Replacing the wheel bearings: Difference between revisions

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Wheel bearings are simple. You'll want two small sections of 2x4, or a milk crate (same stuff you'd use for [[A mounting & balancing pictorial|changing tires]]) to hold the rotor off the ground. For removal, the [http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/3-4_and_1_radial_ball_bearing_remover_set Motion Pro Bearing Remover Set], or something similar is the correct tool for the job. The short piece fits in the axle opening. The long piece has a wedge that fits in the slot of the short piece, which allows the whole thing to 'grab' the inner race. Then, as you beat on it with a hammer, it should work the whole bearing out evenly (it doesn't always, but it works better than anything else.)

If you don't want to spend the money on the tool set, you can get by with a drift (aka a punch), or a long 3/8 drive extension. Since you're not trying to save the old ones, ~~you can~~ feel free to bash away at the inner race. The tube that runs through the wheel doesn't usually completely cover the inner race, so you can kind of get a purchase on it, beating the bearing out from the opposite side of the wheel. The down side is that you have to move around the race to get the bearing out evenly, and you're going to have to be careful, because the drift will probably slip off and bust your knuckles a few times.

If you don't want to spend the money on the tool set, and many people don't, you can get by with a drift (aka a punch), or a long 3/8 drive extension. Since you're not trying to save the old ones, feel free to bash away at the inner race. The tube that runs through the wheel doesn't usually completely cover the inner race, so you can kind of get a purchase on it, beating the bearing out from the opposite side of the wheel. The down side is that you have to move around the race to get the bearing out evenly, and you're going to have to be careful, because the drift will probably slip off and bust your knuckles a few times (think "leather gloves").

For putting the new bearings in, all you need to do is hammer them in. '''Important:''' ''You only want to put pressure on the outer race (the outside rim of the bearing)''. You can do this with a [http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92387 bearing seating kit], or a socket that you carefully hold in place so you don't hit the bearings. You can also place the old bearing on top of the new one and pound it in.

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 Wheel bearings are simple. You'll want two small sections of 2x4, or a milk crate (same stuff you'd use for [[A mounting & balancing pictorial|changing tires]]) to hold the rotor off the ground. For removal, the [http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/3-4_and_1_radial_ball_bearing_remover_set  Motion Pro Bearing Remover Set], or something similar is the correct tool for the job. The short piece fits in the axle opening. The long piece has a wedge that fits in the slot of the short piece, which allows the whole thing to 'grab' the inner race. Then, as you beat on it with a hammer, it should work the whole bearing out evenly (it doesn't always, but it works better than anything else.)
-If you don't want to spend the money on the tool set, you can get by with a drift (aka a punch), or a long 3/8 drive extension. Since you're not trying to save the old ones, you can feel free to bash away at the inner race. The tube that runs through the wheel doesn't usually completely cover the inner race, so you can kind of get a purchase on it, beating the bearing out from the opposite side of the wheel. The down side is that you have to move around the race to get the bearing out evenly, and you're going to have to be careful, because the drift will probably slip off and bust your knuckles a few times.
+If you don't want to spend the money on the tool set, and many people don't, you can get by with a drift (aka a punch), or a long 3/8 drive extension. Since you're not trying to save the old ones, feel free to bash away at the inner race. The tube that runs through the wheel doesn't usually completely cover the inner race, so you can kind of get a purchase on it, beating the bearing out from the opposite side of the wheel. The down side is that you have to move around the race to get the bearing out evenly, and you're going to have to be careful, because the drift will probably slip off and bust your knuckles a few times (think "leather gloves").
 For putting the new bearings in, all you need to do is hammer them in. '''Important:''' ''You only want to put pressure on the outer race (the outside rim of the bearing)''. You can do this with a [http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92387 bearing seating kit], or a socket that you carefully hold in place so you don't hit the bearings. You can also place the old bearing on top of the new one and pound it in.