Installing emulators and springs: Difference between revisions

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Step 17: Now that the damper rod is back in place, the next major step is to measure out your fork spacers. The length of the fork spacers determines the preload setting for the fork spring. Longer = more preload. Sonic Springs recommends you set the preload to 1/2", so that's what was done. In order to measure this out, place the GVE atop the damper rod, followed by the new spring, followed by TWO washers (supplied by Sonic). Then, place the (not yet cut, long) spacer tube in and mark the tube at the top of the fork tube (let's call this length L). Next, measure (with the calipers) the width of the fork cap (~14mm) and the length down from the top of the fork tube to where the top of the fork cap sits (in the range of ~11mm) For 1/2" (12.7mm) of preload you want the top of the fork cap (with the spring uncompressed) to sit 1/2" above the ring-groove, so that means cutting the spacer to L - (14 + 11 - 12.7). ~~For me,~~ this equated to about 93mm.

Step 17: Now that the damper rod is back in place, the next major step is to measure out your fork spacers. For this part, see also [[Where can I get some preload spacers?]]

The length of the fork spacers determines the preload setting for the fork spring. Longer = more preload. Sonic Springs recommends you set the preload to 1/2", so that's what was done. In order to measure this out, place the GVE atop the damper rod, followed by the new spring, followed by TWO washers (supplied by Sonic). Then, place the (not yet cut, long) spacer tube in and mark the tube at the top of the fork tube (let's call this length L). Next, measure (with the calipers) the width of the fork cap (~14mm) and the length down from the top of the fork tube to where the top of the fork cap sits (in the range of ~11mm) For 1/2" (12.7mm) of preload you want the top of the fork cap (with the spring uncompressed) to sit 1/2" above the ring-groove, so that means cutting the spacer to L - (14 + 11 - 12.7). On this bike that equated to about 93mm.

Sonic springs gives you a long tube of PVC pipe to make the spacer. Cut the spacer to length and clean up the edges to prevent loose pieces of PVC from floating around.

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Step 18: Add fork oil and bleed. This is done without the GVE or spring or anything else (other than the damper rod) in the fork tube. Add enough oil that when the fork is completely extended the oil still covers the inner tube. Pump the fork up and down a while until you hear (and see) no more air coming out. Not too complicated.

Step 19: Assembly~~/Set~~ fork oil level~~: Now, as~~ gently as possible so as to minimize a big splash of fork oil, drop the GVE down into the fork tube. Fully compress the fork. Measure from the top of the fork the distance to the fork oil. This is the important thing: the fork oil level. Racetech recommends 130mm of fork oil. Sonic Springs (and others on this website) suggest 115mm. 125mm was chosen by our rider. Remember to take your time. Set up a jig or something to hold the fork upright at this point, so ~~that~~ you don't spill fork oil.

Step 19: Assembly and setting the fork oil level. As gently as possible so as to minimize a big splash of fork oil, drop the GVE down into the fork tube. Fully compress the fork. Measure from the top of the fork the distance to the fork oil. This is the important thing: the fork oil level. Racetech recommends 130mm of fork oil. Sonic Springs (and others on this website) suggest 115mm. 125mm was chosen by our rider. Remember to take your time. Set up a jig or something to hold the fork upright at this point so you don't spill fork oil.

Step 20: Install the fork springs ~~after that~~, then a washer, then the spacer, then another washer. ~~Now place~~ the fork cap back on. If everything is done correctly the cap will be 1/2" (preload setting) above the ring. So, you'll have to compress the spring to get the circle/ring clip (or [[How do I remove the fork caps/pistons?|new circlip]]) back on:

Step 20: Install the fork springs, then a washer, then the spacer, then another washer. Place the fork cap back on. If everything is done correctly, the cap will be 1/2" (preload setting) above the ring. So, you'll have to compress the spring to get the circle/ring clip (or [[How do I remove the fork caps/pistons?|new circlip]]) back on:

[[image:18010132199-2.jpg|150px]]

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Step 22: Use your trusty jaw puller tool to compress the spring and set the fork cap in place with the clip.

Step 23: ~~Now we want to set~~ the fork height to (probably, depending on your goals) what it was before. That was 12mm above the top triple clamp. Don't torque yet!!

Step 23: Set the fork height to (probably, depending on your goals) what it was before. That was 12mm above the top triple clamp on this bike. Don't torque yet!

Step 24: Install the fender.

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Step 25: Install the brake caliper. (torque 24 lb-ft)

Step 26: Install the front wheel. (axle nut torque 65 lb-ft)

Step 26: [[Reinstalling the front wheel|Install the front wheel]]. (axle nut torque 65 lb-ft)

Step 27: With the front end still supported by the jack (or whatever you're using ~~to support the bike~~) loosen up each fork in the triple clamps (one at a time, not both) in order to reduce any kind of imperceptible imbalance in fork height between either side. Do this for one side, then re-tighten, then repeat for the other side.

