Servicing the swingarm: Difference between revisions

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[[Category:Suspension]]

This is an important, but often neglected, part of your bike's maintenance. One reason that this operation is so important is that Kawasaki is sometimes stingy with the grease in this area (~~one~~ member said the factory lube felt like a light coating of machine oil). If you let it go too long, the lack of lubrication could lead to dried-out and/or rusty swingarm bearings. Poor swingarm lubrication can lead to corroded parts, excess or inconsistent rear suspension damping, limited suspension travel, and a creaking sound which is particularly pronounced mounting and dismounting the motorcycle. The service schedule specifies lubrication of the swingarm pivot every 6000 miles.

This is an important, but often neglected, part of your bike's maintenance. One reason that this operation is so important is that Kawasaki is sometimes stingy with the grease in this area. (One member said the factory lube felt like a light coating of machine oil.) If you let it go too long, the lack of lubrication could lead to dried-out and/or rusty swingarm bearings. Poor swingarm lubrication can lead to corroded parts, excess or inconsistent rear suspension damping, limited suspension travel, and a creaking sound which is particularly pronounced mounting and dismounting the motorcycle. The service schedule specifies lubrication of the swingarm pivot every 6000 miles.

'''Please note''': The service schedule calls for the [[Uni Trak Shock Linkage Lubrication|suspension linkage inspection/lubrication]] to be done at the same time as the swingarm service.

====Tools/supplies ~~needed==~~==

==Tools and supplies==

*22mm, 19mm, 17mm, 14mm, 12mm sockets and appropriate ratchet handle and/or wrenches. In particular, a 19mm open-ended wrench (suspension linkage 'holder wrench') and a 17mm open-ended wrench (brake torque link arm). A 12" extension and a 30" breaker bar or piece of iron pipe will make this job a lot easier.

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*Plenty of clean, lint-free rags

*[[Torque Values|Torque Values list]]

*Molybdenum disulfide ("Moly") grease - any high-pressure bearing grease will do. However, a waterproof [http://searchwarp.com/swa3953.htm lithium grease] containing [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molybdenum_disulfide molybdenum disulphide] is the best choice). The factory explicitly calls for molybdenum disulphide, as it is an extremely effective additive for needle bearings in oscillating applications~~, and~~ reduces wear by plating the bearing needles.

*Molybdenum disulfide ("Moly") grease - any high-pressure bearing grease will do. However, a waterproof [http://searchwarp.com/swa3953.htm lithium grease] containing [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molybdenum_disulfide molybdenum disulphide] is the best choice). The factory explicitly calls for molybdenum disulphide, as it is an extremely effective additive for needle bearings in oscillating applications. It reduces wear by plating the bearing needles.

:This grease should be an excellent choice; it is a lithium soap and it contains molybdenum disulphide:

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*O-rings. Kawasaki part #92055-1215 (size 19.8 X 2.2) The Unitrak linkage uses a LOT of O-rings around the bushings, and it isn't that unusual to find some damaged ones on a high-miles bike. It is imperative these O-rings are in good shape. You normally don't need any, but there's a bunch, and stalling the job for 3-4 days because you're missing a $2 part would be bad.

Make sure you use cheap labor as much as possible. Why should you get your hands any dirtier? They may even appreciate the bonding experience... in 15 or 20 years.

==Get started==

Make sure you use cheap labor as much as possible. Why should you get your hands any dirtier? They may even appreciate the bonding experience... in 15 or 20 years. If cheap labour is unavailable, blue nitrile gloves make an excellent alternative.

[[Image:mywrencher.jpg|150px]]

~~Note: If cheap labour~~ is ~~unavailable~~, ~~blue nitrile gloves make an excellent alternative~~.

1) Remove the muffler(s) using a 12mm (header pipe) and 14mm socket (footpeg bracket). You may need to "rotate" the muffler to get it off the header. While it is off, you can clean the chain lube off the header and muffler.

1) Remove mufflers using a 12mm (header pipe) and 14mm socket (footpeg bracket). You may need to "rotate" the muffler to get it off the header. While it is off, you can also clean the chain lube off the header and muffler. Note: The factory suggests you remove both mufflers. It is only necessary to remove the left one.

'''Note:''' The factory suggests you remove both mufflers. It is only necessary to remove the left one.

[[Image:withoutmuffler.jpg|150px]] [[Image:withoutmuffler2.jpg|150px]]

2) Remove upper chain guard (warning: soft bolts) and [[Removing/replacing the rear wheel|rear wheel]]. Make sure to tie your brake caliper out of the way and ensure there is no pressure on the hydraulic brake line. One way to keep it out of the way is to slide a long extension (or piece of threaded rod) through it and hang it through the passenger peg brackets. Make sure your chain will not lie in dirt (big piece of cardboard works well here).

2) Remove the upper chain guard (warning: soft bolts) and [[Removing/replacing the rear wheel|rear wheel]]. Make sure to tie your brake caliper out of the way and ensure there is no pressure on the hydraulic brake line. One way to keep it out of the way is to slide a long extension (or piece of threaded rod) through it and hang it through the passenger peg brackets. Make sure your chain will not lie in the dirt. (A big piece of cardboard works well here.)

