Painting cheaply with Rust-Oleum: Difference between revisions

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Paint inside. Seriously. There's no overspray, or fumes, or smell. Doing it in the garage was well-intentioned, but unnecessary. It was a HOT week in July. I'll wet sand in the garage, but then the parts are going into an unused room for painting and drying.
Paint inside. Seriously. There's no overspray, or fumes, or smell. Doing it in the garage was well-intentioned, but unnecessary. It was a HOT week in July. I'll wet sand in the garage, but then the parts are going into an unused room for painting and drying.
====Instructional video====
[http://www.ninja250.org/actionace actionace] put together three videos showing the Rust-Oleum process on his gas tank. To answer a few questions:
*I didn't use a clear coat, and I'm not sure if there is one compatible with the paint. I've read about clear coats lifting the Rust-Oleum and making it bubble. In the past, I've also sprayed clear coats that 'hazed' up the shine I worked very hard to create. I just buffed & polished the tank, though I am ordering some [http://www.liquidglass.com/ Liquid Glass] polish, as I've read very good things about it forming a protective clear coating.
*The painting technique will be the same for plastic fairings: Mix the paint so it's watery, rub down all the orange peel between every 2 coats, and for the final coat, make the paint a bit thicker so it isn't so easy to rub/buff through. I feel that last step is pretty important, since rubbing through the top coat will show a different, very noticeable, layer of paint (the layers don't blend together).
You can toggle to either standard or higher quality video under the video player.
[http://youtube.com/watch?v=UHGGc6DkL90 Day 1]
[http://youtube.com/watch?v=Lx4OtfsVWp4 Day 2]
[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aM2fgwiekbY&fmt=18 Day 3]