Cam chain tensioner removal: Difference between revisions
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The usual noise for a tensioner getting worn is a loud (usually consistent) ticking on the upper right side of the motor, similar to noisy (loose) valves. If you have these symptoms, and you know the valves to be correct, you should replace the cam chain tensioner. A new one is about $35. Part number for the whole assembly is 12048-1106. | The usual noise for a tensioner getting worn is a loud (usually consistent) ticking on the upper right side of the motor, similar to noisy (loose) valves. If you have these symptoms, and you know the valves to be correct, you should replace the cam chain tensioner. A new one is about $35. Part number for the whole assembly is 12048-1106. | ||
==General recommendations== | |||
The Kawasaki Service Manual doesn't call for any maintenance or lubrication of the cam chain tensioner. It lives in the engine interior and is exposed to oil splashes and vapors, so it receives some lubricant on its own. | |||
Leave it alone unless it becomes an issue, or you perform work that requires its removal. If you remove it, you must reset it for installation (see below). While the tensioner is out, don't allow the engine to turn. You may want to disconnect the battery, just in case. | |||
If you do remove it, inspect the tension rod for damage. If there are signs of scoring, it can be sanded smooth. However, if the rod or bearing are not in good shape, your best bet is to replace the entire assembly. It's only $35. | |||
* The service manual does not mention a need for oil or grease upon reassembly. This has been a subject of discussion on the forum. Members have done both, and both have worked. Since the bearings only move in one direction and don't turn like normal ones, some experienced people have said that not lubing them will help hold the tension rod in place better. | |||
==Tensioner removal== | ==Tensioner removal== | ||