How to tell if your battery is dead: Difference between revisions
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[[Category:Electrical & Lighting]] | [[Category:Electrical & Lighting]] | ||
The following is important information for the DIY rider. Quite often a seemingly impenetrable electrical problem can be traced to a battery that is no longer serviceable. This should be the first thing you look at. | The following is important information for the DIY rider. Quite often a seemingly impenetrable electrical problem can be traced to a battery that is no longer serviceable. This should be the first thing you look at. | ||
Here are the classic symptoms of battery failure: | |||
*Gauges on (neutral, oil and temp) but the starter won't catch | |||
*Tach starts bouncing, and then the engine starts to act like it's out of gas. | |||
*Engine keeps coughing, but tach is much higher than it should be, or it is bouncing wildly from low to high. | |||
*Bike surges with turn signal on. | |||
Sometimes a battery just dies. Not necessarily from neglect, age, or use. It just dies. This normally comes from sulfates building up along the bottom and shorting out a couple of the lead plates. It's difficult for many people to trouble-shoot because they'll just toss a voltmeter on the battery, see that it shows 12v DC and right away say it's fine. The truth is, if the resting voltage (after sitting, not on a charger) is below 12.2, that battery needs to be replaced. Below 12v and it's dead, for all practical purposes. | Sometimes a battery just dies. Not necessarily from neglect, age, or use. It just dies. This normally comes from sulfates building up along the bottom and shorting out a couple of the lead plates. It's difficult for many people to trouble-shoot because they'll just toss a voltmeter on the battery, see that it shows 12v DC and right away say it's fine. The truth is, if the resting voltage (after sitting, not on a charger) is below 12.2, that battery needs to be replaced. Below 12v and it's dead, for all practical purposes. | ||