Hints & Tips: Valve Adjustment: Difference between revisions
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*You are supposed to slip the feeler gauge between the actual camshaft lobe and the part of the rocker that the cam lobe pushes on. | *You are supposed to slip the feeler gauge between the actual camshaft lobe and the part of the rocker that the cam lobe pushes on. | ||
[[Image:feeler_gauge_goes_here.jpg| | :[[Image:feeler_gauge_goes_here.jpg|190px]] | ||
*The exhaust valves can be done without the Kawasaki tool, though it's very hard without moving the radiator. You don't need to drain the radiator, just move it. With the radiator out of the way and a 1/4" drive deep socket and an eyeglass-type screwdriver, they're quite easy. | *The exhaust valves can be done without the Kawasaki tool, though it's very hard without moving the radiator. You don't need to drain the radiator, just move it. With the radiator out of the way and a 1/4" drive deep socket and an eyeglass-type screwdriver, they're quite easy. | ||
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*Finding the correct amount of gap with a feeler gauge is easier if you use a "go-no go", or "stepped" gauge. The old school technique was to feel a little drag on the feeler guage... it was described as about what you'd feel when pulling a sheet of paper out from under a magazine or two. Slight drag. New way of thought is that ANY adjustment, within spec, is good enough (and it is for street riders). So you just make sure the gauge for the middle spec goes in fine, but the next thicker one doesn't go at all. The stepped feeler gauges have the smaller clearance on the first inch of the blade, and the next higher clearance on the upper part. This makes it easy to see where you are with just one gauge instead of flipping back and forth between two different ones. Like this: | *Finding the correct amount of gap with a feeler gauge is easier if you use a "go-no go", or "stepped" gauge. The old school technique was to feel a little drag on the feeler guage... it was described as about what you'd feel when pulling a sheet of paper out from under a magazine or two. Slight drag. New way of thought is that ANY adjustment, within spec, is good enough (and it is for street riders). So you just make sure the gauge for the middle spec goes in fine, but the next thicker one doesn't go at all. The stepped feeler gauges have the smaller clearance on the first inch of the blade, and the next higher clearance on the upper part. This makes it easy to see where you are with just one gauge instead of flipping back and forth between two different ones. Like this: | ||
:[[Image:stepped gauge. | :[[Image:stepped gauge.jpg|250px]] | ||
*Leave the feeler gauge between the valve and rocker when tightening the locknut to prevent the gap from changing. | *Leave the feeler gauge between the valve and rocker when tightening the locknut to prevent the gap from changing. | ||