Replacing the wheel bearings: Difference between revisions

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If a bearing is bad enough that it needs to be replaced, you will usually be able to hear it making more noise than usual when you're riding. You should also be in the habit of checking the bearings every time you have the wheel off, and [[Greasing the axles & wheel bearings|regreasing them]] as necessary.

When inspecting, keep these things in mind. If they're notchy (don't turn smoothly) when you turn the wheel by hand, they need to be replaced. Also, if there's any lateral play (the wheel moves side-to-side) they need to be replaced. They should be a little stiff to turn by hand, but not very stiff if you're rolling the wheel while it's still on the bike. Bearings are dirt cheap to replace, and should be done if there is any question.

When inspecting, keep these things in mind. If they're notchy (don't turn smoothly) when you turn the wheel by hand, they need to be replaced. Also, if there's any lateral play (the wheel moves side-to-side) they need to be replaced. They should be a little stiff to turn by hand, but not very stiff if you're rolling the wheel while it's still on the bike. Bearings are dirt cheap to replace and should be done if there is any question.

==How to find replacement bearings==

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The easiest way to find the part number you need before you start disassembling everything is to go to the [http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/Module/Main/TypeID/26/Type/Motorcycle/MakeID/3/Make/Kawasaki Ron Ayers parts fiche] and look up the part numbers for your year of bike. Yes, every year should be the same, but you need to be sure. You don't, however, have to (or want to) order them there, or even at a bike shop. Search out the bearing supply place closest to you. If you can't find one, a good auto parts shop should have what you need.

~~The body of the bearing~~ part numbers are fairly universal (ie... a #6203 bearing from any brand will be the same, fit-wise). There are two wheel bearings for the front (usually the same). There are three in the rear: one on each side and one in the sprocket carrier. These are usually three different part numbers. Make sure you keep track of which bearing goes where. You don't want to be trying to pound your new bearing into the wrong place.

Bearing part numbers are fairly universal (ie... a #6203 bearing from any brand will be the same, fit-wise). There are two wheel bearings for the front (usually the same). There are three in the rear: one on each side and one in the sprocket carrier. These are usually three different part numbers. Make sure you keep track of which bearing goes where. You don't want to be trying to pound your new bearing into the wrong place.

Here's what you should find when looking up the part numbers for your wheel bearings, along with the standard sizes for that bearing number:

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Another alternative is a [http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=4876 bearing puller]. This particular puller needs a flat, sturdy surface to push against, with two points on the opposite sides of the bearing, 180 degrees apart. As you will notice, there really aren't any on the wheels. So, lay two bars of scrap metal across the wheel, close to the bearing, to provide support.

[[image:HF bearing puller.jpg|100px]]

If you don't want to spend the money on the tool set, you can sometimes get by with a drift (aka a punch), or a long 3/8 drive extension. Some have had success with a BFSD (large screwdriver). Some have had no success and ended up getting the Motion Pro tool. Since you're not trying to save the old ones, feel free to bash away at the inner race. The tube that runs through the wheel doesn't usually completely cover the inner race, so you can kind of get a purchase on it, beating the bearing out from the opposite side of the wheel. The down side is that you have to move around the race to get the bearing out evenly, and you're going to have to be careful, because the drift will probably slip off and bust your knuckles a few times (think "leather gloves").

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==Installation of new bearings==

For putting the new bearings in, all you need to do is hammer them in. '''Important:''' ''You only want to put pressure on the outer race (the outside rim of the bearing)''. You can do this with a bearing seating kit (check auto parts stores), or a socket that you carefully hold in place so you don't hit the bearings. You can also disassemble an old bearing and use only the outer race, with a piece of wood on top of it, to drive the new bearing in.

For putting the new bearings in, all you need to do is hammer them in. '''Important:''' You only want to put pressure on the '''outer''' race (the outside rim of the bearing). You can do this with a bearing seating kit (check auto parts stores), or a socket that you carefully hold in place so you don't hit the bearings. You can also disassemble an old bearing and use only the outer race, with a piece of wood on top of it, to drive the new bearing in.

Did you happen to notice the part where we said to leave the bearings in the freezer until just before you install them?

The new bearings should last significantly longer than your stock ones.

