Steering head bearing replacement: Difference between revisions
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'''^^^'''bearing race didn't look that bad, I probably would have re-used it if it was smooth inside (hard to tell whether the marks are dents or just discoloration) If the steering wasn't notchy but looked like that, I would re-use. | |||
You could go the OEM way, but for less money you can have a set of sealed tapered roller bearings from All Balls. These [[A brief guide to bearings|sealed bearings]] will last longer and require less maintenance. They will raise your bars 1/8-1/4", which is irrelevant for most folks. | You could go the OEM way, but for less money you can have a set of sealed tapered roller bearings from All Balls. These [[A brief guide to bearings|sealed bearings]] will last longer and require less maintenance. They will raise your bars 1/8-1/4", which is irrelevant for most folks. | ||
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* Both handlebars | * Both handlebars | ||
* Loosen the bolts on the upper and lower triple clamps one side at a time and take both forks out, taking care not to scratch the shiny surface unnecessarily. | * Forks: Loosen the bolts on the upper and lower triple clamps one side at a time and take both forks out, taking care not to scratch the shiny surface unnecessarily. | ||
* Disconnect the horn connectors and unbolt the horn. | * Disconnect the horn connectors and unbolt the horn. | ||
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Once the nut is removed, remove the dust cover and the upper bearing race and all the ball bearings. Keep all of this in case they can be reused. Watch for balls rolling around your workspace. Slide the triple tree down and remove the lower race and balls. Inspect these and set them aside for now if you decide to replace them. | Once the nut is removed, remove the dust cover and the upper bearing race and all the ball bearings. Keep all of this in case they can be reused. Watch for balls rolling around your workspace. Slide the triple tree down and remove the lower race and balls. Inspect these and set them aside for now if you decide to replace them. | ||
Using a bearing puller, a piece of PVC pipe in the correct size, or a simple punch, knock out the races that are stuck in the frame. Don't worry about damaging the races; they're going to be replaced. Clean the places that hold the races on the frame with a rag, getting out all the dirt and grime. | Using a bearing puller, a piece of PVC pipe in the correct size, or a simple punch, knock out the races that are stuck in the frame. Don't worry about damaging the races; they're going to be replaced. Clean the places that hold the races on the frame with a rag, getting out all the dirt and grime. | ||
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Tighten the stem nut up VERY tight, as hard as you think you can and still get it off. You are trying to seat the bearings, and you want maximum compression on all the bearings. Loosen it off until you can turn the triple tree freely. | Tighten the stem nut up VERY tight, as hard as you think you can and still get it off. You are trying to seat the bearings, and you want maximum compression on all the bearings. Loosen it off until you can turn the triple tree freely. | ||
Adjust the tightness of the stem nut. You want it tightened to just before it binds. No looser and no tighter. You want your bars to turn freely lock to lock with just a push of your hand (while the front end is suspended). Tighten the nut until it gets a bit of resistance, then back off a tad. Then do that again to make sure. | |||
It's important to recheck the stem nut torque after riding for a week or two, as it may have 'settled' and become loose. | |||
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Reassemble the forks, fender, wheel, brake caliper, handlebars, and controls. Leave all of the nuts loose except the fender, as you can't reach those with the wheel on. | Reassemble the forks, fender, wheel, brake caliper, handlebars, and controls. Leave all of the nuts loose except the fender, as you can't reach those with the wheel on. | ||
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