I want a new windscreen: Difference between revisions

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[[Category:Bodywork & Frame]]
[[Category:Bodywork & Frame]]
====What windscreen models are available?====
==Articles==


Two board members make custom windscreens. Both have very good feedback from board members.
[[Zero Gravity]]


[[Laminar Lip]]


'''[http://www.members.aol.com/dukestor/windshield/windshield.html Duke]'''
[[7JuRock]]


Duke makes a 16" tall Touring shield. He also has a smaller Sport model.
[[One man's DIY wind protection]]


[[How do I properly attach the windscreen to avoid breakage?]]


'''[http://members.cox.net/michealmims/mikesshields.htm gti20vturbo]'''
==About Wind noise==


Mike has three models available, from 13.5" to 18" tall.
One of the main reasons people try a different screen is to mitigate the noise of the wind coming across the screen. Here is where the noise comes from, listed from quietest to most noisy:


'''1 Fairing-protected air:''' Fairing-protected air is the most quiet, but it is difficult to keep completely in the quiet bubble of still air  (especially your head/helmet) without crouching low or going very tall on the windscreen.


[http://www.zerogravity-racing.com/sportbikes/sptbk_wscreens.htm Zero Gravity]
'''2 Clean air not stirred up by the fairing:''' Clean air is not nearly as quiet, but is easy to achieve. For many riders, sit up straight or remove the windscreen and whoomp, there it is.  


ZG makes two models that fit the 250, their stock replacement model and the Double Bubble. Both come in a wide range of colors.
'''3 Dirty air:''' Dirty air is the worst and can cause severe buffeting. Dirty air hitting the helmet is a significant source of deafening wind roar. This is often an unintentional by-product of raising the windscreen to the point where dirty air displaces clean air at helmet level.  


====How do I properly attach the windscreen to avoid breakage?====
Scale on this picture is not intended to be 100% accurate, but it gives a general idea. Different bikes have varying wind flow characteristics, different height riders sit in different positions relative to the airflow, YMMV, yadda yadda, blah blah blah.


It is important to put bolts in the center two holes first (loosely), then the two holes beside those, etc, until you've worked your way around the screen. Do not use any type of wrench; hand tighten only. Gradually tighten the centermost bolts a bit, then the next outer pair, and the next, until each pair of bolts is snug but not tight; the screen needs some slack to flex. If you tighten the bolts too quickly, in the wrong order, or too tightly, you risk cracking the screen.
[[image:air flow.jpg|250px]]

Latest revision as of 11:27, 18 November 2014

Articles

Zero Gravity

Laminar Lip

7JuRock

One man's DIY wind protection

How do I properly attach the windscreen to avoid breakage?

About Wind noise

One of the main reasons people try a different screen is to mitigate the noise of the wind coming across the screen. Here is where the noise comes from, listed from quietest to most noisy:

1 Fairing-protected air: Fairing-protected air is the most quiet, but it is difficult to keep completely in the quiet bubble of still air (especially your head/helmet) without crouching low or going very tall on the windscreen.

2 Clean air not stirred up by the fairing: Clean air is not nearly as quiet, but is easy to achieve. For many riders, sit up straight or remove the windscreen and whoomp, there it is.

3 Dirty air: Dirty air is the worst and can cause severe buffeting. Dirty air hitting the helmet is a significant source of deafening wind roar. This is often an unintentional by-product of raising the windscreen to the point where dirty air displaces clean air at helmet level.

Scale on this picture is not intended to be 100% accurate, but it gives a general idea. Different bikes have varying wind flow characteristics, different height riders sit in different positions relative to the airflow, YMMV, yadda yadda, blah blah blah.

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