Accelerating, changing gears: Difference between revisions

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====Upshifting====

You can shift anywhere from 5 to 13k, depending on how fast you're going (accelerating). If you're poking along behind a grocery-getter from a stop light, a shift point of ~~5 or~~ 6k makes sense. If you're accelerating normally and want a good compromise between performance and fuel efficiency, shift around 8-10k. If you're trying to quiet the rowdy kids next to you in daddy's 318i, cook it up to 12k before hitting the next gear. Cruising revs should be between 4-10k.

You can shift anywhere from 6 to 13k, depending on how fast you're going (accelerating). If you're poking along behind a grocery-getter from a stop light, a shift point of 6k makes sense. If you're accelerating normally and want a good compromise between performance and fuel efficiency, shift around 8-10k. If you're trying to quiet the rowdy kids next to you in daddy's 318i, cook it up to 12k before hitting the next gear. Cruising revs should be between 6-10k.

Shown here are torque (L) and horsepower (R) charts from Motorcycle.com's<br> [http://www.motorcycle.com/shoot-outs/25-caliber-shootout-12930.htm .25 caliber shootout]. The EX250 is the pink line.

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When accelerating, you can pretty much downshift whenever you want a power boost. However, downshifting when doing anything over 11k rpm is pretty pointless, as you're already in your powerband. You want to try to downshift to keep revs between 9 and 12k; this is where you get the most tug for each twist of the wrist. You should let off the throttle momentarily while quickly disengaging the clutch and kicking it down, then opening the throttle up wide to match engine speed as you release the clutch lever again; this will give you the power you need to accelerate effectively.

====RPM guidelines====

The EX250 engine, along with those on most 'sporty' bikes, was designed for high-rpm use. There seem to be some compromises which make it harder to use at engine speeds lower than about 6000 rpm. Basically, there's no reason to ride any lower than 5000 rpm, except for while sitting at a light. Even then, you can't depend upon the engine for any power that far down.

The following suggestions are just that. Get used to what works for you, and keep in mind that your Ninja '''likes''' to work at high engine speeds. These are not guidelines for how to get the best gas mileage from your engine. However, they are guidelines to help you avoid stumbling at low rpm and keep the engine spinning fast enough to be of some use if you need to suddenly go faster.

* Mellow takeoff from a light: 3-4000 RPM

* Aggressive take-off from a light: 5-6000

* Only small throttle openings below 5000 (less than 1/3 throttle; better for your engine)

* Never cruise below 6000 rpm

* Never ride in-city at lower than 7000; this gives your more available power if you need to move

* In spirited riding (ie... twisties) never drop below 8000

* On the track, 9000 is about the lower limit, usually aiming for 9-11,000

====Clutchless shifting====

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 ====Upshifting====
-You can shift anywhere from 5 to 13k, depending on how fast you're going (accelerating). If you're poking along behind a grocery-getter from a stop light, a shift point of 5 or 6k makes sense. If you're accelerating normally and want a good compromise between performance and fuel efficiency, shift around 8-10k. If you're trying to quiet the rowdy kids next to you in daddy's 318i, cook it up to 12k before hitting the next gear. Cruising revs should be between 4-10k.
+You can shift anywhere from 6 to 13k, depending on how fast you're going (accelerating). If you're poking along behind a grocery-getter from a stop light, a shift point of 6k makes sense. If you're accelerating normally and want a good compromise between performance and fuel efficiency, shift around 8-10k. If you're trying to quiet the rowdy kids next to you in daddy's 318i, cook it up to 12k before hitting the next gear. Cruising revs should be between 6-10k.
 Shown here are torque (L) and horsepower (R) charts from Motorcycle.com's<br> [http://www.motorcycle.com/shoot-outs/25-caliber-shootout-12930.htm .25 caliber shootout]. The EX250 is the pink line.
@@ Line 22: / Line 22: @@
 When accelerating, you can pretty much downshift whenever you want a power boost. However, downshifting when doing anything over 11k rpm is pretty pointless, as you're already in your powerband. You want to try to downshift to keep revs between 9 and 12k; this is where you get the most tug for each twist of the wrist. You should let off the throttle momentarily while quickly disengaging the clutch and kicking it down, then opening the throttle up wide to match engine speed as you release the clutch lever again; this will give you the power you need to accelerate effectively.
+====RPM guidelines====
+The EX250 engine, along with those on most 'sporty' bikes, was designed for high-rpm use. There seem to be some compromises which make it harder to use at engine speeds lower than about 6000 rpm. Basically, there's no reason to ride any lower than 5000 rpm, except for while sitting at a light. Even then, you can't depend upon the engine for any power that far down.
+The following suggestions are just that. Get used to what works for you, and keep in mind that your Ninja '''likes''' to work at high engine speeds. These are not guidelines for how to get the best gas mileage from your engine. However, they are guidelines to help you avoid stumbling at low rpm and keep the engine spinning fast enough to be of some use if you need to suddenly go faster.
+* Mellow takeoff from a light: 3-4000 RPM
+* Aggressive take-off from a light: 5-6000
+* Only small throttle openings below 5000 (less than 1/3 throttle; better for your engine)
+* Never cruise below 6000 rpm
+* Never ride in-city at lower than 7000; this gives your more available power if you need to move
+* In spirited riding (ie... twisties) never drop below 8000
+* On the track, 9000 is about the lower limit, usually aiming for 9-11,000
 ====Clutchless shifting====