@@ Line 12: / Line 12: @@
 If a bearing is bad enough that it needs to be replaced, you will usually be able to hear it making more noise than usual when you're riding. You should also be in the habit of checking the bearings every time you have the wheel off, and [[Greasing the axles & wheel bearings|regreasing them]] as necessary.
-When inspecting, keep these things in mind. If they're notchy (don't turn smoothly) when you turn the wheel by hand, they need to be replaced. Also, if there's any lateral play (the wheel moves side-to-side) they need to be replaced. They should be a little stiff to turn by hand, but not very stiff if you're rolling the wheel while it's still on the bike. Bearings are dirt cheap to replace, and should be done if there is any question.
+When inspecting, keep these things in mind. If they're notchy (don't turn smoothly) when you turn the wheel by hand, they need to be replaced. Also, if there's any lateral play (the wheel moves side-to-side) they need to be replaced. They should be a little stiff to turn by hand, but not very stiff if you're rolling the wheel while it's still on the bike. Bearings are dirt cheap to replace and should be done if there is any question.
 ==How to find replacement bearings==
@@ Line 20: / Line 20: @@
 The easiest way to find the part number you need before you start disassembling everything is to go to the [http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/Module/Main/TypeID/26/Type/Motorcycle/MakeID/3/Make/Kawasaki Ron Ayers parts fiche] and look up the part numbers for your year of bike. Yes, every year should be the same, but you need to be sure. You don't, however, have to (or want to) order them there, or even at a bike shop. Search out the bearing supply place closest to you. If you can't find one, a good auto parts shop should have what you need.
-The body of the bearing part numbers are fairly universal (ie... a #6203 bearing from any brand will be the same, fit-wise). There are two wheel bearings for the front (usually the same). There are three in the rear: one on each side and one in the sprocket carrier. These are usually three different part numbers. Make sure you keep track of which bearing goes where. You don't want to be trying to pound your new bearing into the wrong place.
+Bearing part numbers are fairly universal (ie... a #6203 bearing from any brand will be the same, fit-wise). There are two wheel bearings for the front (usually the same). There are three in the rear: one on each side and one in the sprocket carrier. These are usually three different part numbers. Make sure you keep track of which bearing goes where. You don't want to be trying to pound your new bearing into the wrong place.
 Here's what you should find when looking up the part numbers for your wheel bearings, along with the standard sizes for that bearing number:
@@ Line 47: / Line 47: @@
 Another alternative is a [http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=4876 bearing puller]. This particular puller needs a flat, sturdy surface to push against, with two points on the opposite sides of the bearing, 180 degrees apart. As you will notice, there really aren't any on the wheels. So, lay two bars of scrap metal across the wheel, close to the bearing, to provide support.
+[[image:HF bearing puller.jpg|100px]]
 If you don't want to spend the money on the tool set, you can sometimes get by with a drift (aka a punch), or a long 3/8 drive extension. Some have had success with a BFSD (large screwdriver). Some have had no success and ended up getting the Motion Pro tool. Since you're not trying to save the old ones, feel free to bash away at the inner race. The tube that runs through the wheel doesn't usually completely cover the inner race, so you can kind of get a purchase on it, beating the bearing out from the opposite side of the wheel. The down side is that you have to move around the race to get the bearing out evenly, and you're going to have to be careful, because the drift will probably slip off and bust your knuckles a few times (think "leather gloves").
@@ Line 64: / Line 66: @@
 ==Installation of new bearings==
-For putting the new bearings in, all you need to do is hammer them in. '''Important:''' ''You only want to put pressure on the outer race (the outside rim of the bearing)''. You can do this with a bearing seating kit (check auto parts stores), or a socket that you carefully hold in place so you don't hit the bearings. You can also disassemble an old bearing and use only the outer race, with a piece of wood on top of it, to drive the new bearing in.
+For putting the new bearings in, all you need to do is hammer them in. '''Important:''' You only want to put pressure on the '''outer''' race (the outside rim of the bearing). You can do this with a bearing seating kit (check auto parts stores), or a socket that you carefully hold in place so you don't hit the bearings. You can also disassemble an old bearing and use only the outer race, with a piece of wood on top of it, to drive the new bearing in.
 Did you happen to notice the part where we said to leave the bearings in the freezer until just before you install them?
 The new bearings should last significantly longer than your stock ones.