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I want a louder horn: Difference between revisions

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That little "beep, beep" of the OEM horn, ''IF'' heard by anyone, only makes them look around for a clown car. Since you're not in a clown car, and you want people to acknowledge your presence, a better horn is in order.
That little "beep, beep" of the OEM horn, ''IF'' heard by anyone, only makes them look around for a clown car. Since you're not in a clown car, and you want people to acknowledge your presence, a better horn is in order.


You can get a '''LOUD''' FIAMM horn for about $15 at a regular car-parts store (e.g. O'Reilly, Advance Auto Parts, etc.) Places on eBay have them, as well as  [http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Search?catalogId=10101&storeId=10101&sku=fiamm+horn&searchbtn.x=0&searchbtn.y=0 JC Whitney] and [http://ridesafer.com/store/item/fpc3/Horns/Fiamm_AM-80_High_Performance_Trumpet_Horn.html ridesafer.com].
==Aftermarket horn==


Get the low-tone; The 125 dB [http://www.fiammamerica.com/Product.asp?ProductID=154 AM80] is popular, as is the 132 dB [http://www.aerostich.com/catalog/US/Fiamm-Freeway-Blaster-Horn-p-17137.html Freeway Blaster]. They're way louder, and are a bolt-in replacement for the stock horn. Point the bell of the trumpet down so it doesn't collect water, and cover your ears before you test it in an enclosed space. Even with it pointing down, it is loud and can be heard by cars and other motorcycles easily.  
You can get a '''LOUD''' FIAMM horn for about $15 at a regular car-parts store (e.g. O'Reilly, Advance Auto Parts, etc.) Places on eBay have them, as well as  [http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Search?catalogId=10101&storeId=10101&sku=fiamm+horn&searchbtn.x=0&searchbtn.y=0 JC Whitney], [http://ridesafer.com/store/item/fpc3/Horns/Fiamm_AM-80_High_Performance_Trumpet_Horn.html ridesafer.com], and [http://www.amazon.com/FIAMM-72112-Note-Universal-Bracket/dp/B000DINKPQ Amazon].
 
Get the low-tone; The 125 dB [http://www.fiammamerica.com/Product.asp?ProductID=154 AM80] is popular, as is the 132 dB [http://www.aerostich.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=freeway+blaster&dir=desc&order=relevance Freeway Blaster]. They're way louder, and are a bolt-in replacement for the stock horn. Point the bell of the trumpet down so it doesn't collect water, and cover your ears before you test it in an enclosed space. Even with it pointing down, it is loud and can be heard by cars and other motorcycles easily.  


If you look at the catalog you might be overwhelmed by the amount of choices FIAMM offers. So don't look at the catalog. It's generally the same product in different packaging to meet the needs of the retailer. Here are your criteria:
If you look at the catalog you might be overwhelmed by the amount of choices FIAMM offers. So don't look at the catalog. It's generally the same product in different packaging to meet the needs of the retailer. Here are your criteria:
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[[Image:FIAMM Horn.jpg|150px]]
[[Image:FIAMM Horn.jpg|150px]]


====Installation====
==Installation==


The installation is very straightforward:
The installation is very straightforward:
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[[Image:horn1890.jpg|150px]] [[Image:IMG_1891.jpg|150px]]
[[Image:horn1890.jpg|150px]] [[Image:IMG_1891.jpg|150px]]


To install the new horn, start off by loose fitting it, with the wiring reattached, so you can figure out the best angle. Make sure that the mouth of the horn is pointing downwards, so as not to collect water, and that the existing wiring is not stretched.  
To install the new horn, start off by loose fitting it, with the wiring reattached, so you can figure out the best angle. Make sure that the mouth of the horn is pointing downwards, so as not to collect water, and that the existing wiring is not stretched. Most aftermarket horns will say something to the effect that they are "polarity-free", meaning that it doesn't matter which of the two horn wires you hook to which terminal. Check the instructions for your particular model.  


