Steering head bearing replacement: Difference between revisions

Line 108:

==Installing the new bearings==

===Bearings in the steering head===

Take the larger bearing race (#99-3503) and install it on the lower part of the frame's steering head.

'''<<<Can you use the old 'correct-sized socket' method for this? Lots of people don't have access to different sizes of pipe.>>>''' Like this guy, halfway down:

'''<<<Can you use the old 'correct-sized socket' method for this? Lots of people don't have access to different sizes of pipe, and PVC only comes in certain standard sizes, as I remember.>>>''' Like this guy, halfway down:

http://www.wenga.net/ellingly/posties/frame_and_controls.html

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/ \ bearing

===Lower bearing===

====Hammer method====

Installing the larger (#99-3503) bearing onto the lower triple tree can be fairly difficult. If you have a hydraulic press and some PVC tubing, use that. If not, use a hammer and something hard to hold the clamps against. Place the bottom of the triple clamps so they are completely flat. Any angle in them and you'll bend them - which means you will need a new triple.

~~Installing~~ the larger (#99-~~3503~~) ~~bearing onto the lower triple tree can be fairly difficult. If you have a hydraulic press and some PVC tubing, use that. If not~~, ~~use a hammer and something hard to hold~~ the ~~clamps against~~. ~~Place~~ the ~~bottom of~~ the ~~triple clamps so they are completely flat. Any angle in them and~~ you~~'ll bend them - which means you will need a new triple tree~~.

First, slide the larger seal (#33-1006) down, with the metal side facing downwards. Now slide the bearing down the tube as far as you can, with the taper going up (looks like this / \ ).

'''<<<~~This is pushing down~~ on the ~~tapered end of the bearings (the~~ '~~cone~~'~~), not~~ on the wider part on the ~~bottom~~, ~~and not on the bearings themselves. Yes~~?~~>>>'''~~

'''<<<Pipe goes on the old race, and hit that?>>>''' ie... You don't put the pipe down on the bottom (wider) part of the bearing? The race will touch the tapered part, like this?

Shown below is the lower triple with the steering tube attached. This is the fancy way of doing it, with a piece of black PVC over the tube so the press is pushing only on the bearing via the PVC pipe.

[[image:]]

~~[[image:IMG_5701~~-2.~~jpg|200px]]~~

Put on the old race, turned upside down to give the tubing more lip to bite onto. Take a suitable-diameter piece of PVC tubing and blah, blah, blah.............

~~'''<<< I also think we need an alternative to the press method. What do you use, and where do you hit?>>>'''~~

----------------------------------------------------------------------

~~------------------------------------------------------------------------~~

====Hydraulic press method====

Shown below is the lower triple with the steering tube attached. This is the fancy way of doing it, with a piece of black PVC over the tube so the press is pushing only on the bearing via the PVC pipe.

~~First, slide the larger seal (#33-1006) down~~, ~~with the metal side facing downwards~~. ~~Now slide the bearing down the tube, with~~ the ~~taper going up (looks like this / \ )~~.

Be careful when you apply pressure. Do so slowly, and be ready for loud "pop" sounds as it goes on. Release the pressure once or twice to visually inspect for crookedness and make sure it's seating properly.

Give it a solid push down with your hands so it doesn't move around in the next steps. Take a suitably close diameter piece of PVC tubing and the old bottom race flipped upside down to give the tubing more lip to bite onto. Be careful when you apply pressure. Do so slowly, and be ready for loud "pop" sounds as it goes on. Release the pressure once or twice to visually inspect for crookedness and make sure it's seating properly.

[[image:IMG_5701-2.jpg|200px]]

Lube everything up liberally, making sure you work the grease into the bearings well. Spin them several times and then re-apply to ensure it's getting deep into them. Put an extra bead just above the bottom bearing, as it will get forced down into the bearing when you install the forks and the bearings seat the grease in properly. Do the same for the races.

Slide the triple tree up into the frame. Now you'll be installing the upper bearing. Take the upper bearing (#99-3504) that you already worked grease into and slide it, small outer diameter side down, onto the tree (looks this \ / ). You will note this seems to stick up a bit - it does - and your bars will be a bit higher than before. Take the smaller seal (#33-1005-1) and place it, metal side up, onto the bearing. It should almost 'click' on, and on top of this you will place the dust cover and then the stem nut.

~~Tighten~~ the ~~stem nut~~ up ~~VERY tight, as hard as~~ you ~~think you can~~ and ~~still get~~ it ~~off~~. You ~~are trying~~ to ~~seat~~ the ~~bearings~~, and you ~~want maximum compression on all~~ the ~~bearings. Loosen it off until you can turn~~ the ~~triple tree freely~~.

