Hints & Tips: Valve Adjustment: Difference between revisions
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*Leave the feeler gauge between the valve and rocker when tightening the locknut to prevent the gap from changing. | *Leave the feeler gauge between the valve and rocker when tightening the locknut to prevent the gap from changing. | ||
*Get a 9mm, 6pt, deep well socket. Use it to make the actual adjustment, without a ratchet, but with a screwdriver through the middle. That way you can turn the nut and use the screwdriver to hold the screw. At the beginning and end, when you're just breaking the nut loose or torquing it back down to spec, you can use your socket with a 1/4" ratchet. You might twist the screw a little, but at the beginning it doesn't matter at all, and at the end you should have enough leeway that the gap is still in spec. Double check afterwards though, just to make sure. | |||
*After you've taken out the radiator bolts and the coil bolts, it's even better to also "back out" the large long bolt that goes thru the front of the engine. Its the one that goes thru the two brackets (one on each side) that the radiator bolts to. If you back out that long bolt (it's the last one really holding the bracket) then you can move the bracket and the right side of the radiator further from the head and get more room to work. | *After you've taken out the radiator bolts and the coil bolts, it's even better to also "back out" the large long bolt that goes thru the front of the engine. Its the one that goes thru the two brackets (one on each side) that the radiator bolts to. If you back out that long bolt (it's the last one really holding the bracket) then you can move the bracket and the right side of the radiator further from the head and get more room to work. | ||