Step 27: With the front end still supported by the jack (or whatever you're using) loosen up each fork in the triple clamps (one at a time, not both) in order to reduce any kind of imperceptible imbalance in fork height between either side. Do this for one side, then re-tighten, then repeat for the other side.

Step 28: Torque the pinch bolts in the triple clamps to spec. Upper is 14.5 lb-ft, lower is 22 lb-ft, according to the shop manual.

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Step 32: Cautiously take your bike for a test ride.

Total time for an experienced machine worker, but who was a total newbie to forks, including clean-up and lunch break, was ~~about~~ 6 hours or so.

Total time for an experienced machine worker, but who was a total newbie to forks, including clean-up and lunch break, was 6 hours or so.

====Adjusting the emulators====

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The Racetech instructions will tell you how to adjust these to your preference. Just note that after you have the GVE's installed, it's possible to remove them for adjustment by just dropping the handlebars, popping the fork caps, washers, spacers and springs, and fishing them out with a little loop of copper wire. There's no need to drop the wheel and remove the forks just to change those little adjustment springs.

====Conclusions~~/Results:~~====

====Conclusions====

Like some other members have posted, the new suspension ~~REALLY~~ soaks up bumps. It is incredible. I tested out some reflectors (you know, the kind on the lane markers) at 40 mph, and by and large there was very little energy transmitted to the handlebars. And yet the increased stiffness is very noticeable when it comes to braking--there is weight transfer (as there should be) but the dramatic nose-dive is eliminated. SCORE!

From our owner: Like some other members have posted, the new suspension ''really'' soaks up bumps. It is incredible. I tested out some reflectors (you know, the kind on the lane markers) at 40 mph, and by and large there was very little energy transmitted to the handlebars. And yet the increased stiffness is very noticeable when it comes to braking--there is weight transfer (as there should be) but the dramatic nose-dive is eliminated. SCORE!

I would definitely recommend the stiffer springs and the GVE's to anyone who is interested in riding their EX250 for anything longer than a year. It is worth it. I feel more confident and safer because the bike feels planted and responsive.

If anything, the great front suspension now highlights the weakness of the stock rear suspension...

