A beginner's guide to maintenance tools: Difference between revisions

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99924-1066-01 Service Manual EX250E 36.95<br>

99924-1109-62 Service Manual Supplement* EX250F 24.95

99924-1109-65 Service Manual Supplement* EX250F 31.95

Above are the 2 manuals needed and their associated part numbers. You can buy the manuals from anywhere that supplies Factory Kawasaki parts, such as [http://buykawasaki.com/Default.asp? buykawasaki.com], [http://www.ronayers.com/index.cfm Ron Ayers], and your local dealership. The noted prices are full retail. Since this is asked from time to time, there '''are no legal downloads''', it's not on CD and be wary of the copies on ebay ~ Kawasaki takes its copyright laws seriously.

Above are the 2 manuals needed and their associated part numbers. You can buy the manuals from anywhere that supplies Factory Kawasaki parts, such as [http://buykawasaki.com/Default.asp? buykawasaki.com], [http://www.ronayers.com/index.cfm Ron Ayers], [http://www.repairmanual.com/motorcycles/ Repair Manual.com], and your local dealership. The noted prices are full retail. Since this is asked from time to time, there '''are no legal downloads''', it's not on CD and be wary of the copies on ebay ~ Kawasaki takes its copyright laws seriously.

Now that you have the information available, it's a good idea to thoroughly read and research whatever task you're going to tackle. Know if you will need any consumable parts, like o-rings, crush washers or gaskets, and order those well before you plan on doing the work. Know the [[Torque Values]] of all the bolts you're going to be touching, and you might even want to photocopy the page(s) you'll be using so they're handy for quick reference without smudging up your books. There's Nothing worse than doing some simple service and having to put it all on hold while you look up the next step in the process or wait for a part to be delivered. If you've got all your information together and you're still hesitant, ask if there's anyone in the area that can help ~ there are members all over the place with different levels of mechanical skill... one may be near you and able to help.

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A 6-point socket is superior to a 12-point because it fits the bolt/nut better, providing more surface area and less chance of rounding off the head. For $100 you can buy all these pieces from a High-end maker, or about $70 from Sears/Home Depot/Lowe's (always buy from a company who offers a lifetime unconditional guarantee and is easy to access... this might be Home Depot and Lowe's for most people). You'll also need an oil drain pan ($10). A funnel and rubber gloves really help a lot, too.

The [http://www.microflex.com/products/catalog/dg.asp MicroFlex Diamond Grip] latex gloves work well. These have a unique texture on the fingers that actually grips after they get wet. They're inexpensive, and you can use one pair for a whole day of wrenching. And, for the areas the gloves don't cover, [http://automotive.gojo.com/products/product.asp?cat_id=13 Gojo hand cleaner], or something similar, is easy on your hands, but still gets them clean.

As soon as you buy sockets, and, really, before you do any work on your bike, you should buy a quality torque wrench. Some places will offer limited warranties, others offer free calibrations (they go off after awhile and need to be recalibrated) ~ you'll have to find one that meets your price range and works for you. This is a tool you'll be using non-stop (almost) so spend the money if you have it to spend.

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At some point, you're going to need to remove the fairing or something else that uses allen screws. There are a few options for Allen drivers: A set of individual keys, (usually with a ball on the long end), a set of T-handles, and a set of 3/8-drive sockets. You'll probably use the sockets the most, followed by the T's, and rarely pull out the individual keys. You'll want a set from 3mm to 10mm. The better the quality, the less likely they will round off (in this case, the tool rounds off while the screw is somewhat salvageable).

With all the success you've had doing maintenance, you might finally decide to take on a valve adjustment. Your tool kits are becoming fairly well stocked and you have most of the tools needed to do the job. The only 2 new additions at this point are the [[Is there a special tool to make this easier?|Factory ~~(or Motion Pro)~~ valve adjustment tool]] and feeler gauges. Long feeler gauges (5" or longer) of the 'go, no-go' design are easier to use in tight spaces like the ex250 head.

With all the success you've had doing maintenance, you might finally decide to take on a valve adjustment. Your tool kits are becoming fairly well stocked and you have most of the tools needed to do the job. The only 2 new additions at this point are the [[Is there a special tool to make this easier?|Factory valve adjustment tool]] and feeler gauges. Long feeler gauges (5" or longer) of the 'go, no-go' design are easier to use in tight spaces like the ex250 head.

