A beginner's guide to maintenance tools: Difference between revisions
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[[Category:New Riders|Engine|Intake]] | [[Category:New Riders|Engine|Intake]] | ||
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This is the ULTRA | So, you're new to riding and want to save money by doing your own maintenance? | ||
This is the ULTRA beginner's guide, for those who haven't ''any'' experience, much less tools. For riders like you, the prospect is often a daunting one when it comes to doing any sort of work on your precious new bike. You're worried about screwing something up, voiding the warranty, and just generally getting in over your head. Well, not to worry. If you can read and use your hands, then you have what it takes to do anything your bike might need. | |||
==Become informed== | ==Become informed== | ||
Just like gear is needed before you start riding, information is needed before you start wrenching. This forum, its associated FAQ, and its archive search are an amazing free resource. Chances are that no matter what you plan on doing, a handful of members have already done the same job. And it's even fairly likely that there's a pictorial write-up | Just like gear is needed before you start riding, information is needed before you start wrenching. This forum, its associated FAQ, and its archive search are an amazing free resource. Chances are that no matter what you plan on doing, a handful of members have already done the same job. And it's even fairly likely that there's a pictorial write-up in the FAQ with step-by-step instructions. But that doesn't mean you should skip out on buying the [[Service Manual|factory service manuals]] ~ there's a lot of detailed information in those 2 manuals that's not found anywhere else. And yes, that includes the cheap aftermarket knock-offs (like Haynes). There is sometimes information in those that is just blatantly wrong. Since this is asked from time to time, there are no legal downloads of the manuals. It's not on CD, and be wary of the copies on eBay ~ Kawasaki takes its copyright laws seriously. | ||
[http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Ninja_250_Rider%27s_bookshelf#Maintenance_and_Repair See here] for the manuals needed and their associated part numbers. You can buy the manuals from anywhere that supplies factory Kawasaki parts. | [http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Ninja_250_Rider%27s_bookshelf#Maintenance_and_Repair See here] for the manuals needed and their associated part numbers. You can buy the manuals from anywhere that supplies factory Kawasaki parts. | ||
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==Tools to buy== | ==Tools to buy== | ||
This is a touchy topic with a lot of 'right' answers. It's a good idea to make sure that the stuff you use most often is of the highest quality, | This is a touchy topic with a lot of 'right' answers. It's a good idea to make sure that the stuff you use most often is of the highest quality, while the stuff you use only occasionally can be cheaper. There's an old saying that 'Only a wealthy man can afford cheap tools', because the tools themselves will break, and they'll do a sub-par job. The best example is trying to remove a phillips screw: most cheap screwdrivers will not grip the screw very well and will end up stripping out the head in short order. Then you will have to worry about trying to get it out [[I need to remove a stripped screw|some other way]], when a good tool would have done it the first time. Spend your money on the best you can afford; you'll be doing these purchases in small steps, so it's not out of the question that you could buy Snap-On/Mac/Matco type tools. See the [[Ratings Of Tools By Brand|tool article]] for a discussion of tool brands. | ||
==Recommended tool purchases, broken down by common jobs== | ==Recommended tool purchases, broken down by common jobs== | ||
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====Oil changing tools==== | ====Oil changing tools==== | ||
The first maintenance item most riders are likely to perform will be changing the oil. Not a very daunting task, you've heard it said. Maybe you've seen it done with family cars. There are only 2 bolts, and they're the same size (17mm on the 250). So, the first tool purchase is going to be a 3/8-drive | The first maintenance item most riders are likely to perform will be changing the oil. Not a very daunting task, you've heard it said. Maybe you've seen it done with family cars. There are only 2 bolts, and they're the same size (17mm on the 250). So, the first tool purchase is going to be a 3/8-drive socket wrench and a set of sockets ''or'' a set of combination wrenches. Sockets are generally a little easier to use, especially for this particular task, but they cannot be used on all aspects of motorcycle maintenance. If you buy a set, the important sizes are 8,10,12,14,17, and 19mm. For the EX250, you'll also need 22mm and 24mm sockets for the axles. 13 and 15mm are usually included in such sets but are rarely used on motorcycles (they will come in handy if you work on metric cars, though). For another look at what should be in your toolbox, [[What should a good set of tools include?|see here]]. | ||
A 6-point socket is superior to a 12-point because it fits the bolt/nut better, providing more surface area and less chance of rounding off the head. For $100 you can buy all these pieces from a high-end maker, or about $70 from Sears/Home Depot/Lowe's. Always buy from a company that offers a lifetime unconditional guarantee and is easy to access | A 6-point socket is superior to a 12-point because it fits the bolt/nut better, providing more surface area and less chance of rounding off the head. For $100 you can buy all these pieces from a high-end maker, or about $70 from Sears/Home Depot/Lowe's. Always buy from a company that offers a lifetime unconditional guarantee and is easy to access. You'll also need an oil drain pan ($10). A funnel and rubber gloves really help a lot, too. | ||
[http://www.microflex.com/products/catalog/dg.asp MicroFlex Diamond Grip] latex gloves work well. These have a unique texture on the fingers that actually grips after they get wet. They're inexpensive, and you can use one pair for a whole day of wrenching. For the areas the gloves don't cover, [http://www2.northerntool.com/product/580415.htm Gojo hand cleaner], or something similar, is easy on your hands but still gets them clean. | [http://www.microflex.com/products/catalog/dg.asp MicroFlex Diamond Grip] latex gloves work well. These have a unique texture on the fingers that actually grips after they get wet. They're inexpensive, and you can use one pair for a whole day of wrenching. For the areas the gloves don't cover, [http://www2.northerntool.com/product/580415.htm Gojo hand cleaner], or something similar, is easy on your hands but still gets them clean. | ||
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*A [[Lubing the cables|cable luber]]: $10 item that's absolutely necessary for keeping your clutch and throttle cables in good working order | *A [[Lubing the cables|cable luber]]: $10 item that's absolutely necessary for keeping your clutch and throttle cables in good working order | ||
You'll find by this point that you're fairly comfortable working on your bike. After you have all the tools you need, start getting those that will make doing the work easier/quicker. One example is a T-handle that can accommodate 3/8-drive sockets. You may find you use it more than your actual socket wrenches. As you do more work, you'll always find an excuse to buy more tools. | |||
Hopefully this will help the newer riders out there who often have simple questions of the maintenance nature. Get the proper resources, use the right tools, and you'll be well on your way to a well-maintained bike. | Hopefully this will help the newer riders out there who often have simple questions of the maintenance nature. Get the proper resources, use the right tools, and you'll be well on your way to a well-maintained bike. | ||