Oil Change Procedure: Difference between revisions

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====What is the oil change procedure?====

Warm up the engine. Turn off the engine and let it sit for a few minutes; place the bike on centerstand. Removing the lower fairing is optional; some people prefer to do it because it's quick, gives you a bit more room in which to work, and minimizes mess; others think it's not worth the effort, so it's up to you; it's held on by 7 bolts. Remove the drain plug bolt on the bottom of the engine over a 3+ qt container (don't burn yourself). Removing the oil filler cap will help the oil drain faster. Let the oil drain for 15-20 minutes, then replace the bolt, using a new drain plug gasket, #92065. (~~They~~'re cheap. Stock up.) Tighten to 14.5 lb/fts; don't overtighten it or you risk stripping the threads out of the engine case. This is difficult to fix. Remove the oil filter bolt and filter retainer, just in front of the drain bolt. More oil and a dirty filter element will come out. Be sure to keep all the springs/grommets in order.

Warm up the engine. Turn off the engine and let it sit for a few minutes; place the bike on centerstand. Removing the lower fairing is optional; some people prefer to do it because it's quick, gives you a bit more room in which to work, and minimizes mess; others think it's not worth the effort, so it's up to you; it's held on by 7 bolts. Remove the drain plug bolt on the bottom of the engine over a 3+ qt container (don't burn yourself). Removing the oil filler cap will help the oil drain faster. Let the oil drain for 15-20 minutes, then replace the bolt, using a new drain plug gasket, #92065. (Many people don't replace these every time, but they're cheap. Stock up.) Tighten to 14.5 lb/fts; don't overtighten it or you risk stripping the threads out of the engine case. This is difficult to fix. Remove the oil filter bolt and filter retainer, just in front of the drain bolt. More oil and a dirty filter element will come out. Be sure to keep all the springs/grommets in order.

Place the new filter (STP SMO-12; see [[Oil Filters|oil filter page]] for options) on the retainer, and replace the assembly, again torquing the bolt to 14.5 ft/lbs. Open the filler cap on the right side of engine if you haven't already. Fill w/ 1.5 qts of your favorite oil. Wait a minute, then add a very small amount of oil at a time until oil is halfway up the level-check window. Replace the filler cap. Start up the bike and let it run for a minute, then shut off the engine and wait a few minutes before checking the window again. Put another few ounces of oil in. Repeat until oil level is consistently in the center of the view window. Centerline in the window while the bike is on centerstand is the same as full with both wheels on the ground. Do not overfill (you could blow a gasket).

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[[Image:oil filter assembly.jpg|150px]]

'''Note on the O-rings:''' Your new filter will usually (not always) come with two new O-rings. It's fairly obvious where the larger one (#671 in photo above) goes, inside the filter assembly cap. The small one (#670) is supposed to go on the bolt that holds the whole assembly together, but if you leave the bolt attached to the cap (#14025) there's no need to change this O-ring. Hang on to it, though, on the very off chance that the old one starts leaking. Most club members rarely change it and never have any problems.

====Often forgotten: Checking the oil screen====

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 ====What is the oil change procedure?====
-Warm up the engine. Turn off the engine and let it sit for a few minutes; place the bike on centerstand. Removing the lower fairing is optional; some people prefer to do it because it's quick, gives you a bit more room in which to work, and minimizes mess; others think it's not worth the effort, so it's up to you; it's held on by 7 bolts. Remove the drain plug bolt on the bottom of the engine over a 3+ qt container (don't burn yourself). Removing the oil filler cap will help the oil drain faster. Let the oil drain for 15-20 minutes, then replace the bolt, using a new drain plug gasket, #92065. (They're cheap. Stock up.) Tighten to 14.5 lb/fts; don't overtighten it or you risk stripping the threads out of the engine case. This is difficult to fix. Remove the oil filter bolt and filter retainer, just in front of the drain bolt. More oil and a dirty filter element will come out. Be sure to keep all the springs/grommets in order.
+Warm up the engine. Turn off the engine and let it sit for a few minutes; place the bike on centerstand. Removing the lower fairing is optional; some people prefer to do it because it's quick, gives you a bit more room in which to work, and minimizes mess; others think it's not worth the effort, so it's up to you; it's held on by 7 bolts. Remove the drain plug bolt on the bottom of the engine over a 3+ qt container (don't burn yourself). Removing the oil filler cap will help the oil drain faster. Let the oil drain for 15-20 minutes, then replace the bolt, using a new drain plug gasket, #92065. (Many people don't replace these every time, but they're cheap. Stock up.) Tighten to 14.5 lb/fts; don't overtighten it or you risk stripping the threads out of the engine case. This is difficult to fix. Remove the oil filter bolt and filter retainer, just in front of the drain bolt. More oil and a dirty filter element will come out. Be sure to keep all the springs/grommets in order.
 Place the new filter (STP SMO-12; see [[Oil Filters|oil filter page]] for options) on the retainer, and replace the assembly, again torquing the bolt to 14.5 ft/lbs. Open the filler cap on the right side of engine if you haven't already. Fill w/ 1.5 qts of your favorite oil. Wait a minute, then add a very small amount of oil at a time until oil is halfway up the level-check window. Replace the filler cap. Start up the bike and let it run for a minute, then shut off the engine and wait a few minutes before checking the window again. Put another few ounces of oil in. Repeat until oil level is consistently in the center of the view window. Centerline in the window while the bike is on centerstand is the same as full with both wheels on the ground. Do not overfill (you could blow a gasket).
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 [[Image:oil filter assembly.jpg|150px]]
+'''Note on the O-rings:''' Your new filter will usually (not always) come with two new O-rings. It's fairly obvious where the larger one (#671 in photo above) goes, inside the filter assembly cap. The small one (#670) is supposed to go on the bolt that holds the whole assembly together, but if you leave the bolt attached to the cap (#14025) there's no need to change this O-ring. Hang on to it, though, on the very off chance that the old one starts leaking. Most club members rarely change it and never have any problems.
 ====Often forgotten: Checking the oil screen====