[[Image:brakeremoved.jpg|150px]]

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 [[Category:Suspension]]
-This is an important, but often neglected, part of your bike's maintenance. One reason that this operation is so important is that Kawasaki is sometimes stingy with the grease in this area (one member said the factory lube felt like a light coating of machine oil). If you let it go too long, the lack of lubrication could lead to dried-out and/or rusty swingarm bearings. Poor swingarm lubrication can lead to corroded parts, excess or inconsistent rear suspension damping, limited suspension travel, and a creaking sound which is particularly pronounced mounting and dismounting the motorcycle. The service schedule specifies lubrication of the swingarm pivot every 6000 miles.
+This is an important, but often neglected, part of your bike's maintenance. One reason that this operation is so important is that Kawasaki is sometimes stingy with the grease in this area. (One member said the factory lube felt like a light coating of machine oil.) If you let it go too long, the lack of lubrication could lead to dried-out and/or rusty swingarm bearings. Poor swingarm lubrication can lead to corroded parts, excess or inconsistent rear suspension damping, limited suspension travel, and a creaking sound which is particularly pronounced mounting and dismounting the motorcycle. The service schedule specifies lubrication of the swingarm pivot every 6000 miles.
 '''Please note''': The service schedule calls for the [[Uni Trak Shock Linkage Lubrication|suspension linkage inspection/lubrication]] to be done at the same time as the swingarm service.
-====Tools/supplies needed====
+==Tools and supplies==
 *22mm, 19mm, 17mm, 14mm, 12mm sockets and appropriate ratchet handle and/or wrenches. In particular, a 19mm open-ended wrench (suspension linkage 'holder wrench') and a 17mm open-ended wrench (brake torque link arm). A 12" extension and a 30" breaker bar or piece of iron pipe will make this job a lot easier.
@@ Line 10: / Line 10: @@
 *Plenty of clean, lint-free rags
 *[[Torque Values|Torque Values list]]
-*Molybdenum disulfide ("Moly") grease - any high-pressure bearing grease will do. However, a waterproof [http://searchwarp.com/swa3953.htm lithium grease] containing [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molybdenum_disulfide molybdenum disulphide] is the best choice). The factory explicitly calls for molybdenum disulphide, as it is an extremely effective additive for needle bearings in oscillating applications, and reduces wear by plating the bearing needles.
+*Molybdenum disulfide ("Moly") grease - any high-pressure bearing grease will do. However, a waterproof [http://searchwarp.com/swa3953.htm lithium grease] containing [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molybdenum_disulfide molybdenum disulphide] is the best choice). The factory explicitly calls for molybdenum disulphide, as it is an extremely effective additive for needle bearings in oscillating applications. It reduces wear by plating the bearing needles.
 :This grease should be an excellent choice; it is a lithium soap and it contains molybdenum disulphide:
@@ Line 18: / Line 18: @@
 *O-rings. Kawasaki part #92055-1215 (size 19.8 X 2.2) The Unitrak linkage uses a LOT of O-rings around the bushings, and it isn't that unusual to find some damaged ones on a high-miles bike. It is imperative these O-rings are in good shape. You normally don't need any, but there's a bunch, and stalling the job for 3-4 days because you're missing a $2 part would be bad.
-Make sure you use cheap labor as much as possible. Why should you get your hands any dirtier? They may even appreciate the bonding experience... in 15 or 20 years.
+==Get started==
+Make sure you use cheap labor as much as possible. Why should you get your hands any dirtier? They may even appreciate the bonding experience... in 15 or 20 years. If cheap labour is unavailable, blue nitrile gloves make an excellent alternative.
 [[Image:mywrencher.jpg|150px]]
-Note: If cheap labour is unavailable, blue nitrile gloves make an excellent alternative.
+) Remove the muffler(s) using a 12mm (header pipe) and 14mm socket (footpeg bracket). You may need to "rotate" the muffler to get it off the header. While it is off, you can clean the chain lube off the header and muffler.
-) Remove mufflers using a 12mm (header pipe) and 14mm socket (footpeg bracket). You may need to "rotate" the muffler to get it off the header. While it is off, you can also clean the chain lube off the header and muffler.  Note: The factory suggests you remove both mufflers. It is only necessary to remove the left one.
+'''Note:''' The factory suggests you remove both mufflers. It is only necessary to remove the left one.
 [[Image:withoutmuffler.jpg|150px]] [[Image:withoutmuffler2.jpg|150px]]
-) Remove upper chain guard (warning: soft bolts) and [[Removing/replacing the rear wheel|rear wheel]]. Make sure to tie your brake caliper out of the way and ensure there is no pressure on the hydraulic brake line. One way to keep it out of the way is to slide a long extension (or piece of threaded rod) through it and hang it through the passenger peg brackets. Make sure your chain will not lie in dirt (big piece of cardboard works well here).
+) Remove the upper chain guard (warning: soft bolts) and [[Removing/replacing the rear wheel|rear wheel]]. Make sure to tie your brake caliper out of the way and ensure there is no pressure on the hydraulic brake line. One way to keep it out of the way is to slide a long extension (or piece of threaded rod) through it and hang it through the passenger peg brackets. Make sure your chain will not lie in the dirt. (A big piece of cardboard works well here.)
 [[Image:brakeremoved.jpg|150px]]