Installing an accessory fuse box: Difference between revisions
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[[Category:Electrical & Lighting]] | [[Category:Electrical & Lighting]] | ||
This is currently not visible to the general public, so make as many notations as you'd like (Ryan will have to copy and PM). My comments or questions are in '''''bold italics''''' (you're welcome :) ). | This is currently not visible to the general public, so make as many notations as you'd like (Ryan will have to copy and PM). My comments or questions are in '''''bold italics''''' (you're welcome :) ). | ||
'''''>>Ryan - Thanks!!!!! :P''''' | |||
'''''We need sourcing ideas for the Bussman.''''' | '''''We need sourcing ideas for the Bussman.''''' | ||
'''''>>Ryan - I picked up a Bussman at my local auto parts store (Autozone) for a couple of bucks as well as the bulk of the required supplies.''''' | |||
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Yes, it does, but it's not really set up for the use of accessories, or farkles, as they're often called. A new fuse box will allow you to connect other electronic bits such as GPS, radio, or heated gear and have each unit fused individually. | Yes, it does, but it's not really set up for the use of accessories, or farkles, as they're often called. A new fuse box will allow you to connect other electronic bits such as GPS, radio, or heated gear and have each unit fused individually. | ||
'''''>>Ryan - add? ...without the possibility of damaging the main fuse box.''''' | |||
====Defining terms==== | ====Defining terms==== | ||
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There are a few different types of fuse/distribution blocks. Some distribution blocks treat each attachment point as a separate entity, requiring that power be sent directly from the battery to each connection point on the block (individual circuits). The [http://www.centechwire.com/catalog/panels/ap1.shtml Centech AP1] is like this. In this case you can daisy chain (make very short connections) the power wires from one connection to the next, instead of running a wire from the battery for each. This article does not cover this type, as it's more difficult to do. | There are a few different types of fuse/distribution blocks. Some distribution blocks treat each attachment point as a separate entity, requiring that power be sent directly from the battery to each connection point on the block (individual circuits). The [http://www.centechwire.com/catalog/panels/ap1.shtml Centech AP1] is like this. In this case you can daisy chain (make very short connections) the power wires from one connection to the next, instead of running a wire from the battery for each. This article does not cover this type, as it's more difficult to do. | ||
'''''>>Ryan - At this point only refer to it as a fuse block, fuse panel, etc. to avoid confusion to the previously mentioned and non-ideal distribution block. Change sentence "...to each connection point on the block (individual circuits). The [http://www.centechwire.com/catalog/panels/ap1.shtml Centech AP1] is like this" to "to each connection point on the block (individual circuits) like the [http://www.centechwire.com/catalog/panels/ap1.shtml Centech AP1]."''''' | |||
The [http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/Fuseboxes/FB-4/fb-4.html Eastern Beaver FB-4] also works this way, but it comes in a kit with everything wired for you. This is the easiest reasonably-priced box to use if you haven't done this sort of thing before. | The [http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/Fuseboxes/FB-4/fb-4.html Eastern Beaver FB-4] also works this way, but it comes in a kit with everything wired for you. This is the easiest reasonably-priced box to use if you haven't done this sort of thing before. | ||
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Once you get all the wires in place, it's simply a matter of finding a place for the box & its relay and mounting them. As always, try to test everything before mounting, in the interest of saving time if something gets hooked up wrong. | Once you get all the wires in place, it's simply a matter of finding a place for the box & its relay and mounting them. As always, try to test everything before mounting, in the interest of saving time if something gets hooked up wrong. | ||
'''''>>Ryan - Is there any explaining necessary for "Once you get all the wires in place"? Does it need to be spelled out where to route everything? Should finding a suitable location for all components be mentioned ''before'' the wiring?''''' | |||
'''''This diagram needs a few more details; Ryan says "It could use the pins that you need to attach to and where the wires are going".''''' | '''''This diagram needs a few more details; Ryan says "It could use the pins that you need to attach to and where the wires are going".''''' | ||
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[[image:aux fuse box diagram-2.gif|150px]] | [[image:aux fuse box diagram-2.gif|150px]] | ||