Secure the bolt to the bracket, then tighten the bracket to the bike.  
Secure the bolt to the bracket, then tighten the bracket to the bike.  
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[[Image:IMG_1895.jpg|150px]] [[Image:IMG_1899.jpg|100px]]
[[Image:IMG_1895.jpg|150px]] [[Image:IMG_1899.jpg|100px]]


====Before & after sound links====
[http://s75.photobucket.com/albums/i307/gulley04/ninja%20250/?action=view&current=Hornupgrade.flv FIAMM Freeway Blaster 1]
[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e97Clplscjo FIAMM Freeway Blaster 2]


==Using a relay to power your horn==
==Using a relay to power your horn==


To provide the most power, and thus get the most noise, you can wire a relay to power your horn. This isn't necessary; some people do, some don't. The OEM harness runs the horn power through a mile of wiring and a dozen different connections until it gets to the horn switch. There are lots of places for voltage drop. So, with [[How do relays work?|a relay]], you use the OEM wiring to power the relay and put in new wiring for the horn. The relay uses a small amount of power (the original switch circuit) to turn on and off a bigger amount of power (the new heavier wire) to the horn. This is true for bigger headlights or any other higher-current-draw accessories you want to add to your motorcycle.
To provide the most power, and thus get the most noise, you can wire a relay to power your horn. This isn't necessary, but it is a good idea. The OEM harness runs the horn power through a mile of wiring and a dozen different connections until it gets to the horn switch. There are lots of places for voltage drop. With [[How do relays work?|a relay]], you use the OEM wiring to power the relay and then put in new wiring for the horn. The relay uses a small amount of power (the original switch circuit) to turn on and off a bigger amount of power (the new heavier wire) to the horn. This is true for bigger headlights or any other higher-current-draw accessories you want to add to your motorcycle.


====Stuff you'll need====
====Stuff you'll need====


All the components for this project are available at Wal-Mart/Radio Shack/Autozone-ish stores.
All the components for this project are available at Wal-Mart/Radio Shack/Autozone-ish stores. '''Take the fuse out of the holder and don't connect anything to the battery until everything is in place.'''


*A 30 amp, four-pin relay. Numbers on the relay pins should be 30, 85, 86, and 87. Bosch, Omron, and Hella are all good quality.
*A 30 amp, four-pin relay. Numbers on the relay pins should be 30, 85, 86, and 87. Bosch, Omron, and Hella are all good quality.
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*Several feet of flexible ''stranded'' copper wire. 14 gauge is generally recommended. Positive/hot/+ is usually red. Use a different color for ground (negative). Always use stranded wire in auto/moto applications. Pictures show stranded (left) and solid (right) wire.   
*Several feet of flexible ''stranded'' copper wire. 14 gauge is generally recommended. Positive/hot/+ is usually red. Use a different color for ground (negative). Always use stranded wire in auto/moto applications. Pictures show stranded (left) and solid (right) wire.   


:[[image:stranded wire.JPG|80px]] [[Image:solid wire.JPG|80px]]
:[[image:stranded wire.JPG|80px]] [[Image:solid wire 2.JPG|80px]]


*Crimp connectors  
*Crimp connectors  
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:[[image:heat shrink tubing.jpg|80px]] [[image:heat shrink.jpg|130px]]
:[[image:heat shrink tubing.jpg|80px]] [[image:heat shrink.jpg|130px]]


:Or the kind of [http://www.whiteproducts.net/splices.shtml connectors] that already have heat shrink on them.
:Or the kind of connectors that already have heat shrink on them.


:[[image:heat shrink crimp.jpg|150px]]
:[[image:heat shrink crimp.jpg|150px]]
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First, study the schematic. This may be all the directions some people need.  
First, study the schematic. This may be all the directions some people need.  


