Servicing the swingarm: Difference between revisions

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[[Category:Suspension]]

This is an important, but often neglected, part of your bike's maintenance. One reason that this operation is so important is that Kawasaki is sometimes stingy with the grease in this area (one member said the factory lube felt like a light coating of machine oil). If you let it go too long, the lack of lubrication could lead to dried-out and/or rusty swingarm bearings. ~~This does not make for~~ a ~~well-suspended bike~~.

This is an important, but often neglected, part of your bike's maintenance. One reason that this operation is so important is that Kawasaki is sometimes stingy with the grease in this area (one member said the factory lube felt like a light coating of machine oil). If you let it go too long, the lack of lubrication could lead to dried-out and/or rusty swingarm bearings. Poor swingarm lubrication can lead to corroded parts, excess/inconsistent rear suspension damping, limited suspension travel, and a creaking sound which is particularly pronounced mounting and dismounting the motorcycle.

The service schedule calls for lubrication of the swingarm pivot every 6000 miles.

Please note: The service schedule calls for the suspension linkage inspection/lubrication to be done at the same time. You will have to consult your service manual for this part, as we do not have an FAQ writeup for that at this time.

Please note: The service schedule calls for the suspension linkage inspection/lubrication to be done at the same time. You will have to consult your service manual for this part, as we do not have an FAQ writeup for that at this time. This basically consists of removing all the bolts to the Unitrak rocker arm and tie rods ("dogbones"), pushing the bushings out (they should come out easily -- if not, get out your wallet), inspect them for wear, lube them with moly grease, and put 'em back in.

'''Tools/supplies needed'''

*22mm, 19mm, 17mm, 14mm, 12mm sockets and appropriate ratchet handle and/or wrenches

*22mm, 19mm, 17mm, 14mm, 12mm sockets and appropriate ratchet handle and/or wrenches. In particular, a 19mm open-ended wrench (suspension linkage 'holder wrench') and a 17mm open-ended wrench (or low-profile socket + ratchet (brake torque link arm), a 12" extension and a 30" breaker bar or piece of iron pipe will make this job a lot easier.

*Kerosene (or low flash point solvent)

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*[[Torque Values|Torque Values list]]

*Molybdenum disulfide grease (~~specified~~ in the ~~manual, but any moly~~ bearing ~~grease should be fine~~)

*Molybdenum disulfide ("Moly") grease (any high-pressure bearing grease will do, however, a waterproof lithium grease containing molybdenum disulphide is the best choice. The factory explicitly calls for molybdenum disulphide, as it is an extremely effective additive for needle bearings in oscillating applications, and reduces wear by plating the bearing needles).

*O-rings [note - dig up part number and size - 22mm?]. The Unitrak linkage uses a LOT of O-rings around the bushings, and it isn't that unusual to find some damaged ones on a high-miles bike, especially one with a custom rear shock with imperfect clevis fit (e.g. ZX600C or SV650 shocks). It is absolutely imperative these O-rings are in good shape. Hence, purchasing a couple before servicing your swingarm is not a bad idea.

This is a picture of generic wheel bearing grease, not what the factory recommends:

[[Image:grease2.jpg|200px]] [[Image:grease.jpg|200px]]

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[[Image:mywrencher.jpg|200px]]

1) Remove mufflers using a 12mm (header pipe) and 14mm socket (footpeg bracket) ~~(this step can be skipped, but~~ it ~~makes~~ it ~~possible/much easier~~ to ~~get a torque wrench on~~ the ~~appropriate nuts)~~.

Note -- if cheap labour is unavailable, blue nitrile gloves make an excellent alternative.

1) Remove mufflers using a 12mm (header pipe) and 14mm socket (footpeg bracket). You may need to "rotate" the muffler to get it off the header. While it is off, you can also clean the chain lube off the header and muffler. Note: The factory suggests you remove both mufflers. It is only necessary to remove the left one.