@@ Line 119: / Line 119: @@
 [[image:18010132132.jpg|150px]]
-Step 17: Now that the damper rod is back in place, the next major step is to measure out your fork spacers. The length of the fork spacers determines the preload setting for the fork spring. Longer = more preload. Sonic Springs recommends you set the preload to 1/2", so that's what was done. In order to measure this out, place the GVE atop the damper rod, followed by the new spring, followed by TWO washers (supplied by Sonic). Then, place the (not yet cut, long) spacer tube in and mark the tube at the top of the fork tube (let's call this length L). Next, measure (with the calipers) the width of the fork cap (~14mm) and the length down from the top of the fork tube to where the top of the fork cap sits (in the range of ~11mm)  For 1/2" (12.7mm) of preload you want the top of the fork cap (with the spring uncompressed) to sit 1/2" above the ring-groove, so that means cutting the spacer to L - (14 + 11 - 12.7). For me, this equated to about 93mm.
+Step 17: Now that the damper rod is back in place, the next major step is to measure out your fork spacers. For this part, see also [[Where can I get some preload spacers?]]
+The length of the fork spacers determines the preload setting for the fork spring. Longer = more preload. Sonic Springs recommends you set the preload to 1/2", so that's what was done. In order to measure this out, place the GVE atop the damper rod, followed by the new spring, followed by TWO washers (supplied by Sonic). Then, place the (not yet cut, long) spacer tube in and mark the tube at the top of the fork tube (let's call this length L). Next, measure (with the calipers) the width of the fork cap (~14mm) and the length down from the top of the fork tube to where the top of the fork cap sits (in the range of ~11mm)  For 1/2" (12.7mm) of preload you want the top of the fork cap (with the spring uncompressed) to sit 1/2" above the ring-groove, so that means cutting the spacer to L - (14 + 11 - 12.7). On this bike that equated to about 93mm.
 Sonic springs gives you a long tube of PVC pipe to make the spacer. Cut the spacer to length and clean up the edges to prevent loose pieces of PVC from floating around.
@@ Line 125: / Line 127: @@
 Step 18: Add fork oil and bleed. This is done without the GVE or spring or anything else (other than the damper rod) in the fork tube. Add enough oil that when the fork is completely extended the oil still covers the inner tube. Pump the fork up and down a while until you hear (and see) no more air coming out. Not too complicated.
-Step 19: Assembly/Set fork oil level: Now, as gently as possible so as to minimize a big splash of fork oil, drop the GVE down into the fork tube. Fully compress the fork. Measure from the top of the fork the distance to the fork oil. This is the important thing: the fork oil level. Racetech recommends 130mm of fork oil. Sonic Springs (and others on this website) suggest 115mm. 125mm was chosen by our rider. Remember to take your time. Set up a jig or something to hold the fork upright at this point, so that you don't spill fork oil.
+Step 19: Assembly and setting the fork oil level. As gently as possible so as to minimize a big splash of fork oil, drop the GVE down into the fork tube. Fully compress the fork. Measure from the top of the fork the distance to the fork oil. This is the important thing: the fork oil level. Racetech recommends 130mm of fork oil. Sonic Springs (and others on this website) suggest 115mm. 125mm was chosen by our rider. Remember to take your time. Set up a jig or something to hold the fork upright at this point so you don't spill fork oil.
-Step 20: Install the fork springs after that, then a washer, then the spacer, then another washer. Now place the fork cap back on. If everything is done correctly the cap will be 1/2" (preload setting) above the ring. So, you'll have to compress the spring to get the circle/ring clip (or [[How do I remove the fork caps/pistons?|new circlip]]) back on:
+Step 20: Install the fork springs, then a washer, then the spacer, then another washer. Place the fork cap back on. If everything is done correctly, the cap will be 1/2" (preload setting) above the ring. So, you'll have to compress the spring to get the circle/ring clip (or [[How do I remove the fork caps/pistons?|new circlip]]) back on:
 [[image:18010132199-2.jpg|150px]]
@@ Line 135: / Line 137: @@
 Step 22: Use your trusty jaw puller tool to compress the spring and set the fork cap in place with the clip.
-Step 23: Now we want to set the fork height to (probably, depending on your goals) what it was before. That was 12mm above the top triple clamp. Don't torque yet!!
+Step 23: Set the fork height to (probably, depending on your goals) what it was before. That was 12mm above the top triple clamp on this bike. Don't torque yet!
 Step 24: Install the fender.
@@ Line 141: / Line 143: @@
 Step 25: Install the brake caliper. (torque 24 lb-ft)
-Step 26: Install the front wheel. (axle nut torque 65 lb-ft)
+Step 26: [[Reinstalling the front wheel|Install the front wheel]]. (axle nut torque 65 lb-ft)
-Step 27: With the front end still supported by the jack (or whatever you're using to support the bike) loosen up each fork in the triple clamps (one at a time, not both) in order to reduce any kind of imperceptible imbalance in fork height between either side. Do this for one side, then re-tighten, then repeat for the other side.
+Step 27: With the front end still supported by the jack (or whatever you're using) loosen up each fork in the triple clamps (one at a time, not both) in order to reduce any kind of imperceptible imbalance in fork height between either side. Do this for one side, then re-tighten, then repeat for the other side.
 Step 28: Torque the pinch bolts in the triple clamps to spec. Upper is 14.5 lb-ft, lower is 22 lb-ft, according to the shop manual.
@@ Line 155: / Line 157: @@
 Step 32: Cautiously take your bike for a test ride.
-Total time for an experienced machine worker, but who was a total newbie to forks, including clean-up and lunch break, was about 6 hours or so.
+Total time for an experienced machine worker, but who was a total newbie to forks, including clean-up and lunch break, was 6 hours or so.
 ====Adjusting the emulators====
@@ Line 161: / Line 163: @@
 The Racetech instructions will tell you how to adjust these to your preference. Just note that after you have the GVE's installed, it's possible to remove them for adjustment by just dropping the handlebars, popping the fork caps, washers, spacers and springs, and fishing them out with a little loop of copper wire. There's no need to drop the wheel and remove the forks just to change those little adjustment springs.
-====Conclusions/Results:====
+====Conclusions====
-Like some other members have posted, the new suspension REALLY soaks up bumps. It is incredible. I tested out some reflectors (you know, the kind on the lane markers) at 40 mph, and by and large there was very little energy transmitted to the handlebars. And yet the increased stiffness is very noticeable when it comes to braking--there is weight transfer (as there should be) but the dramatic nose-dive is eliminated. SCORE!
+From our owner: Like some other members have posted, the new suspension ''really'' soaks up bumps. It is incredible. I tested out some reflectors (you know, the kind on the lane markers) at 40 mph, and by and large there was very little energy transmitted to the handlebars. And yet the increased stiffness is very noticeable when it comes to braking--there is weight transfer (as there should be) but the dramatic nose-dive is eliminated. SCORE!
 I would definitely recommend the stiffer springs and the GVE's to anyone who is interested in riding their EX250 for anything longer than a year. It is worth it. I feel more confident and safer because the bike feels planted and responsive.
 If anything, the great front suspension now highlights the weakness of the stock rear suspension...