'''''>>Ryan - Basically, yes. Most references have the battery power hooked directly to the 30 pin and the power to the fuse block coming from the 87 pin but it isn't "required" to do so, they can be switched like in Elmer's edited diagram. This would also better correspond to later references in this article.''''' | |||
First, wire up the relay. Do this before you install it, so you don't have to take stuff apart if it doesn't work. | First, wire up the relay. Do this before you install it, so you don't have to take stuff apart if it doesn't work. | ||
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'''(Actually I suggest something that is not important, like the license plate light, as the trigger source. If something messes up, I'd rather be down my light than down my horn)'''''Italic text'' | '''(Actually I suggest something that is not important, like the license plate light, as the trigger source. If something messes up, I'd rather be down my light than down my horn)'''''Italic text'' | ||
'''''>>Ryan - Personal preference here as I use my license plate light a lot more than my horn. If my LP light goes out I'm likely to be stopped by the police.''''' | |||
*Terminal 87 gets hooked to the main positive connector on the Bussman box. | *Terminal 87 gets hooked to the main positive connector on the Bussman box. | ||
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'''''How were these holes drilled, and what in? It looks to me like something plastic, and about 8" deep. Or were they already there? (I think that's an original question from before Michael deleted all his PMs and I gave up on this article.)''''' | '''''How were these holes drilled, and what in? It looks to me like something plastic, and about 8" deep. Or were they already there? (I think that's an original question from before Michael deleted all his PMs and I gave up on this article.)''''' | ||
'''''>>Ryan - The mounting location is on the wheel well. There is nothing on the other side to hit with a drill and you can reach around to tighten the lock nuts on that side. It would be wise to use Nylocks or something of the like and blue Loctite.''''' | |||
[[Image:buss-1.jpg|150px]] | [[Image:buss-1.jpg|150px]] | ||
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'''''Any suggestions as to where?''''' | '''''Any suggestions as to where?''''' | ||
'''''>>Ryan - In following Mike's install I put the relay just above the stock fuse box where it's close to the horn circuit, the battery and not taking up room on the other side. A simple zip-tie will suffice for mounting (the black plastic underneath is the airbox and you don't want to drill into that). If that position doesn't please you, underneath the seat is an easy location or anywhere on the bike will work. Remember that the shorter the wires the better.''''' | |||
[[image:buss-6.jpg|150px]] | [[image:buss-6.jpg|150px]] | ||
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'''''define sheath; yeah, I know what you mean, but I can't explain it.''''' | '''''define sheath; yeah, I know what you mean, but I can't explain it.''''' | ||
'''''>>Ryan - The sheath is the plastic coating covering the wire strands and is also known as "insulator".''''' | |||
[[image:buss-7.jpg|100px]] | [[image:buss-7.jpg|100px]] | ||
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'''''We still need to discuss where to run the grounds for individual accessories.''''' | '''''We still need to discuss where to run the grounds for individual accessories.''''' | ||
'''''>>Ryan - With the Bussman, all negative leads from the accessories are connected via ring terminals to the grounding post that was installed in the lower right hand corner. Two ground connections are visible in the following picture.''''' | |||
The final product. Two accessories are already hooked up, with the 5 and 10 amp fuses. Two more are pre-wired for future farkles. | The final product. Two accessories are already hooked up, with the 5 and 10 amp fuses. Two more are pre-wired for future farkles. | ||
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Make sure all the connections are connected, mounting points tightened, and you're done. Our home mechanic says, "My Bussman setup cost me about $15, including the relay, wiring and end connections. I've been very happy with it. I've had no averse weather issues with its 'open' design. The two factors that have helped make that occur are its location and the use of dielectric grease." | Make sure all the connections are connected, mounting points tightened, and you're done. Our home mechanic says, "My Bussman setup cost me about $15, including the relay, wiring and end connections. I've been very happy with it. I've had no averse weather issues with its 'open' design. The two factors that have helped make that occur are its location and the use of dielectric grease." | ||
'''''>>Ryan - maybe a nice link to the waterproofing page here (in addition to the one up top): http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Waterproofing_your_electrical_connections''''' | |||