J model oil change: Difference between revisions
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[[Category: EX250J Info]] | [[Category: EX250J Info]] | ||
This article covers changing the oil in the 08--> | This article covers changing the oil in the 08--> EX250J model. It would be in your best interest to read the articles in the [[Engine Oil|Engine Oil]] section of the FAQ, particularly the ones related to oil changing in the older F model. The procedures for the two bikes are almost the same. | ||
The first difference from the standard oil change is using the sidestand, as there is no centerstand on the newer model. If you have a rear stand you can use that, but the crankcase drains just fine while on the sidestand. | The first difference from the standard oil change is using the sidestand, as there is no centerstand on the newer model. If you have a rear stand you can use that, but the crankcase drains just fine while on the sidestand. | ||
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[[image:oil_drain_04.jpg|150px]] | [[image:oil_drain_04.jpg|150px]] | ||
The vertical position gives very little room to loosen the bolt. Use a [[What should a good set of tools include?|breaker bar]] and get good leverage away from the concrete and lower shock linkage | The vertical position gives very little room to loosen the bolt. Use a [[What should a good set of tools include?|breaker bar]] and get good leverage away from the concrete and lower shock linkage, otherwise you may remove large amounts of skin from your left pinky and middle finger knuckles... (Don't ask how we know.) Don't use your torque wrench to loosen bolts. It's only for checking the tension when you replace them. | ||
[[image:oil_change_022408_01.jpg| | [[image:oil_change_022408_01.jpg|90px]] | ||
[[image:oil_change_022408_02.jpg| | [[image:oil_change_022408_02.jpg|90px]] | ||
After the oil drains from the drain plug, replace it and torque it to 14.5 ft/lbs. You '''HAVE TO''' use a [[A beginner's guide to maintenance tools|torque wrench]]. As with the classic, you can reuse the crush washer, but a new one is very cheap insurance. Remove the oil filter cover and remove the oil filter. Check the filter for debris. | After the oil drains from the drain plug, replace it and torque it to 14.5 ft/lbs. You '''HAVE TO''' use a [[A beginner's guide to maintenance tools|torque wrench]]. As with the classic, you can reuse the crush washer, but a new one is very cheap insurance. Remove the oil filter cover and remove the oil filter. Check the filter for debris. | ||
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Put in the new oil filter. This is the [[Oil Filters|same filter]] as the one on the classic. Check that all the parts for the filter assembly are in the [[Oil Change Procedure|right order]], especially the washer (part #92022 below). Here's the diagram: | Put in the new oil filter. This is the [[Oil Filters|same filter]] as the one on the classic. Check that all the parts for the filter assembly are in the [[Oil Change Procedure|right order]], especially the washer (part #92022 below). Here's the diagram: | ||
[[image:Oil filter assembly.jpg| | [[image:Oil filter assembly.jpg|100px]] | ||
Put a fine bead of oil on the rubber gaskets. Torque the cover to 14.5 ft/lbs. | Put a fine bead of oil on the rubber gaskets. Torque the cover to 14.5 ft/lbs. | ||
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'''Make sure you check the oil level on a flat surface, with 250R off the sidestand & fully upright.''' | '''Make sure you check the oil level on a flat surface, with 250R off the sidestand & fully upright.''' | ||
[[image:oil_change_022408_05-2.jpg| | [[image:oil_change_022408_05-2.jpg|90px]] | ||
[[image:Sight glass-6-2.jpg|150px]] | [[image:Sight glass-6-2.jpg|150px]] | ||
Run the engine for a minute or so and check for leaks. Check your oil religiously. | Run the engine for a minute or so and check for leaks. Check your oil religiously. | ||
Revision as of 05:45, 21 March 2009
This article covers changing the oil in the 08--> EX250J model. It would be in your best interest to read the articles in the Engine Oil section of the FAQ, particularly the ones related to oil changing in the older F model. The procedures for the two bikes are almost the same.
The first difference from the standard oil change is using the sidestand, as there is no centerstand on the newer model. If you have a rear stand you can use that, but the crankcase drains just fine while on the sidestand.
The 'old' drain plug is still there, but is now not used. The oil filter assembly is a carry-over from the previous model.
The 'new' oil drain plug is now part of the oil strainer assembly. The drain plug and crush washer are identical to the 'old' drain plug and crush washer. Also, the drain plug is now vertical instead of horizontal, and it faces slightly downward with the sidestand down.
The vertical position gives very little room to loosen the bolt. Use a breaker bar and get good leverage away from the concrete and lower shock linkage, otherwise you may remove large amounts of skin from your left pinky and middle finger knuckles... (Don't ask how we know.) Don't use your torque wrench to loosen bolts. It's only for checking the tension when you replace them.
After the oil drains from the drain plug, replace it and torque it to 14.5 ft/lbs. You HAVE TO use a torque wrench. As with the classic, you can reuse the crush washer, but a new one is very cheap insurance. Remove the oil filter cover and remove the oil filter. Check the filter for debris.
Put in the new oil filter. This is the same filter as the one on the classic. Check that all the parts for the filter assembly are in the right order, especially the washer (part #92022 below). Here's the diagram:
Put a fine bead of oil on the rubber gaskets. Torque the cover to 14.5 ft/lbs.
Next step is to add oil. The '08 uses 1.7 quarts with a filter change, but you don't want to start off pouring that much in there. Fill it up 2/3 to 3/4 of the way and run the engine for 15+ seconds. Then, shut off the engine and wait several minutes for the oil to drain down. Check the oil level, and then begin adding as necessary. You may have to repeat these steps several times. Take your time and make sure you get the oil level correct. You don't want to overfill or underfill it. The oil should be at least halfway between the lower and the upper marks on the sight glass.
Make sure you check the oil level on a flat surface, with 250R off the sidestand & fully upright.
Run the engine for a minute or so and check for leaks. Check your oil religiously.