'''<<<Shouldn't it say 'frame' or 'tube' instead of 'tree'?>>>'''

Slide the triple tree up into the frame. Take the upper bearing (#99-3504) that you already worked grease into and slide it, small end down, onto the '''<<<tree>>>''' (looks this \ / ). You will note this seems to stick up a bit - it does - and your bars will be a bit higher than before. Take the smaller seal (#33-1005-1) and place it, metal side up, onto the bearing. It should almost 'click' on, and on top of this you will place the dust cover and then the stem nut.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

Adjust the tightness of the stem nut. You want it tightened to just before it binds. No looser and no tighter. You want your bars to turn freely lock to lock with just a push of your hand (while the front end is suspended). Tighten the nut until it gets a bit of resistance, then back off a tad. Then do that again to make sure.

~~It's important to recheck~~ the stem nut ~~torque after riding for a week or two~~, as it ~~may have 'settled'~~ and ~~become loose~~.

Tighten the stem nut up VERY tight, as hard as you think you can and still get it off. You are trying to seat the bearings, and you want maximum compression on all the bearings. Loosen it off until you can turn the triple tree freely.

~~Reassemble~~ the ~~forks, fender, wheel, brake caliper, handlebars, and controls. Leave all~~ of the ~~nuts loose except~~ the ~~fender~~, ~~as you can't reach those with~~ the ~~wheel on. [[I need~~ to ~~realign my forks and~~ front ~~wheel|Align~~ the ~~forks]]~~, ~~then tighten everything [[Torque Values|to spec]]~~.

Adjust the tightness of the stem nut. Tighten the nut until it gets a bit of resistance, then back off a tad. You want it tight enough so the bars to turn freely lock-to-lock with just a push of your hand (front end is still in the air). No tighter, no looser.

Tighten ~~all~~ the ~~bolts~~, then ~~check them all again~~. Snug the top stem bolt. Reassemble the horn, fairings, and gas tank. Put the bike on its centerstand. Turn the bars left and right, feeling for any notches or excess of friction. If there is too much, readjust the tightness of the stem nut.

Reassemble the front end, putting everything back on that you took off. Tighten up the fender, but leave the other nuts loose. [[I need to realign my forks and front wheel|Align the forks]], then tighten everything [[Torque Values|to spec]]. Snug the top stem bolt. Reassemble the horn, fairings, and gas tank. Put the bike on its centerstand. Turn the bars left and right, feeling for any notches or excess of friction. If there is too much, readjust the tightness of the stem nut.

Go for a very quick test ride, then ~~come back to tighten~~ everything again. Recheck the stem nut torque after riding for a week or two, to make sure it hasn't settled and become loose.

Go for a very quick test ride, then check the torque on everything again. Recheck the stem nut torque after riding for a week or two, to make sure it hasn't settled and become loose.