[[Image:withoutmuffler.jpg|200px]] [[Image:withoutmuffler2.jpg|200px]]

2) Remove rear wheel ([[How can I change the tires by myself?|instructions located here]]). Make sure to tie your brake caliper out of the way and ensure there is no pressure on the hydraulic brake line.

2) Remove rear wheel ([[How can I change the tires by myself?|instructions located here]]). Make sure to tie your brake caliper out of the way and ensure there is no pressure on the hydraulic brake line. One way to keep it out of the way is to slide a long extension (or piece of threaded rod) through it and hang it through the passenger peg brackets. Make sure your chain will not lie in dirt (big piece of cardboard works well here).

[[Image:brakeremoved.jpg|200px]] [[Image:wheelremoved.jpg|200px]]

3) Remove nut from swingarm pivot (22mm), lower shock mount (19mm) and upper tie rod arms (19mm), but do not remove the bolts/pivot shaft.

3) Remove nut from swingarm pivot (22mm), lower shock mount (19mm) and upper tie rod arms (19mm), but do not remove the bolts/pivot shaft. The easiest way to remove the 19mm nuts is to "lock" them in place with a 19mm open-ended wrench, and spin their corresponding bolt heads with a 17mm socket, extension, and breaker bar (or ratchet + piece of pipe).

[[Image:swingarmclose.jpg|200px]] [[Image:pivotnutremoved.jpg|200px]]

4) ~~Remove~~ the lower shock bolt and upper tie rod bolts ~~while holding~~ the swingarm up.

4) Slide something under the swingarm to hold it up (like a milk crate) and remove the lower shock bolt and upper tie rod bolts.

5) Remove the swingarm pivot shaft. This comes out just like a wheel axle. An easy way to get this out is to tap it out with a long extension and rubber mallet or piece of 2x4. When the pivot comes out, the extension is in, providing support for the swingarm. Now remove the extension.

~~5) Support~~ the swingarm (with your hand ~~is fine)~~ while removing the pivot shaft~~. (It helps if you~~ push the shaft through from the left with your finger first, ~~so you can~~ grab the shaft and pull from the right).

Alternatively, you can support the swingarm with your hand while removing the pivot shaft and push the shaft through from the left with your finger first, then run around the bike and grab the shaft and then pull from the right.

6) Untangle the swingarm from the chain and shock by pulling back on the swingarm until the bottom of the shock clears the crossbrace. Then, rotate the swingarm to the right to unhook the chain and remove it. Be sure your brake lines are disconnected from the swingarm.

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[[Image:swingarmoff.jpg|200px]]

Remove the rubber chain guard from the swingarm, and wipe off any crud from it and the swingarm.

Remove the rubber chain guard from the swingarm (warning: soft bolts) and wipe off any crud from it and the swingarm. If you are planning to re-paint the swingarm when you see how horrible it looks, Duplicolor silver wheel paint, available at fine Walmart stores everywhere, is a perfect match.

7) Remove the plastic rings from either end of the pivot shaft and clean them. They pop out easily with your fingernails.

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12) If bearings, sleeve or shaft need replacing, ''replace bearings and sleeve as a unit.''

13) If everything is okay, [[Greasing the axles & wheel bearings|pack the bearings]] with moly grease with your finger. Lightly grease the pivot sleeve and re-install through the bearings. Re-install the plastic rings after wiping any crud off of them.

13) If everything is okay, [[Greasing the axles & wheel bearings|pack the bearings]] with moly grease with your finger. Use lots of grease, there is plenty of room inside the swingarm. Lightly grease the pivot sleeve and re-install through the bearings. Re-install the plastic rings after wiping any crud off of them.

14) Reinstall the swingarm by supporting the swingarm with one hand and feeding the pivot shaft through from the right side of the bike. Be sure the rubber chain guard is on the swingarm before doing this. It's easily forgotten, and is a major time-suck to take apart again if you forget it. Put the nut on the swingarm shaft a few turns, but do not tighten.

