Installing an accessory fuse box: Difference between revisions

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Next comes the fun part: cutting into the wiring harness at the OEM fuse block. If this makes you nervous, you might want to use [http://www.allpar.com/reviews/other/posi-tap.html Posi-Tap] connectors from [http://www.posi-lock.com/posiplug.html Posi-Lock]. [http://www.webbikeworld.com/r2/posi-tap/posi-tap.htm webBikeWorld review]

Consult the [[Wiring schematics & diagrams|schematic]] to determine which connection to tap into. Don't use the unused 'accessories' fuse because those two connections are always hot. This also goes for the OEM accessory wires. The horn was the circuit tapped into, since it has minimal draw when not in use. The schematic showed the wire needed to tap was the lower harness brown/white wire. Double-check this by testing voltage ~~outside the sheath~~, then pulling the fuse.

Consult the [[Wiring schematics & diagrams|schematic]] to determine which connection to tap into. Don't use the unused 'accessories' fuse because those two connections are always hot. This also goes for the OEM accessory wires. The horn was the circuit tapped into, since it has minimal draw when not in use. The schematic showed the wire needed to tap was the lower harness brown/white wire. Double-check this by [[Testing a wire|testing the voltage]], then pulling the fuse.

~~'''''define sheath; yeah, I know what you mean, but I can't explain it.'''''~~

'''''>>Ryan - The sheath is the plastic coating covering the wire strands and is also known as "insulator". This would be a perfect time to introduce Posi-taps for those that may be a bit squeamish when it comes to cutting into the factory harness. http://www.posi-lock.com/posiplug.html'''''

~~'''''Ok, obviously I've never used a multimeter. Is there a way to test voltage on a wire that isn't bare?'''''~~

'''''>>Ryan - How to find a trigger wire: Using a multimeter set to a 20V scale, take one of the probes and poke it into the wire in question. You don't want to go all the way through the wire, just break through the sheathing into the wire core. Take the other probe and touch it to a ground (negative battery terminal, frame, etc.). With the key off there should be zero volts measured. Now turn the key on; there should be ~12 volts (-12V is fine). This means that wire is only getting power when the bike is on and this is what we want for this project. If this isn't the case make sure the probes are where they should be and/or try another wire.'''''

[[image:buss-7.jpg|100px]]

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 Next comes the fun part: cutting into the wiring harness at the OEM fuse block. If this makes you nervous, you might want to use [http://www.allpar.com/reviews/other/posi-tap.html Posi-Tap] connectors from [http://www.posi-lock.com/posiplug.html Posi-Lock]. [http://www.webbikeworld.com/r2/posi-tap/posi-tap.htm webBikeWorld review]
-Consult the [[Wiring schematics & diagrams|schematic]] to determine which connection to tap into. Don't use the unused 'accessories' fuse because those two connections are always hot. This also goes for the OEM accessory wires. The horn was the circuit tapped into, since it has minimal draw when not in use. The schematic showed the wire needed to tap was the lower harness brown/white wire. Double-check this by testing voltage outside the sheath, then pulling the fuse.
+Consult the [[Wiring schematics & diagrams|schematic]] to determine which connection to tap into. Don't use the unused 'accessories' fuse because those two connections are always hot. This also goes for the OEM accessory wires. The horn was the circuit tapped into, since it has minimal draw when not in use. The schematic showed the wire needed to tap was the lower harness brown/white wire. Double-check this by [[Testing a wire|testing the voltage]], then pulling the fuse.
-'''''define sheath; yeah, I know what you mean, but I can't explain it.'''''
-'''''>>Ryan - The sheath is the plastic coating covering the wire strands and is also known as "insulator".  This would be a perfect time to introduce Posi-taps for those that may be a bit squeamish when it comes to cutting into the factory harness. http://www.posi-lock.com/posiplug.html'''''
-'''''Ok, obviously I've never used a multimeter. Is there a way to test voltage on a wire that isn't bare?'''''
-'''''>>Ryan - How to find a trigger wire: Using a multimeter set to a 20V scale, take one of the probes and poke it into the wire in question.  You don't want to go all the way through the wire, just break through the sheathing into the wire core. Take the other probe and touch it to a ground (negative battery terminal, frame, etc.).  With the key off there should be zero volts measured.  Now turn the key on; there should be ~12 volts (-12V is fine).  This means that wire is only getting power when the bike is on and this is what we want for this project.  If this isn't the case make sure the probes are where they should be and/or try another wire.'''''
 [[image:buss-7.jpg|100px]]