@@ Line 108: / Line 108: @@
 ==Installing the new bearings==
+===Bearings in the steering head===
 Take the larger bearing race (#99-3503) and install it on the lower part of the frame's steering head.
-'''<<<Can you use the old 'correct-sized socket' method for this? Lots of people don't have access to different sizes of pipe.>>>''' Like this guy, halfway down:
+'''<<<Can you use the old 'correct-sized socket' method for this? Lots of people don't have access to different sizes of pipe, and PVC only comes in certain standard sizes, as I remember.>>>''' Like this guy, halfway down:
 http://www.wenga.net/ellingly/posties/frame_and_controls.html
@@ Line 153: / Line 155: @@
 /  \   bearing
+===Lower bearing===
+====Hammer method====
+Installing the larger (#99-3503) bearing onto the lower triple tree can be fairly difficult. If you have a hydraulic press and some PVC tubing, use that. If not, use a hammer and something hard to hold the clamps against. Place the bottom of the triple clamps so they are completely flat. Any angle in them and you'll bend them - which means you will need a new triple.
-Installing the larger (#99-3503) bearing onto the lower triple tree can be fairly difficult. If you have a hydraulic press and some PVC tubing, use that. If not, use a hammer and something hard to hold the clamps against. Place the bottom of the triple clamps so they are completely flat. Any angle in them and you'll bend them - which means you will need a new triple tree.
+First, slide the larger seal (#33-1006) down, with the metal side facing downwards. Now slide the bearing down the tube as far as you can, with the taper going up (looks like this / \ ).
-'''<<<This is pushing down on the tapered end of the bearings (the 'cone'), not on the wider part on the bottom, and not on the bearings themselves. Yes?>>>'''
+'''<<<Pipe goes on the old race, and hit that?>>>''' ie... You don't put the pipe down on the bottom (wider) part of the bearing? The race will touch the tapered part, like this?
-Shown below is the lower triple with the steering tube attached. This is the fancy way of doing it, with a piece of black PVC over the tube so the press is pushing only on the bearing via the PVC pipe.
+[[image:]]
-[[image:IMG_5701-2.jpg|200px]]
+Put on the old race, turned upside down to give the tubing more lip to bite onto. Take a suitable-diameter piece of PVC tubing and blah, blah, blah.............
-'''<<< I also think we need an alternative to the press method. What do you use, and where do you hit?>>>'''
+----------------------------------------------------------------------
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
+====Hydraulic press method====
+Shown below is the lower triple with the steering tube attached. This is the fancy way of doing it, with a piece of black PVC over the tube so the press is pushing only on the bearing via the PVC pipe.
-First, slide the larger seal (#33-1006) down, with the metal side facing downwards. Now slide the bearing down the tube, with the taper going up (looks like this / \ ).
+Be careful when you apply pressure. Do so slowly, and be ready for loud "pop" sounds as it goes on. Release the pressure once or twice to visually inspect for crookedness and make sure it's seating properly.
-Give it a solid push down with your hands so it doesn't move around in the next steps. Take a suitably close diameter piece of PVC tubing and the old bottom race flipped upside down to give the tubing more lip to bite onto. Be careful when you apply pressure. Do so slowly, and be ready for loud "pop" sounds as it goes on. Release the pressure once or twice to visually inspect for crookedness and make sure it's seating properly.
+[[image:IMG_5701-2.jpg|200px]]
 Lube everything up liberally, making sure you work the grease into the bearings well. Spin them several times and then re-apply to ensure it's getting deep into them. Put an extra bead just above the bottom bearing, as it will get forced down into the bearing when you install the forks and the bearings seat the grease in properly. Do the same for the races.
-Slide the triple tree up into the frame. Now you'll be installing the upper bearing. Take the upper bearing (#99-3504) that you already worked grease into and slide it, small outer diameter side down, onto the tree (looks this \ / ). You will note this seems to stick up a bit - it does - and your bars will be a bit higher than before. Take the smaller seal (#33-1005-1) and place it, metal side up, onto the bearing. It should almost 'click' on, and on top of this you will place the dust cover and then the stem nut.
-Tighten the stem nut up VERY tight, as hard as you think you can and still get it off. You are trying to seat the bearings, and you want maximum compression on all the bearings. Loosen it off until you can turn the triple tree freely.
+'''<<<Shouldn't it say 'frame' or 'tube' instead of 'tree'?>>>'''
+Slide the triple tree up into the frame. Take the upper bearing (#99-3504) that you already worked grease into and slide it, small end down, onto the '''<<<tree>>>''' (looks this \ / ). You will note this seems to stick up a bit - it does - and your bars will be a bit higher than before. Take the smaller seal (#33-1005-1) and place it, metal side up, onto the bearing. It should almost 'click' on, and on top of this you will place the dust cover and then the stem nut.
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------
-Adjust the tightness of the stem nut. You want it tightened to just before it binds. No looser and no tighter. You want your bars to turn freely lock to lock with just a push of your hand (while the front end is suspended). Tighten the nut until it gets a bit of resistance, then back off a tad. Then do that again to make sure.
-It's important to recheck the stem nut torque after riding for a week or two, as it may have 'settled' and become loose.
+Tighten the stem nut up VERY tight, as hard as you think you can and still get it off. You are trying to seat the bearings, and you want maximum compression on all the bearings. Loosen it off until you can turn the triple tree freely.
-Reassemble the forks, fender, wheel, brake caliper, handlebars, and controls. Leave all of the nuts loose except the fender, as you can't reach those with the wheel on. [[I need to realign my forks and front wheel|Align the forks]], then tighten everything [[Torque Values|to spec]].
+Adjust the tightness of the stem nut. Tighten the nut until it gets a bit of resistance, then back off a tad. You want it tight enough so the bars to turn freely lock-to-lock with just a push of your hand (front end is still in the air). No tighter, no looser.
-Tighten all the bolts, then check them all again. Snug the top stem bolt. Reassemble the horn, fairings, and gas tank. Put the bike on its centerstand. Turn the bars left and right, feeling for any notches or excess of friction. If there is too much, readjust the tightness of the stem nut.
+Reassemble the front end, putting everything back on that you took off. Tighten up the fender, but leave the other nuts loose. [[I need to realign my forks and front wheel|Align the forks]], then tighten everything [[Torque Values|to spec]]. Snug the top stem bolt. Reassemble the horn, fairings, and gas tank. Put the bike on its centerstand. Turn the bars left and right, feeling for any notches or excess of friction. If there is too much, readjust the tightness of the stem nut.
-Go for a very quick test ride, then come back to tighten everything again. Recheck the stem nut torque after riding for a week or two, to make sure it hasn't settled and become loose.
+Go for a very quick test ride, then check the torque on everything again. Recheck the stem nut torque after riding for a week or two, to make sure it hasn't settled and become loose.