Cleaning the carbs 1: Difference between revisions
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Then, if you follow the directions, you'd drain and try starting after an hour or two... or just leave it to sit overnight. | Then, if you follow the directions, you'd drain and try starting after an hour or two... or just leave it to sit overnight. | ||
An aside from loudboys: | |||
*A good alternative is called [http://www.berrymanproducts.com/Default.aspx?tabid=146 Berryman Chem Dip]. It's absolutely the best carb cleaner on the planet. It comes in a gallon can; basically a paint can with an included basket to put the parts in and lower them into the can. I've been using this stuff for 25 years. You can take a carburetor that's been sitting in a junkyard for decades and clean it in an hour. The really great thing about it is that after you're done, you put the top back on and use it again later. A can of it will last for years. | |||
:Of course, '''you have to keep all rubber and paint well away from it''' (including rubber o-rings, diaphragms and seals). Hard plastic parts won't be affected. You'll want to wear gloves when you use it. | :Of course, '''you have to keep all rubber and paint well away from it''' (including rubber o-rings, diaphragms and seals). Hard plastic parts won't be affected. You'll want to wear gloves when you use it. | ||
Now, for those of you who want to do it right, this is the procedure for cleaning. No instructions for [[How do I remove the carbs to work on them?| | Now, for those of you who want to do it right, this is the procedure for cleaning. No instructions for [[How do I remove the carbs to work on them?|removing the carbs]] are included, though. If you can't follow the manual or FAQ to remove the carbs, then you probably aren't equipped to do this work. | ||
First are the chemicals: | First are the chemicals: | ||