/Results:~~====

====Conclusions====

Like some other members have posted, the new suspension ~~REALLY~~ soaks up bumps. It is incredible. I tested out some reflectors (you know, the kind on the lane markers) at 40 mph, and by and large there was very little energy transmitted to the handlebars. And yet the increased stiffness is very noticeable when it comes to braking--there is weight transfer (as there should be) but the dramatic nose-dive is eliminated. SCORE!

From our owner: Like some other members have posted, the new suspension ''really'' soaks up bumps. It is incredible. I tested out some reflectors (you know, the kind on the lane markers) at 40 mph, and by and large there was very little energy transmitted to the handlebars. And yet the increased stiffness is very noticeable when it comes to braking--there is weight transfer (as there should be) but the dramatic nose-dive is eliminated. SCORE!

I would definitely recommend the stiffer springs and the GVE's to anyone who is interested in riding their EX250 for anything longer than a year. It is worth it. I feel more confident and safer because the bike feels planted and responsive.

If anything, the great front suspension now highlights the weakness of the stock rear suspension...

@@ Line 16: / Line 16: @@
 Step 2. Remove the cotter pin (if present, as it should be) and break loose the front axle nut with your breaker bar.
-Step 3. Remove the handlebars. Each bar is held by two hex bolts. It is not a good idea to let the handlebars dangle by the cabling, particularly in the case of the right handlebar and the brake line. There may be more elegant solutions, but just taping the left and right bars together with some masking tape over the instrument cluster works:
+Step 3. Remove the handlebars. Each bar is held by two hex bolts. It is not a good idea to let the handlebars dangle by the cabling, particularly in the case of the right handlebar and the brake line. There may be more elegant solutions, but just taping the left and right bars together with some masking tape over the instrument cluster works.
 [[image:18010131880.jpg|150px]]
@@ Line 25: / Line 25: @@
 [[image:18010131893.jpg|150px]]
-Step 4a: [[How do I remove the fork caps/pistons?|Remove the fork caps]]. The fork caps are held in place by a small ring that sits in a groove. The caps are preloaded by the fork spring, and there is a lot of pressure there, so be careful! The fork seal article suggests a couple of alternative methods to remove these that may or may not work. Our author recommends a two-jaw puller. It is very easy and makes the work quick. You also have a controlled method for releasing the spring tension, which is probably the best reason. A 3-pack of pullers from Harbor Freight runs about $15. It is worth it.
+Step 4a: [[How do I remove the fork caps/pistons?|Remove the fork caps]]. The fork caps are held in place by a small ring that sits in a groove. The caps are preloaded by the fork spring, and there is a lot of pressure there, so be careful! The fork seal article suggests a couple of alternative methods to remove these that may or may not work for you. A two-jaw puller, like the one used here, is very easy and makes the work quick. You also have a controlled method for releasing the spring tension, which is probably the best reason. A 3-pack of pullers from Harbor Freight runs about $15. It is worth it.
 Step 4b: What you do is install the jaw puller and compress the spring enough to provide easy access to the ring. Then you use a $3.99 Chinese secret weapon:
@@ Line 103: / Line 103: @@
 Step 14: De-burr and chamfer the holes, inside and out. Racetech instructs you to do this in the directions. When you chamfer the holes, you are essentially getting rid of the sharp 90-degree corners where you drilled the hole and replacing the straight line with a beveled edge. This makes the fluid (fork oil) flow better through the holes, which is why the extra holes are there in the first place.
-One way to safely chamfer the hole would be to use a small, circular file. With the file held at a 45-degree angle to the rod, file evenly around the holes until the outside edge is beveled. Repeat for the inside edge. You'll need a file that has a smaller diameter than 5/16" (the diameter of the hole) in order to do this effectively.
+One way to safely chamfer the hole would be to use a small circular file. With the file held at a 45-degree angle to the rod, file evenly around the holes until the outside edge is beveled. Repeat for the inside edge. You'll need a file that has a smaller diameter than 5/16" (the diameter of the hole) in order to do this effectively.
