Hints & Tips: Valve Adjustment: Difference between revisions
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*The exhaust valves can be done without the Kawasaki tool, though it's very hard without moving the radiator. You don't need to drain the radiator, just move it. With the radiator out of the way and a 1/4" drive deep socket and an eyeglass-type screwdriver, they're quite easy. | *The exhaust valves can be done without the Kawasaki tool, though it's very hard without moving the radiator. You don't need to drain the radiator, just move it. With the radiator out of the way and a 1/4" drive deep socket and an eyeglass-type screwdriver, they're quite easy. | ||
*Make sure you know which ones are the exhaust and intake valves and the specs for each (hint; the exhaust valves are the ones closest to the exhaust | *Make sure you know which ones are the exhaust and intake valves and the specs for each (hint; the exhaust valves are the ones closest to the exhaust header; the intake valves are closest to the airbox). | ||
*Moving the radiator: Remove the mounting bolts and unfasten the filler neck so it can be pushed forward (no need to remove hoses), and remove the fan. Very easy to do, and it gives a lot more space. | *Moving the radiator: Remove the mounting bolts and unfasten the filler neck so it can be pushed forward (no need to remove hoses), and remove the fan. Very easy to do, and it gives a lot more space. | ||
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*You don't need the special tools, but you DO need longer feeler gauges (about 5~6" long). | *You don't need the special tools, but you DO need longer feeler gauges (about 5~6" long). | ||
*You have to unbolt and remove the | *You have to unbolt and remove the left-hand coil, but it isn't necessary to drill the spot weld to remove the brackets. The cover is no harder to get out with the brackets left in place than with the brackets removed. Removing the bracket will make a tiny bit more room for your hands to get in and the valve cover to come out. | ||
*As far as how much force to use on the feeler gauges, not that much. Just set it so the right gauge slides in and the next size up does not. | *As far as how much force to use on the feeler gauges, not that much. Just set it so the right gauge slides in and the next size up does not. | ||
*Don't drop your feeler gauge into the engine. You have two choices: Make a leash for it and tie it to your (wrist/belt/earring), or have a long magnetic pickup standing by. | *Don't drop your feeler gauge into the engine. You have two choices: Make a leash for it and tie it to your (wrist/belt/earring), or have a long magnetic pickup standing by. Or, alternatively, just don't take the gauge out of your set! | ||
*Finding the correct amount of gap with a feeler gauge is easier if you use a "go-no go", or "stepped" gauge. The old school technique was to feel a little drag on the feeler guage... it was described as about what you'd feel when pulling a sheet of paper out from under a magazine or two. Slight drag. New way of thought is that ANY adjustment, within spec, is good enough (and it is for street riders). So you just make sure the gauge for the middle spec goes in fine, but the next thicker one doesn't go at all. The stepped feeler gauges have the smaller clearance on the first inch of the blade, and the next higher clearance on the upper part. This makes it easy to see where you are with just one gauge instead of flipping back and forth between two different ones. Like this: | *Finding the correct amount of gap with a feeler gauge is easier if you use a "go-no go", or "stepped" gauge. The old school technique was to feel a little drag on the feeler guage... it was described as about what you'd feel when pulling a sheet of paper out from under a magazine or two. Slight drag. New way of thought is that ANY adjustment, within spec, is good enough (and it is for street riders). So you just make sure the gauge for the middle spec goes in fine, but the next thicker one doesn't go at all. The stepped feeler gauges have the smaller clearance on the first inch of the blade, and the next higher clearance on the upper part. This makes it easy to see where you are with just one gauge instead of flipping back and forth between two different ones. Like this: | ||
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:[[Image:stepped gauge.jpg|250px]] | :[[Image:stepped gauge.jpg|250px]] | ||
:'''Note:''' This photo is for demonstration purposes only. This is | :'''Note:''' This photo is for demonstration purposes only. This gauge is not meant for use with this motorcycle. | ||
*Leave the feeler gauge between the valve and rocker when tightening the locknut to prevent the gap from changing. | *Leave the feeler gauge between the valve and rocker when tightening the locknut to prevent the gap from changing. | ||