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
 [[Category:Suspension]]
-This is an important, but often neglected, part of your bike's maintenance. One reason that this operation is so important is that Kawasaki is sometimes stingy with the grease in this area (one member said the factory lube felt like a light coating of machine oil). If you let it go too long, the lack of lubrication could lead to dried-out and/or rusty swingarm bearings. This does not make for a well-suspended bike.
+This is an important, but often neglected, part of your bike's maintenance. One reason that this operation is so important is that Kawasaki is sometimes stingy with the grease in this area (one member said the factory lube felt like a light coating of machine oil). If you let it go too long, the lack of lubrication could lead to dried-out and/or rusty swingarm bearings. Poor swingarm lubrication can lead to corroded parts, excess/inconsistent rear suspension damping, limited suspension travel, and a creaking sound which is particularly pronounced mounting and dismounting the motorcycle.
 The service schedule calls for lubrication of the swingarm pivot every 6000 miles.
-Please note: The service schedule calls for the suspension linkage inspection/lubrication to be done at the same time. You will have to consult your service manual for this part, as we do not have an FAQ writeup for that at this time.
+Please note: The service schedule calls for the suspension linkage inspection/lubrication to be done at the same time. You will have to consult your service manual for this part, as we do not have an FAQ writeup for that at this time.  This basically consists of removing all the bolts to the Unitrak rocker arm and tie rods ("dogbones"), pushing the bushings out (they should come out easily -- if not, get out your wallet), inspect them for wear, lube them with moly grease, and put 'em back in.
 '''Tools/supplies needed'''
-*22mm, 19mm, 17mm, 14mm, 12mm sockets and appropriate ratchet handle and/or wrenches
+*22mm, 19mm, 17mm, 14mm, 12mm sockets and appropriate ratchet handle and/or wrenches. In particular, a 19mm open-ended wrench (suspension linkage 'holder wrench') and a 17mm open-ended wrench (or low-profile socket + ratchet (brake torque link arm), a 12" extension and a 30" breaker bar or piece of iron pipe will make this job a lot easier.
 *Kerosene (or low flash point solvent)
@@ Line 17: / Line 17: @@
 *[[Torque Values|Torque Values list]]
-*Molybdenum disulfide grease (specified in the manual, but any moly bearing grease should be fine)
+*Molybdenum disulfide ("Moly") grease (any high-pressure bearing grease will do, however, a waterproof lithium grease containing molybdenum disulphide is the best choice. The factory explicitly calls for molybdenum disulphide, as it is an extremely effective additive for needle bearings in oscillating applications, and reduces wear by plating the bearing needles).
+*O-rings [note - dig up part number and size - 22mm?]. The Unitrak linkage uses a LOT of O-rings around the bushings, and it isn't that unusual to find some damaged ones on a high-miles bike, especially one with a custom rear shock with imperfect clevis fit (e.g. ZX600C or SV650 shocks).  It is absolutely imperative these O-rings are in good shape. Hence, purchasing a couple before servicing your swingarm is not a bad idea.
+This is a picture of generic wheel bearing grease, not what the factory recommends:
 [[Image:grease2.jpg|200px]] [[Image:grease.jpg|200px]]
@@ Line 26: / Line 29: @@
 [[Image:mywrencher.jpg|200px]]
-) Remove mufflers using a 12mm (header pipe) and 14mm socket (footpeg bracket) (this step can be skipped, but it makes it possible/much easier to get a torque wrench on the appropriate nuts).
+Note -- if cheap labour is unavailable, blue nitrile gloves make an excellent alternative.
+) Remove mufflers using a 12mm (header pipe) and 14mm socket (footpeg bracket). You may need to "rotate" the muffler to get it off the header. While it is off, you can also clean the chain lube off the header and muffler.  Note: The factory suggests you remove both mufflers. It is only necessary to remove the left one.