 Another way would be to use a rotary tool (dremel) with a sanding bit. Do basically the same process as above. The dremel makes for light work, but it is much easier to make a mistake by removing too much material. It is also much easier to have an accident when chamfering the inner surface, since the tool is mostly inside the damper rod, and if/when it catches the wrong edge the tool can fling about violently. A drill bit on the dremel is most definitely the '''wrong''' tool for the job.
@@ Line 119: / Line 119: @@
 [[image:18010132132.jpg|150px]]
-Step 17: Now that the damper rod is back in place, the next major step is to measure out your fork spacers. The length of the fork spacers determines the preload setting for the fork spring. Longer = more preload. Sonic Springs recommends you set the preload to 1/2", so that's what was done. In order to measure this out, place the GVE atop the damper rod, followed by the new spring, followed by TWO washers (supplied by Sonic). Then, place the (not yet cut, long) spacer tube in and mark the tube at the top of the fork tube (let's call this length L). Next, measure (with the calipers) the width of the fork cap (~14mm) and the length down from the top of the fork tube to where the top of the fork cap sits (in the range of ~11mm)  For 1/2" (12.7mm) of preload you want the top of the fork cap (with the spring uncompressed) to sit 1/2" above the ring-groove, so that means cutting the spacer to L - (14 + 11 - 12.7). For me, this equated to about 93mm.
+Step 17: Now that the damper rod is back in place, the next major step is to measure out your fork spacers. For this part, see also [[Where can I get some preload spacers?]]
+The length of the fork spacers determines the preload setting for the fork spring. Longer = more preload. Sonic Springs recommends you set the preload to 1/2", so that's what was done. In order to measure this out, place the GVE atop the damper rod, followed by the new spring, followed by TWO washers (supplied by Sonic). Then, place the (not yet cut, long) spacer tube in and mark the tube at the top of the fork tube (let's call this length L). Next, measure (with the calipers) the width of the fork cap (~14mm) and the length down from the top of the fork tube to where the top of the fork cap sits (in the range of ~11mm)  For 1/2" (12.7mm) of preload you want the top of the fork cap (with the spring uncompressed) to sit 1/2" above the ring-groove, so that means cutting the spacer to L - (14 + 11 - 12.7). On this bike that equated to about 93mm.
 Sonic springs gives you a long tube of PVC pipe to make the spacer. Cut the spacer to length and clean up the edges to prevent loose pieces of PVC from floating around.
-Step 18: Add fork oil and bleed. This is done without the GVE or spring or anything else (other than the damper rod) in the fork tube. Add enough oil that when the fork is completely extended the oil still covers the inner tube. Pump the fork up and down a while until you hear (and see) no more air coming out. Not too complicated.
+Step 18: Add fork oil and bleed. This is done without the GVE or spring or anything else (other than the damper rod) in the fork tube. Add enough oil so that when the fork is completely extended the oil still covers the inner tube. Pump the fork up and down a while until you hear (and see) no more air coming out. Not too complicated.
-Step 19: Assembly/Set fork oil level: Now, as gently as possible so as to minimize a big splash of fork oil, drop the GVE down into the fork tube. Fully compress the fork. Measure from the top of the fork the distance to the fork oil. This is the important thing: the fork oil level. Racetech recommends 130mm of fork oil. Sonic Springs (and others on this website) suggest 115mm. 125mm was chosen by our rider. Remember to take your time. Set up a jig or something to hold the fork upright at this point, so that you don't spill fork oil.
+Step 19: Assembly and setting the fork oil level. As gently as possible so as to minimize a big splash of fork oil, drop the GVE down into the fork tube. Fully compress the fork. Measure the distance down from the top of the fork to the fork oil. This is the important thing: the fork oil level. Racetech recommends 130mm of fork oil. Sonic Springs (and others on this website) suggest 115mm. 125mm was chosen by our rider. Remember to take your time. Set up a jig or something to hold the fork upright at this point so you don't spill fork oil.
