Steering head bearing replacement: Difference between revisions

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[[image:IMG_5703.jpg|200px]]

You can also get tapered roller bearings from All Balls. These will last longer and require less maintenance. They will raise your bars 1/8-1/4", which is not something you're going to notice.

You can also get tapered roller bearings from All Balls. You can get them directly, or check with a local shop that sells from the Parts Unlimited or Tucker Rocky catalogs. These will last longer and require less maintenance. They will raise your bars 1/8-1/4", which is not something you're going to notice.

The part number for the [http://207.245.78.117/allballs/index.php/22-1014.html All Balls kit] is 22-1014, and this kit contains the following:

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* Brake caliper: Brake hose doesn't have to be disconnected, but tie the caliper up so it doesn't hang by the hose.

* Both handlebars: Make sure the brake reservoir remains in an upright position, to keep air out of the line. You can leave everything connected to the bars.

~~'''<<<Can you leave everything connected to the bars?>>>'''~~

* Both handlebars: Make sure the brake reservoir remains in an upright position, to keep air out of the line.

~~---------------------------------------------------------------------~~

* Forks: Loosen the bolts on the upper and lower triple clamps one side at a time and take both forks out, taking care not to scratch the shiny surface.

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* Disconnect the horn connectors and unbolt the horn.

Remove the stem lock bolt by turning the bars to their lock to the left and then using a wrench. The top triple tree should come off now and reveal the stem nut itself. ~~There are a couple ways to~~ remove the nut:

Remove the stem lock bolt by turning the bars to their lock to the left and then using a wrench. The top triple tree should come off now and reveal the stem nut itself. To remove the nut, use a spanner such as the kind used to adjust shock preload. An [http://www.bikebandit.com/drag-specialties-shock-spanner-wrench adjustable spanner] like the one on the right should be usable for other tasks.

~~'''<<<Which method? Preferred? More info? Don't know if there are different sizes of spanners.>>>''' This is the part that kept me from working on this article for a couple months.~~

*Use a spanner such as the kind used to adjust shock preload.

:[~~[image:shock spanner.jpg|200px]]~~

http://www.bikebandit.com/drag-specialties-shock-spanner-wrench

*Use a punch with a 90' nose and carefully hammer the ~~nut until it's loose~~.

*>> Wes: Cheap-as-possible #3 Flat-tip screwdriver (use for steering head nut, you bang it with a mallet)

~~---------------------------------------------------------~~

:[[image:shock spanner.jpg|150px]]

:[[image:adjustable shock spanner.gif|150px]]

The alternative, and definitely not the right tool for the job, is to get a punch with a 90' nose or a cheap-as-possible #3 flat-tip screwdriver and carefully hammer the nut until it's loose. It's much harder to get the adjustment right at the end with this method, and it also provides more opportunities to slip and damage something (like your hand).

Once the nut is removed, remove the dust cover, the upper bearing race, and all the ball bearings. Keep it all, in case it can be reused. Watch for balls rolling around your workspace. Slide the triple tree down and remove the lower race and balls. Inspect these and set them aside for now if you decide to replace them.

@@ Line 35: / Line 35: @@
 [[image:IMG_5703.jpg|200px]]
-You can also get tapered roller bearings from All Balls. These will last longer and require less maintenance. They will raise your bars 1/8-1/4", which is not something you're going to notice.
+You can also get tapered roller bearings from All Balls. You can get them directly, or check with a local shop that sells from the Parts Unlimited or Tucker Rocky catalogs. These will last longer and require less maintenance. They will raise your bars 1/8-1/4", which is not something you're going to notice.
 The part number for the [http://207.245.78.117/allballs/index.php/22-1014.html All Balls kit] is 22-1014, and this kit contains the following:
@@ Line 55: / Line 55: @@
 * Brake caliper: Brake hose doesn't have to be disconnected, but tie the caliper up so it doesn't hang by the hose.
+* Both handlebars: Make sure the brake reservoir remains in an upright position, to keep air out of the line. You can leave everything connected to the bars.
-'''<<<Can you leave everything connected to the bars?>>>'''
-* Both handlebars: Make sure the brake reservoir remains in an upright position, to keep air out of the line.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
 * Forks: Loosen the bolts on the upper and lower triple clamps one side at a time and take both forks out, taking care not to scratch the shiny surface.
@@ Line 70: / Line 61: @@
 * Disconnect the horn connectors and unbolt the horn.
-Remove the stem lock bolt by turning the bars to their lock to the left and then using a wrench. The top triple tree should come off now and reveal the stem nut itself. There are a couple ways to remove the nut:
+Remove the stem lock bolt by turning the bars to their lock to the left and then using a wrench. The top triple tree should come off now and reveal the stem nut itself. To remove the nut, use a spanner such as the kind used to adjust shock preload. An [http://www.bikebandit.com/drag-specialties-shock-spanner-wrench adjustable spanner] like the one on the right should be usable for other tasks.
-'''<<<Which method? Preferred? More info? Don't know if there are different sizes of spanners.>>>''' This is the part that kept me from working on this article for a couple months.
-*Use a spanner such as the kind used to adjust shock preload.
-:[[image:shock spanner.jpg|200px]]
-http://www.bikebandit.com/drag-specialties-shock-spanner-wrench
-*Use a punch with a 90' nose and carefully hammer the nut until it's loose.
-*>> Wes: Cheap-as-possible #3 Flat-tip screwdriver (use for steering head nut, you bang it with a mallet)
----------------------------------------------------------
+:[[image:shock spanner.jpg|150px]]
+:[[image:adjustable shock spanner.gif|150px]]
+The alternative, and definitely not the right tool for the job, is to get a punch with a 90' nose or a cheap-as-possible #3 flat-tip screwdriver and carefully hammer the nut until it's loose. It's much harder to get the adjustment right at the end with this method, and it also provides more opportunities to slip and damage something (like your hand).
 Once the nut is removed, remove the dust cover, the upper bearing race, and all the ball bearings. Keep it all, in case it can be reused. Watch for balls rolling around your workspace. Slide the triple tree down and remove the lower race and balls. Inspect these and set them aside for now if you decide to replace them.