 [[Image:withoutmuffler.jpg|200px]] [[Image:withoutmuffler2.jpg|200px]]
-) Remove rear wheel ([[How can I change the tires by myself?|instructions located here]]). Make sure to tie your brake caliper out of the way and ensure there is no pressure on the hydraulic brake line.
+) Remove rear wheel ([[How can I change the tires by myself?|instructions located here]]). Make sure to tie your brake caliper out of the way and ensure there is no pressure on the hydraulic brake line. One way to keep it out of the way is to slide a long extension (or piece of threaded rod) through it and hang it through the passenger peg brackets. Make sure your chain will not lie in dirt (big piece of cardboard works well here).
 [[Image:brakeremoved.jpg|200px]] [[Image:wheelremoved.jpg|200px]]
-) Remove nut from swingarm pivot (22mm), lower shock mount (19mm) and upper tie rod arms (19mm), but do not remove the bolts/pivot shaft.
+) Remove nut from swingarm pivot (22mm), lower shock mount (19mm) and upper tie rod arms (19mm), but do not remove the bolts/pivot shaft. The easiest way to remove the 19mm nuts is to "lock" them in place with a 19mm open-ended wrench, and spin their corresponding bolt heads with a 17mm socket, extension, and breaker bar (or ratchet + piece of pipe).
 [[Image:swingarmclose.jpg|200px]] [[Image:pivotnutremoved.jpg|200px]]
-) Remove the lower shock bolt and upper tie rod bolts while holding the swingarm up.
+) Slide something under the swingarm to hold it up (like a milk crate) and remove the lower shock bolt and upper tie rod bolts.
+) Remove the swingarm pivot shaft. This comes out just like a wheel axle. An easy way to get this out is to tap it out with a long extension and rubber mallet or piece of 2x4. When the pivot comes out, the extension is in, providing support for the swingarm. Now remove the extension.
-) Support the swingarm (with your hand is fine) while removing the pivot shaft. (It helps if you push the shaft through from the left with your finger first, so you can grab the shaft and pull from the right).
+Alternatively, you can support the swingarm with your hand while removing the pivot shaft and push the shaft through from the left with your finger first, then run around the bike and grab the shaft and then pull from the right.
 ) Untangle the swingarm from the chain and shock by pulling back on the swingarm until the bottom of the shock clears the crossbrace. Then, rotate the swingarm to the right to unhook the chain and remove it. Be sure your brake lines are disconnected from the swingarm.
@@ Line 46: / Line 53: @@
 [[Image:swingarmoff.jpg|200px]]
-Remove the rubber chain guard from the swingarm, and wipe off any crud from it and the swingarm.
+Remove the rubber chain guard from the swingarm (warning: soft bolts) and wipe off any crud from it and the swingarm. If you are planning to re-paint the swingarm when you see how horrible it looks, Duplicolor silver wheel paint, available at fine Walmart stores everywhere, is a perfect match.
 ) Remove the plastic rings from either end of the pivot shaft and clean them. They pop out easily with your fingernails.
@@ Line 72: / Line 79: @@
 ) If bearings, sleeve or shaft need replacing, ''replace bearings and sleeve as a unit.''
-) If everything is okay, [[Greasing the axles & wheel bearings|pack the bearings]] with moly grease with your finger. Lightly grease the pivot sleeve and re-install through the bearings. Re-install the plastic rings after wiping any crud off of them.
+) If everything is okay, [[Greasing the axles & wheel bearings|pack the bearings]] with moly grease with your finger. Use lots of grease, there is plenty of room inside the swingarm. Lightly grease the pivot sleeve and re-install through the bearings. Re-install the plastic rings after wiping any crud off of them.
 ) Reinstall the swingarm by supporting the swingarm with one hand and feeding the pivot shaft through from the right side of the bike. Be sure the rubber chain guard is on the swingarm before doing this. It's easily forgotten, and is a major time-suck to take apart again if you forget it. Put the nut on the swingarm shaft a few turns, but do not tighten.