Cam chain tensioner removal: Difference between revisions

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There have been a few reports from club members concerning the cam chain tensioner. On the whole, though, this has not been a big issue for 250 owners. Leon, a long-time club member and multiple 250 owner, says not to worry about it: "I've never had an issue with a cam tensioner on the Ninja. In this case, fixing it before it breaks may be what causes it to break. The inside of the engine should be a relatively clean, dry (without water) place. It should be fine where it is. In other words, if it ain't broke, don't fix it."
There have been a few reports from club members concerning the cam chain tensioner. On the whole, though, this has not been a big issue for 250 owners. Leon, a long-time club member and multiple 250 owner, says not to worry about it: "I've never had an issue with a cam tensioner on the Ninja. In this case, fixing it before it breaks may be what causes it to break."


If you are unsure about this issue, do a search on the board to help you make up your mind. There is a diagram at the [http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/400_0483/camshaft_tensioner/camshaft_tensioner.cfm?man=ka&groupid=3170&parent=3060 Ron Ayers parts fiche]. The usual noise for a tensioner getting worn is a loud ticking, similar to noisy (loose) valves. A new one is about $35. Part # for the whole assembly is 12048-1106. Below are instructions for periodic lubing, should you decide you wish to do that.
If you are unsure about this issue, do a search on the board to help you make up your mind. There is a diagram at the [http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/400_0483/camshaft_tensioner/camshaft_tensioner.cfm?man=ka&groupid=3170&parent=3060 Ron Ayers parts fiche]. The usual noise for a tensioner getting worn is a loud ticking, similar to noisy (loose) valves. A new one is about $35. Part # for the whole assembly is 12048-1106. Below are instructions for periodic lubing, should you decide you wish to do that.
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==Camshaft chain tensioner removal==
==Camshaft chain tensioner removal==


*Remove the right hand side panel. You will most likely find the combination of a 1/4" socket drive, a 1/4" extension, a 1/4" drive universal joint, and an 8mm socket to be the most useful means of removing the mounting bolts.
*Remove the right hand [[How do I remove the fairing, fuel tank, etc?|side panel]].  
*There are 2 bolts that hold the tensioner to the crankcase. The tensioner is under pressure from a rather strong spring, so be sure to back the mounting bolts out a little at a time on each side so the tensioner assembly does not become "cocked". Take special care toward the end of the mounting bolts' travel. Two 1/4-drive ratchets used simultaneously work well for this, or you can go back and forth with one ratchet. A 3/8-drive ratchet may be too big to work.  
*There are 2 bolts that hold the tensioner to the crankcase. The tensioner is under pressure from a rather strong spring, so be sure to back the mounting bolts out a little at a time on each side so the tensioner assembly does not become "cocked". Take special care toward the end of the mounting bolts' travel. Two 1/4-drive ratchets used simultaneously work well for this, or you can go back and forth with one ratchet. A 3/8-drive ratchet may be too big to work.  
*Carefully extract the tensioner assembly while watching for any parts that may fall.
*Carefully extract the tensioner assembly while watching for any parts that may fall.
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==Camshaft chain tensioner disassembly==
==Camshaft chain tensioner disassembly==
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*Grease the ball bearing and retainer assembly before placing it over the pushrod and pressing it into the tensioner body.
*Grease the ball bearing and retainer assembly before placing it over the pushrod and pressing it into the tensioner body.
*Slip the ball bearing and retainer spring over the pushrod.
*Slip the ball bearing and retainer spring over the pushrod.
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==Camshaft chain tensioner installation==
==Camshaft chain tensioner installation==