I want a louder horn: Difference between revisions

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It's a direct replacement. No relay is necessary (but see below). It includes a bracket for mounting. You can either remove the nut holding the horn to the bracket and retain the stock bracket, or remove the one bolt holding the bracket to the bike and use the new bracket instead. Just try and see; the brackets are very similar. Installation time is estimated at "120 seconds".

~~A couple things to remember:~~ The horn on the EX250 is "always hot" (meaning it always has 12V supplied). The horn button grounds it~~. Also~~, ~~don't forget that~~ the EX250 frame is ~~also~~ grounded. So, if the horn body is connected to its terminals, you need to isolate the horn body. This is one reason why the stock horn is mounted on a rubber insulator.

====Notes on the horn====

*The horn on the EX250 is "always hot" (meaning it always has 12V supplied). The horn button actually grounds it, completing the circuit and making the horn sound.

*The EX250 frame is grounded. So, if the horn body is connected to its terminals, you need to isolate the horn body. This is one reason why the stock horn is mounted on a rubber insulator. With the stock wiring and horn, the rubber insulator is absolutely necessary. Otherwise, the frame would complete the circuit to the horn body, rather than the horn switch. Replacement horns will usually work without the rubber insulator, usually because their voice coils are isolated from their bodies another way.

*In the event of a fault in the wiring, the horn is most likely to fail ON, not OFF. This is most likely a safety feature.

The top picture shows the stock horn on a naked bike. The bottom picture shows the new horn installed on a bike with a fairing.

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 It's a direct replacement. No relay is necessary (but see below). It includes a bracket for mounting. You can either remove the nut holding the horn to the bracket and retain the stock bracket, or remove the one bolt holding the bracket to the bike and use the new bracket instead. Just try and see; the brackets are very similar. Installation time is estimated at "120 seconds".
-A couple things to remember: The horn on the EX250 is "always hot" (meaning it always has 12V supplied). The horn button grounds it. Also, don't forget that the EX250 frame is also grounded. So, if the horn body is connected to its terminals, you need to isolate the horn body. This is one reason why the stock horn is mounted on a rubber insulator.
+====Notes on the horn====
+*The horn on the EX250 is "always hot" (meaning it always has 12V supplied). The horn button actually grounds it, completing the circuit and making the horn sound.
+*The EX250 frame is grounded. So, if the horn body is connected to its terminals, you need to isolate the horn body. This is one reason why the stock horn is mounted on a rubber insulator. With the stock wiring and horn, the rubber insulator is absolutely necessary. Otherwise, the frame would complete the circuit to the horn body, rather than the horn switch. Replacement horns will usually work without the rubber insulator, usually because their voice coils are isolated from their bodies another way.
+*In the event of a fault in the wiring, the horn is most likely to fail ON, not OFF. This is most likely a safety feature.
 The top picture shows the stock horn on a naked bike. The bottom picture shows the new horn installed on a bike with a fairing.