[[image:horn relay diagram.gif|150px]]
{{pdf|Aftermarket Horn Schematic.pdf|Aftermarket Horn Schematic}}


Next, wire up the relay. Do this before you install it, so you don't have to take stuff apart if it doesn't work.  
Next, wire up the relay. Do this before you install it, so you don't have to take stuff apart if it doesn't work.  
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====How this works====
====How this works====


The pair 85-86 are the trigger. When a circuit is made through this pair, via the horn switch, a switch on the pair 30-87 is toggled from open to closed. When this switch is closed, 30-87 are connected; this connects the battery to the new horn, and we get sound.  
The pair 85-86 are the trigger. When a circuit is made through this pair, via the horn switch, a switch on the pair 30-87 is toggled from open to closed. When this switch is closed, 30-87 are connected; this connects the battery to the new horn, and we get sound.
 
==Using a Stebel air horn==
 
This is not a complete how-to; rather, an informal guide, with diagrams, and pictures and comments from the owners.
 
There is a [http://www.amazon.com/Wiring-Stebel-Nautilus-Compact-Motorcycle/dp/B000TK8NN2/ref=pd_bxgy_auto_img_b wiring kit] available, if you want to go that route, but you should be OK without it. The hardest part is going to be finding a place to mount it.
 
====Classic model====
 
Diagram: [[image:Stebel Horn Schematic.pdf|Stebel horn schematic]]
 
The [http://www.casporttouring.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CST&Product_Code=Stebel11135&Category_Code= Stebel Nautilus Compact] is a 12VDC electro-pneumatic horn drawing 18amps. Finding an area to install the horn on the Ninja 250 is somewhat problematic. For this installation, I chose the area alongside the left-hand cylinder, underneath the cowling, as this allows the horn to be mounted out of sight, remain reasonably well protected from the weather, and allow the blast of sound to escape with minimal interference. I designed a simple bracket that attaches to the left-hand ignition coil mounting bolts. Here are some photos of the bracket and Stebel installed on the Ninja 250.
 
[[image:Stebel Bracket Layout.pdf]]
 
[[image:Stebel_Install_011.jpg|150px]]
[[image:Stebel_Install_014.jpg|150px]]
[[image:Stebel_Install_008.jpg|150px]]
 
Electric power is supplied via a new circuit from the battery, with a 20amp fuse and 12VDC relay. the relay coil is triggered by the original horn switch and wiring harness. This is the same as for the replacement horns described above.
 
[[image:668263.jpg|150px]]
[[image:Stebel_Install_004.jpg|150px]]
 
[[image:Stebel_Install_006-2.jpg|100px]]
[[image:667988.jpg|100px]]
 
====J model====
 
Bring on the Noise... 139dB worth please.
 
I installed the Stebel Nautilus Compact on the '08 250. I left the stock horn wired in place, and you can just blip the horn button and get the standard "meep, meep". Handy for beeping at pedestrians without giving them a heart attack. But if you lay on the button, the air compressor spools up and the full force of the horn comes out.
 
I decided the best mounting location was on the right side, hanging off the lower radiator mount.
 
[[image:Horn 1.jpg|150px]]
 
This is from the top. You can see the L bracket I used. It came with another horn kit sometime in the past. You can make or find one yourself. 
 
[[image:Horn 2.jpg|150px]]
 
In the interest of running as little wiring as possible, I mounted the relay directly above the new horn, using a factory threaded, but unused, mounting point. I pulled the leads for the stock horn through the center hole and to the relay. Power runs along the factory wiring harness and directly to the battery (for now). I'm going to put in a fused aux. harness. Power and negative leads for both horns share connectors. You can see the ground in the picture.
 
[[image:Horn 3.jpg|150px]]
 
Showing wires to the stock horn.
 
[[image:Horn 4.jpg|100px]]
 
And again, new wires to stock horn.
 
[[image:Horn 5.jpg|150px]]
 
Overview of the area... relay up top, horn down below. Wiring is loose, but tucked behind the right side coil.  


[[image:Horn 6.jpg|150px]]


'''Sound link:''' [http://s75.photobucket.com/albums/i307/gulley04/ninja%20250/?action=view&current=Hornupgrade.flv          FIAMM Freeway Blaster]
[http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-4105770512852280838&hl=en Google video]... Forgive the bad radio station in the background. We only have 2; country and one hit wonders
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