A beginner's guide to maintenance tools: Difference between revisions

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There are two types of torque wrenches: the "clicker" and the "deflection beam". BrianM says that, for the new mechanic, it may make more sense to start out with a deflection beam type. They're cheaper, and they don't have to be re-calibrated. The major drawback to them is that you have to be able to look at the scale while you work, which can be a bit of a pain at times, and which is why professional mechanics use clicker-types. You use them just like a regular ratchet, but they click when the proper torque is achieved, which makes them easier and faster to use.

Deflection beam torque wrench on left; clicker type on right.

[[Image:deflection beam torque wrench.JPG|180px]] [[Image:clicker torque wrench.jpg|180px]]

Also, be aware while you're shopping that the first and last 10% of the range isn't accurate on a wrench, so buy one that fits the majority of your work. For instance, a 10-100 ft-lbs wrench has a range of 90, so it is only accurate from 18 or 19 to 91 or 92, by the time you take 10% off each end. And remember, a torque wrench is used to check the tension on nuts/bolts. Don't use it to loosen bolts with. That's what a ratchet or breaker bar is for.

'''Note:''' Always return your torqe wrench to zero when not in use. This will take the tension off the spring inside and keep it in calibration longer.

The next item of maintenance a rider is likely to encounter is adjusting the chain. This is one of those areas where a socket just won't work and you need a wrench. You'll still need a socket to loosen the rear axle, but the wrench will be used for adjusting the tension of the chain. You need to buy wrenches in the same sizes as the sockets mentioned above. Another cheap, but handy tool, is a 6" metal machinist's ruler ~ this will easily fit under the swingarm and give you accurate measurements for checking the slack ($3 anywhere). Similarly, a standard issue tape measure (the kind that you pull out of a body, usually goes to about 7 or 10') will come in handy for measuring the distance from the center of the axle to the center of the swingarm pivot on both sides, so you can ensure that the wheel is straight in the swingarm.

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 There are two types of torque wrenches: the "clicker" and the "deflection beam". BrianM says that, for the new mechanic, it may make more sense to start out with a deflection beam type. They're cheaper, and they don't have to be re-calibrated. The major drawback to them is that you have to be able to look at the scale while you work, which can be a bit of a pain at times, and which is why professional mechanics use clicker-types. You use them just like a regular ratchet, but they click when the proper torque is achieved, which makes them easier and faster to use.
+Deflection beam torque wrench on left; clicker type on right.
+[[Image:deflection beam torque wrench.JPG|180px]] [[Image:clicker torque wrench.jpg|180px]]
 Also, be aware while you're shopping that the first and last 10% of the range isn't accurate on a wrench, so buy one that fits the majority of your work. For instance, a 10-100 ft-lbs wrench has a range of 90, so it is only accurate from  18 or 19 to 91 or 92, by the time you take 10% off each end. And remember, a torque wrench is used to check the tension on nuts/bolts. Don't use it to loosen bolts with. That's what a ratchet or breaker bar is for.
+'''Note:''' Always return your torqe wrench to zero when not in use. This will take the tension off the spring inside and keep it in calibration longer.
 The next item of maintenance a rider is likely to encounter is adjusting the chain. This is one of those areas where a socket just won't work and you need a wrench. You'll still need a socket to loosen the rear axle, but the wrench will be used for adjusting the tension of the chain. You need to buy wrenches in the same sizes as the sockets mentioned above. Another cheap, but handy tool, is a 6" metal machinist's ruler ~ this will easily fit under the swingarm and give you accurate measurements for checking the slack ($3 anywhere). Similarly, a standard issue tape measure (the kind that you pull out of a body, usually goes to about 7 or 10') will come in handy for measuring the distance from the center of the axle to the center of the swingarm pivot on both sides, so you can ensure that the wheel is straight in the swingarm.