Other tools you ought to pick up as time and money allow (these can all be cheaper, though it's always a good idea to buy something with a warranty) are:

@@ Line 9: / Line 9: @@
 -1066-01 Service Manual EX250E 36.95<br>
--1109-62 Service Manual Supplement* EX250F 24.95
+-1109-65 Service Manual Supplement* EX250F 31.95
-Above are the 2 manuals needed and their associated part numbers. You can buy the manuals from anywhere that supplies Factory Kawasaki parts, such as [http://buykawasaki.com/Default.asp? buykawasaki.com], [http://www.ronayers.com/index.cfm Ron Ayers], and your local dealership. The noted prices are full retail. Since this is asked from time to time, there '''are no legal downloads''', it's not on CD and be wary of the copies on ebay ~ Kawasaki takes its copyright laws seriously.
+Above are the 2 manuals needed and their associated part numbers. You can buy the manuals from anywhere that supplies Factory Kawasaki parts, such as [http://buykawasaki.com/Default.asp? buykawasaki.com], [http://www.ronayers.com/index.cfm Ron Ayers], [http://www.repairmanual.com/motorcycles/ Repair Manual.com], and your local dealership. The noted prices are full retail. Since this is asked from time to time, there '''are no legal downloads''', it's not on CD and be wary of the copies on ebay ~ Kawasaki takes its copyright laws seriously.
 Now that you have the information available, it's a good idea to thoroughly read and research whatever task you're going to tackle. Know if you will need any consumable parts, like o-rings, crush washers or gaskets, and order those well before you plan on doing the work. Know the [[Torque Values]] of all the bolts you're going to be touching, and you might even want to photocopy the page(s) you'll be using so they're handy for quick reference without smudging up your books. There's Nothing worse than doing some simple service and having to put it all on hold while you look up the next step in the process or wait for a part to be delivered. If you've got all your information together and you're still hesitant, ask if there's anyone in the area that can help ~ there are members all over the place with different levels of mechanical skill... one may be near you and able to help.
@@ Line 24: / Line 24: @@
 A 6-point socket is superior to a 12-point because it fits the bolt/nut better, providing more surface area and less chance of rounding off the head. For $100 you can buy all these pieces from a High-end maker, or about $70 from Sears/Home Depot/Lowe's (always buy from a company who offers a lifetime unconditional guarantee and is easy to access... this might be Home Depot and Lowe's for most people). You'll also need an oil drain pan ($10). A funnel and rubber gloves really help a lot, too.
+The [http://www.microflex.com/products/catalog/dg.asp MicroFlex Diamond Grip] latex gloves work well. These have a unique texture on the fingers that actually grips after they get wet. They're inexpensive, and you can use one pair for a whole day of wrenching. And, for the areas the gloves don't cover, [http://automotive.gojo.com/products/product.asp?cat_id=13 Gojo hand cleaner], or something similar, is easy on your hands, but still gets them clean.
 As soon as you buy sockets, and, really, before you do any work on your bike, you should buy a quality torque wrench. Some places will offer limited warranties, others offer free calibrations (they go off after awhile and need to be recalibrated) ~ you'll have to find one that meets your price range and works for you. This is a tool you'll be using non-stop (almost) so spend the money if you have it to spend.
@@ Line 47: / Line 49: @@
 At some point, you're going to need to remove the fairing or something else that uses allen screws. There are a few options for Allen drivers: A set of individual keys, (usually with a ball on the long end), a set of T-handles, and a set of 3/8-drive sockets. You'll probably use the sockets the most, followed by the T's, and rarely pull out the individual keys. You'll want a set from 3mm to 10mm. The better the quality, the less likely they will round off (in this case, the tool rounds off while the screw is somewhat salvageable).
-With all the success you've had doing maintenance, you might finally decide to take on a valve adjustment. Your tool kits are becoming fairly well stocked and you have most of the tools needed to do the job. The only 2 new additions at this point are the  [[Is there a special tool to make this easier?|Factory (or Motion Pro) valve adjustment tool]] and feeler gauges. Long feeler gauges (5" or longer) of the 'go, no-go' design are easier to use in tight spaces like the ex250 head.
+With all the success you've had doing maintenance, you might finally decide to take on a valve adjustment. Your tool kits are becoming fairly well stocked and you have most of the tools needed to do the job. The only 2 new additions at this point are the  [[Is there a special tool to make this easier?|Factory valve adjustment tool]] and feeler gauges. Long feeler gauges (5" or longer) of the 'go, no-go' design are easier to use in tight spaces like the ex250 head.
 Other tools you ought to pick up as time and money allow (these can all be cheaper, though it's always a good idea to buy something with a warranty) are: