View source for How to check the fuses

[[Category:Electrical & Lighting]]
Your fuse box, or "Junction Box" as the manual calls it, is behind the right side seat cowl. [[How do I remove the fairing, fuel tank, etc?|Remove the seat first]], and then the plastics on the right side of the bike. You should see a box that says "Fuse" on it. 

[[image:acc switched 1.jpg|150px]]
[[image:acc switched 2.jpg|150px]]

Remove the cover. It comes off really easily with hand pressure. You'll see the fuses, along with a couple spares. The 30 amp main fuse is found in the starter solenoid unit next to the fuse box. 

Use a test light to check them. It's fast and easy. However, you may be able to find a blown fuse by a visual inspection. Take out the fuse and hold it up. The metal fuse part that's inside the plastic comes in a variety of shapes, but they're all similar. You should be able to see a break in the metal. A good fuse will have a continuous piece of wire running through it. This picture shows a broken, or blown, fuse. 

[[image:blown fuse.jpg|150px]]

For more certain results, use a test light. Okay, if you don't own an automotive test light, go buy one at any auto parts store. They look kind of like a pointy screwdriver with a wire coming out of the end. One should set you back about five bucks.

[[image:test light.jpg|150px]]

*Turn all the switches on the bike to the "on" position (ignition, kill).
*Connect test light to a handy ground (brake pedal works well).
*Double check the battery and test light by tapping the test lead against the positive (red) battery terminal. It should light.
*LEAVE the fuses IN, but pull the lid to the junction box (L shaped thing under the right side cover).
*Touch the test light to each fuse terminal from the back side of the fuse. There are two terminals per fuse.
*If the light doesn't light on EITHER fuse terminal, there is something circuit-related wrong.
*If the light lights on BOTH fuse terminals, the fuse is good and the circuit has power.
*If the light lights on only one fuse terminal, the fuse is blown.

This is faster, safer and more reliable than visual inspection. You can do the whole bike in well under a minute and make no errors.

Oh: There are a couple of spare fuses in there. Obviously, they don't need to light.

==Which fuses go to what==

The following is a list of what is covered by each fuse. This is for a 2006 bike; yours should be similar, if not identical. For more detail, consult the [[Wiring schematics & diagrams|EX250 Wiring Schematic]].

Fuse No. 1 (10A) provides +12vdc via an Orange/Green conductor to: Turn Signal Relay (Flasher Unit)

Fuse No. 2 (10A) provides +12vdc via a Brown/White conductor to: Horn

Fuse No. 3 (10A) Provides +12vdc via a Brown/Blue conductor to:

*Ignition Module
*Engine Run/Stop Switch
*Water Temp Gauge (Gauge Cluster)
*Oil Pressure Indicator Lamp (Gauge Cluster)
*Neutral Position Indicator Lamp (Gauge Cluster)
*Tachometer Gauge (Gauge Cluster)

Fuse No. 4 (10A) provides +12vdc via a Red/Blue conductor to:

*License Plate Lamp
*Brake Switch - Rear
*Brake Switch - Front
*Ignition Switch
*Dash Illumination Lamps (Gauge Cluster)

Fuse No. 5 (10A) provides +12vdc via a Blue/Yellow conductor to:
Headlight Relay (Terminal 30)

Fuse No. 6 (10A) provides +12vdc via a White/Black conductor to: Auxiliary Leads - Rear and front 

Fuse No. 7 (10A) provides +12vdc via a White/Blue conductor to: Cooling Fan Switch

[[image:Ninja250 Fuse ID.jpg|150px]]