I want a new windscreen: Difference between revisions

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[[Category:Bodywork & Frame]]
[[Category:Bodywork & Frame]]
===What windscreen models are available?===
==Articles==


Two board members make custom windscreens. Both have very good feedback from board members.
[[Zero Gravity]]


[[Laminar Lip]]


'''[http://www.members.aol.com/dukestor/windshield/windshield.html Duke]'''
[[7JuRock]]


Duke makes a 16" tall Touring shield. He also has a smaller Sport model. Unfortunately, he also has a full-time job and has been unable to meet all requests in recent months. Please email him to see if he can make one for you.
[[One man's DIY wind protection]]


[[How do I properly attach the windscreen to avoid breakage?]]


'''[http://members.cox.net/michealmims/mikesshields.htm gti20vturbo]'''
==About Wind noise==


Mike has three models available, from 13.5" to 18" tall. This is also a hands-on, in-his-spare-time operation, so write ahead of time for availability.
One of the main reasons people try a different screen is to mitigate the noise of the wind coming across the screen. Here is where the noise comes from, listed from quietest to most noisy:


'''1 Fairing-protected air:''' Fairing-protected air is the most quiet, but it is difficult to keep completely in the quiet bubble of still air  (especially your head/helmet) without crouching low or going very tall on the windscreen.


'''[http://www.zerogravity-racing.com/sportbikes/sptbk_wscreens.htm Zero Gravity]'''
'''2 Clean air not stirred up by the fairing:''' Clean air is not nearly as quiet, but is easy to achieve. For many riders, sit up straight or remove the windscreen and whoomp, there it is.


ZG makes two models that fit the 250, their stock replacement model and the Double Bubble. Both come in a wide range of colors. Below is a comparison of the Double Bubble and OEM screens.
'''3 Dirty air:''' Dirty air is the worst and can cause severe buffeting. Dirty air hitting the helmet is a significant source of deafening wind roar. This is often an unintentional by-product of raising the windscreen to the point where dirty air displaces clean air at helmet level.  


[[Image:zg_windscreen_comparison.jpg|100px]]
Scale on this picture is not intended to be 100% accurate, but it gives a general idea. Different bikes have varying wind flow characteristics, different height riders sit in different positions relative to the airflow, YMMV, yadda yadda, blah blah blah.


 
[[image:air flow.jpg|250px]]
'''[http://www.laminarlip.com/ Laminar Lip]'''
 
A Laminar Lip is a bit of plastic that directs the wind higher than your stock windscreen does. Here is [http://www.laminarlip.com/howwork.php Laminar's explanation] of how it works. They do make a couple models for the [http://www.laminarlip.com/ex250.php OEM windscreen]. If you have one of the taller non-stock windscreens you'll have to get one of the universal Lip models and make it fit.
 
'''Opinion:''' In a word, WOW. Got the 14" cruiser style. Very pricey at $95 for what is basically just a little chunk of plexiglass. OTOH, the design is brilliant and the difference in wind noise is amazing. In my particular setup, it makes a way bigger difference than earplugs. I put the 14" Cruiser on an 18" wide x 24" tall tombstone-style windscreen I made. The 14" Cruiser is a general size / shape. Though it does have a little more curve than my windshield (the top of my screen is a little flatter) it still works nicely. The 14" looks like it might work with the Duke / Mike style screen as well.
 
Shot showing model #K1126S on an OEM Ninja screen.
 
[[image:K1126S laminar.jpg|100px]]
 
 
'''[http://powersports.honda.com/scooters/ Honda NSS250 Honda Reflex] windshield mod, developed by [http://www.ninja250.org/blk95 blk95]'''
 
[[Image:reflex01.jpg|90px]] [[Image:reflex02.jpg|70px]] [[Image:reflex03.jpg|80px]]
 
I had to cut off four original mounting tabs of plastic with a Dremel tool. It then fit right on the fairing, and with a little pressure I could mark where to drill the holes for the mounting screws. I used rubber well nuts. Interestingly, there are already two cutouts in the shield that the levers fit into when you turn hard left or right.
 
===How do I properly attach the windscreen to avoid breakage?===
 
It is important to put bolts in the center two holes first (loosely), then the two holes beside those, etc, until you've worked your way around the screen. Do not use any type of wrench; hand tighten only. Gradually tighten the centermost bolts a bit, then the next outer pair, and the next, until each pair of bolts is snug but not tight; the screen needs some slack to flex. If you tighten the bolts too quickly, in the wrong order, or too tightly, you risk cracking the screen.

Latest revision as of 11:27, 18 November 2014

Articles

Zero Gravity

Laminar Lip

7JuRock

One man's DIY wind protection

How do I properly attach the windscreen to avoid breakage?

About Wind noise

One of the main reasons people try a different screen is to mitigate the noise of the wind coming across the screen. Here is where the noise comes from, listed from quietest to most noisy:

1 Fairing-protected air: Fairing-protected air is the most quiet, but it is difficult to keep completely in the quiet bubble of still air (especially your head/helmet) without crouching low or going very tall on the windscreen.

2 Clean air not stirred up by the fairing: Clean air is not nearly as quiet, but is easy to achieve. For many riders, sit up straight or remove the windscreen and whoomp, there it is.

3 Dirty air: Dirty air is the worst and can cause severe buffeting. Dirty air hitting the helmet is a significant source of deafening wind roar. This is often an unintentional by-product of raising the windscreen to the point where dirty air displaces clean air at helmet level.

Scale on this picture is not intended to be 100% accurate, but it gives a general idea. Different bikes have varying wind flow characteristics, different height riders sit in different positions relative to the airflow, YMMV, yadda yadda, blah blah blah.