Checking the clutch safety switch: Difference between revisions
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[[Category:Clutch & Transmission]] | [[Category:Clutch & Transmission]] | ||
Your clutch switch is under the clutch lever. | Your clutch switch is under the clutch lever. | ||
The first thing to check is the sound. When the clutch (or brake) lever is squeezed, the switch moves. The Kawasaki switches have a 'click' at the transition between off and on. Squeeze the brake a couple of times to listen for the 'click', then go to the clutch side and listen for the same noise. | The first thing to check is the sound. When the clutch (or brake) lever is squeezed, the switch moves. The Kawasaki switches have a 'click' at the transition between off and on. Squeeze the brake a couple of times to listen for the 'click', then go to the clutch side and listen for the same noise. | ||
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Testing the switch should take all of ten minutes with an ohmmeter. Here's how to go about that: | Testing the switch should take all of ten minutes with an ohmmeter. Here's how to go about that: | ||
Physical: locate the switch. It's under the clutch lever. Examine it. If it has a black plunger sticking out of it which touches the hangy part of the lever (most visible when the lever is not pulled), the plunger is not broken. | Physical: locate the switch. It's under the clutch lever. Examine it. If it has a black plunger sticking out of it which touches the hangy part of the lever (most visible when the lever is not pulled), the plunger is not broken. | ||
Testing for switch function: follow the wires out of the switch to where they meet the wiring harness. Unplug the wiring harness. Take an ohmmeter (i.e... a multimeter set to "ohms", lowest range available if it is not auto-ranging) and stick the meter's probes into the middle and the left holes in the switch's plug. Pull and release the lever. The readout on the meter should change; in one position, it should be close to 0 ohms, in another position, it will be infinite. On an analog meter, 0 ohms is usually all the way to the right and infinite all the way to the left. On a digital meter, 0 is pretty obvious, infinite is usually something cryptic like "-0L" (consult meter manual for specifics). Now, test the middle and the right contacts. The behaviour should be the exact opposite. | Testing for switch function: follow the wires out of the switch to where they meet the wiring harness. Unplug the wiring harness. Take an ohmmeter (i.e... a multimeter set to "ohms", lowest range available if it is not auto-ranging) and stick the meter's probes into the middle and the left holes in the switch's plug. Pull and release the lever. The readout on the meter should change; in one position, it should be close to 0 ohms, in another position, it will be infinite. On an analog meter, 0 ohms is usually all the way to the right and infinite all the way to the left. On a digital meter, 0 is pretty obvious, infinite is usually something cryptic like "-0L" (consult meter manual for specifics). Now, test the middle and the right contacts. The behaviour should be the exact opposite. | ||
If you don't get these readings, you may need to either [[Cleaning and servicing the clutch switch|clean or replace]] your clutch switch. | If you don't get these readings, you may need to either [[Cleaning and servicing the clutch switch|clean or replace]] your clutch switch. | ||