Removing J bike carbs: Difference between revisions

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Motorcycles, and Kawasakis in general, and EX250s specifically, are known for not always having all their carb settings in perfect order right out of the box. Here's how to take care of that problem.  
Motorcycles, and Kawasakis in general, and EX250s specifically, are known for not always having all their carb settings in perfect order right out of the box. Here's how to take care of that problem.  


Start by [[Removing 250J tank & bodywork|removing the fairings]]. Then, once the fairings are out of the way, you get to see all the different things that are still in your way to get at the carbs. There's a lot; no 10-minute carb removals on this bike, that's for sure.
Start by [[Removing 250J tank & bodywork|removing the fairings]]. Then, once the fairings are out of the way, you get to see all the different things that are still in your way to get at the carbs. There's a lot; no 10-minute carb removals on this bike.


So, what should you do next? Well, after you've done this once you may just want to put the fairings back on and sell the bike. If you're stubborn and/or foolhardy, continue reading.
[[Removing 250J tank & bodywork|Remove the gas tank]]. You can wait until later, but it'll go easier on you if you do it now.


First, you might want to [[Removing 250J tank & bodywork|remove the gas tank]]. You can wait until later, but it'll go easier on you if you do it now.
So, now the tank's out of the way, but you still can't really get the carbs out easily. Go to the right side, bring your #2 phillips, and remove the screw holding the throttle cable plate to the carb. Remove the cables from the carbs. Some find it easier to loosen the cable nuts and detach the cable ends. Measure or mark where they are for when you put them back.  


So, now the tank's out of the way, but you still can't really get the carbs out easily. Go to the right side, bring your #2 phillips, and remove the screw holding the throttle cable plate to the carb. Remove the cables from the carbs.
Grab a 10mm and an 8mm socket and, on the right side, remove the bolts holding the coolant tank (optional) to the bike and the bracket where the upper rear bolt mounts the fairing (5mm). Two 8mm-headed bolts hold the coolant tank, and three 10mm-headed bolts hold the brackets. On the left side, pop the idle speed screw out of the bracket, and remove the bolts holding the fairing bracket thing out of the way.


Grab a 10mm and an 8mm socket and, on the right side, remove the bolts holding the coolant tank to the bike and the bracket where the upper rear bolt mounts the fairing (5mm). Two 8mm-headed bolts hold the coolant tank, and three 10mm-headed bolts hold the brackets. On the left side, pop the idle speed screw out of the bracket, and remove the bolts holding the fairing bracket thing out of the way.
Oh yeah, they routed the clutch cable through a loop that is part of the coolant reservoir bottle. Good luck moving it out of the way enough to remove the 8mm headed bolt at the bracket.
 
Oh yeah, they routed the clutch cable through a loop that is part of the coolant reservoir bottle. Good luck moving it out of the way enough to remove the 8mm headed bolt at the bracket. Bastards.


So, now you are getting closer to removing the carbs, but you aren't there yet. Remove the 3 phillips screws holding the battery box and its cover. Remove the battery.
So, now you are getting closer to removing the carbs, but you aren't there yet. Remove the 3 phillips screws holding the battery box and its cover. Remove the battery.