-Step 20: Install the fork springs after that, then a washer, then the spacer, then another washer. Now place the fork cap back on. If everything is done correctly the cap will be 1/2" (preload setting) above the ring. So, you'll have to compress the spring to get the circle/ring clip (or [[How do I remove the fork caps/pistons?|new circlip]]) back on:
+Step 20: Install the fork springs, then a washer, then the spacer, then another washer. Place the fork cap back on. If everything is done correctly, the cap will be 1/2" (preload setting) above the ring. So, you'll have to compress the spring to get the circle/ring clip (or [[How do I remove the fork caps/pistons?|new circlip]]) back on:
 [[image:18010132199-2.jpg|150px]]
@@ Line 135: / Line 137: @@
 Step 22: Use your trusty jaw puller tool to compress the spring and set the fork cap in place with the clip.
-Step 23: Now we want to set the fork height to (probably, depending on your goals) what it was before. That was 12mm above the top triple clamp. Don't torque yet!!
+Step 23: Set the fork height to (probably, depending on your goals) what it was before. That was 12mm above the top triple clamp on this bike. Don't torque yet!
 Step 24: Install the fender.
@@ Line 141: / Line 143: @@
 Step 25: Install the brake caliper. (torque 24 lb-ft)
-Step 26: Install the front wheel. (axle nut torque 65 lb-ft)
+Step 26: [[Reinstalling the front wheel|Install the front wheel]]. (axle nut torque 65 lb-ft)
-Step 27: With the front end still supported by the jack (or whatever you're using to support the bike) loosen up each fork in the triple clamps (one at a time, not both) in order to reduce any kind of imperceptible imbalance in fork height between either side. Do this for one side, then re-tighten, then repeat for the other side.
+Step 27: With the front end still supported by the jack (or whatever you're using) loosen up each fork in the triple clamps (one at a time, not both) in order to reduce any kind of imperceptible imbalance in fork height between either side. Do this for one side, then re-tighten, then repeat for the other side.
 Step 28: Torque the pinch bolts in the triple clamps to spec. Upper is 14.5 lb-ft, lower is 22 lb-ft, according to the shop manual.
@@ Line 155: / Line 157: @@
 Step 32: Cautiously take your bike for a test ride.
-Total time for an experienced machine worker, but who was a total newbie to forks, including clean-up and lunch break, was about 6 hours or so.
+Total time for an experienced machine worker, but who was a total newbie to forks, including clean-up and lunch break, was 6 hours or so.
 ====Adjusting the emulators====
-The Racetech instructions will tell you how to adjust these to your preference. Just note that after you have the GVE's installed, it's possible to remove them for adjustment by just dropping the handlebars, popping the fork caps, washers, spacers and springs, and fishing them out with a little loop of copper wire. There's no need to drop the wheel and remove the forks just to change those little adjustment springs.
+The Racetech instructions will tell you how to adjust these to your preference. Just note that after you have the GVEs installed, it's possible to remove them for adjustment by just dropping the handlebars, popping the fork caps, washers, spacers and springs, and fishing them out with a little loop of copper wire. There's no need to drop the wheel and remove the forks just to change those little adjustment springs.
-====Conclusions/Results:====
+====Conclusions====
-Like some other members have posted, the new suspension REALLY soaks up bumps. It is incredible. I tested out some reflectors (you know, the kind on the lane markers) at 40 mph, and by and large there was very little energy transmitted to the handlebars. And yet the increased stiffness is very noticeable when it comes to braking--there is weight transfer (as there should be) but the dramatic nose-dive is eliminated. SCORE!
+From our owner: Like some other members have posted, the new suspension ''really'' soaks up bumps. It is incredible. I tested out some reflectors (you know, the kind on the lane markers) at 40 mph, and by and large there was very little energy transmitted to the handlebars. And yet the increased stiffness is very noticeable when it comes to braking--there is weight transfer (as there should be) but the dramatic nose-dive is eliminated. SCORE!
 I would definitely recommend the stiffer springs and the GVE's to anyone who is interested in riding their EX250 for anything longer than a year. It is worth it. I feel more confident and safer because the bike feels planted and responsive.
 If anything, the great front suspension now highlights the weakness of the stock rear suspension...